20 Most Recent 1995 Suzuki LS 650 Savage - Page 4 Questions & Answers

First you want to degrease and clean all the oil off. Then you should be able to see exactly where it is coming from after a short ride have a look. That is the only way to really tell. The head gaskit is visable, between the cylinder and the head, lower down than the valve cover. If you see oil on your valve cover first, then it is the valve cover, not the head gaskit.

Hi and welcome to the site,

Initially, have the battery externally checked, re-charged and load-tested. Thereafter check the charging system by measuring the battery voltage at idle and at 3000RPM. There should be a significant rise in voltage, say 12.5 to 14.5 volts.

Offhand, if the bike has not been used for some time, it would be to your advantage to clean the fuel delivery system from the tank, filter, petc0ck , carbs with special attention to the buildup of varnish-like filming and sediments on the carb bowls.

Good luck and thank you for asking.

do u mean gas as in petrol??if it is petrol...then its leaking from the carbs..as this id the overflow pipe!!..if thats the case..then it sounds like the carbs may need cleaning. as they may be some muck in there thats stoping the floats from shuting.(carnt shut so overflows!!) this could make the bike backfire as still petrol going to engine when carbs shut so backsfire..or the back fire could be from the new exhaust .if its not seal'ed right on the manifolds it sucks air in & can make them pop & backfire when you shut the throttle(like when u shut throttle when coming up to a stop)....hope this helps...Howard

Backfiring is usually a symptom of the engine burning too lean. A vacuum hose is not usually the cause of this problem so don't fiddle with the vacuum hose...yet. We need to establish whether the engine is running lean, normal, or rich. The easiest way to tell is to pull a spark plug and examine the electrode. If the engine is lean, the electrode will have a light-brownish color; if normal, the electrode will be black but not sooty; if rich, the elecrode will be black,sooty and most likely wet (excess fuel).

If the plug shows signs of lean burn, you can adjust the a/f screw to increase the amount of fuel. Conversely if the plug shows signs of rich burn, you can adjust the a/f screw to decrease the amount of fuel. Typically, on a stock carb, the a/f screw is at the bottom of the carb and requires a special tool to adjust it.

My recommendation to you is to take your bike to a good indie (independent) bike shop and have them take a look at it. Unless you have been wrenching on bikes for at least 5 years, that is the best course of action. Typically, if you do not know what an a/f screw is, you need to go to a shop.

these bikes have a neutral switch also a side stand switch make sure these are working and not allowing the bike start either could need adjusting,,maybe you starter is sticking, you could by pass the switch at the starter and see if it turns over from there..

These are external cams right... Keep turning same direction and it will tighten spring again...If you drop past the highest point in spring tension you can only turn it one way to increase tension again...

This could be a timing issue. I would remove the ignition/points cover and check for freedom of movement in the timing advance mechanism. A timing light will determine proper action. Shine on timing marks and rev engine. Mark such as "F" will move as engine is reved and some other marks such as "| |" will line up with timing mark.

If removing points/timing plate, mark plate position and where points wires go and remove points/plate/condensers as a unit. Test mechanism by twisting cam the points ride on. It needs to turn easily about 1/8 turn on its shaft. Look for free movement against spring tension and returns quickly when released.

If you disassemble advance mechanism, note cam position in relation to points. It can be assembled 180 deg out and not run. It must be free of grease and lubricants to work properly. Be prepared to adjust timing after reassembly.

It could also be carburator. The idle jets are seperate from the main jets and if they're cloged , the bike will idle but not rev. Cleaning the carbs can be done at home too. Refer to service manual because of the difficulty level.

Have a great day!

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....

You can't, the computerized system is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do, Steal the bike without the correct credentials. You can't reprogram or over-ride the computer. You need a bike electrician.

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The crank case will be almost as hot as the oil flowing around the engine, lubricating the bearings.

Thinking you meant Raider and not 'rider', and this is a Suzuki motorcycle and should not be in Cars and Trucks category. Edited and moved. https://www.google.com/search?q=raider+150+carb+tensioner

