20 Most Recent 1995 Suzuki GSX-R 750 WS Questions & Answers

It depends on the temperature, how much hardener used and thinner speed. Touch it lightly on a hidden area with a toothpick or something to test, or spray a small test piece for testing during your shoot. Usually min 4 hours recommended for wetsanding, I use a drop or 2 of dish soap in a water spray bottle to prevent ball up on the 600 grit sandpaper. Don't press too hard, let the sandpaper do the work.

You didn\'t say what kind of exhaust you have on the bike, but if it\'s some sort of aftermarket pipe, like a Yoshi, you may want to check the baffles for carbon buildup.I would be least suspicious of your clutch and more wary of something in the food chain. i.e. Start with possible bad gas (did you drain last years gunk outta there?.....fuel tap clean out (it doesn\'t take much to plug those small holes)....air filters....etc.I\'m not sure if your bike is injected or carburetor, but, either way, it wouldn\'t hurt to run a half a can of the appropriate "cleaner" through the tank.Try these tips first. Like I said, it\'s waaaay more likely to do with air or fuel than mechanical stuff like a clutch. Good luck!

Sounds like your carbs floats are out of adjustment or you may have water in your carbs from bad gas. When you come to a stop, the pick up may be pulling the water into the main jet, causing the stumble.There is a screw at the bottom of each carb that can be reached with a long screwdriver. Make sure you use a screwdriver that fit the screw snuggly and DON'T use a cheap screwdriver as the screws themselves are fairly soft and you will strip the head out if the driver slips in the head of the screw. Bike must be on fairly level ground when you drain the carbs (all 4) and make sure that it's gas running out and not water.Also, MAKE SURE to do this with a cool engine unless you really don't want the bike anymore . I have personally seen guys drain the carbs onto a hot motor and then watch them run around frantically trying to find something to put out the fire. Let me know if it helps.

most likely problem will be the slow speed idle jets and airway's. you can try stripping and cleaning with a good quality carb cleaner and a compressor to blow through the jets, but this does not always work as modern fuels tend gum up really quick, the best way to get them clean is to have them sonically cleaned, i would also buy a service kit for each carb and reset the floats to