The air/fuel mixture screw on a Suzuki VS800 Intruder is typically located on the carburetor. To adjust the air/fuel mixture, you'll need to locate the carburetor and look for a small screw that can be turned. Keep in mind that the exact location of the screw may vary slightly depending on the model year and specific carburetor version on your VS800 Intruder. Generally, it is located on the bottom or side of the carburetor. Here are the general steps to locate and adjust the air/fuel mixture screw: 1. Locate the Carburetor: The carburetor is usually positioned on the side or underside of the engine. Follow the intake manifold or air filter housing to find the carburetor. 2. Identify the Air/Fuel Screw: Look for a small screw on the carburetor. This screw is typically flat-headed and may be recessed. It is often located near the bottom of the carburetor. 3.Adjustment: With the engine running at idle, use a screwdriver to turn the air/fuel mixture screw. Turning it clockwise (in) usually leans out the mixture, while turning it counterclockwise (out) enriches the mixture. 4. Listen to the Engine: As you make adjustments, listen to the engine's sound. The goal is to find the point where the engine runs smoothly and the idle is stable. 5. Fine-Tune: Make small adjustments and give the engine a moment to respond before making further changes. It's a process of trial and error to find the optimal setting. 6. Check the Owner's Manual: Refer to your motorcycle's owner's manual for specific guidance on the location and adjustment of the air/fuel mixture screw. The manual will provide information tailored to your bike's make and model. If you're uncomfortable making these adjustments yourself or if you're unsure about the location of the screw, it's advisable to consult a professional mechanic or refer to the specific service manual for your Suzuki VS800 Intruder.

Question edited for a lot more clarity. BTW it isn't a Moped because it doesn't have pedals 'Motorised and Pedal operated - 'mo ped'. It is a Scooter. Here is your service manual. Check all connectors for corrosion, check fuses and grounds on the lights. It may be a voltage rectifier issue. Probably need a good electrician.

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f your 2005 Suzuki 250 is refusing to start even after replacing the kickstarter and battery, there could be several other potential issues to consider. Here are some troubleshooting steps to help you diagnose and resolve the problem:

1. Check the Fuel: Ensure that your motorcycle has an adequate supply of fuel in the tank. Sometimes, an empty tank or a clogged fuel filter can prevent the engine from starting.
2. Inspect the Spark Plug: A fouled or damaged spark plug can hinder ignition. Remove the spark plug, inspect it for fouling, and replace it if necessary. Also, check the spark plug wire for any damage or loose connections.
3. Examine the Air Filter: A dirty or clogged air filter can restrict airflow and affect engine performance. Inspect the air filter, and if it's dirty, clean or replace it.
4. Verify the Ignition System: Ensure that the ignition system is functioning correctly. Check for spark by removing the spark plug, grounding it against the engine, and cranking the engine while observing for a spark. If there's no spark, the ignition system may need attention.
5. Inspect the Carburetor: A malfunctioning carburetor can cause starting issues. Check for clogs, blockages, or a stuck float valve. Cleaning or rebuilding the carburetor may be necessary.
6. Verify the Fuel System: Ensure that fuel is reaching the carburetor. Check for fuel flow by disconnecting the fuel line at the carburetor and cranking the engine briefly. Fuel should flow from the line.
7. Compression Test: Low compression can also prevent the engine from starting. Perform a compression test to check the engine's compression levels. If compression is low, it may indicate internal engine problems that require professional attention.
8. Electrical Connections: Ensure that all electrical connections are secure, including those to the starter motor and solenoid. Loose or corroded connections can prevent the starter from engaging.
9. Safety Switches: Some motorcycles have safety switches like a kickstand switch or a clutch lever switch. Ensure that these switches are not preventing the bike from starting when they shouldn't be.
10. Professional Inspection: If you've checked all of the above and still can't identify the issue, it may be best to have a qualified motorcycle mechanic or technician inspect your bike. They have the expertise and tools to diagnose and fix more complex problems.

Usually in the same direction as you kick start. What are you trying to do? Service Manual https://www.carlsalter.com/mcpdf/Suzuki%20Dr250_Dr-250_Sp250_1982-1985_Service_Repair_Manual.pdf https://www.google.com/search?q=1985+suzuki+sp+250 ..

If it runs on starter fluid that means it's not a spark issue. This is most likely a fuel starvation problem. You need to start at the tank and work all the way through the fuel system all the way to the cylinder. If your getting fuel at the filter go to the next part in the system and check for fuel from that point. When was the Carburettor last serviced? A dirty/worn jet or a dirty/worn float needle can cause issues. Try this. Don't use starter fluid. Spin the engine over for 2 to 3 seconds. Turn the Ignition Off. Remove a spark plug and look at it. Your checking to see if it's wet with fuel. Giving it a sniff sometimes helps. Refit that plug and repeat this for the other cylinder. If they are wet the engine is getting fuel. Check your air filter. You'll be surprised how much trouble a dirty one can cause. If these all check out OK check the fuel pump relay. If it's faulty it won't turn on the fuel pump when you try to start the bike.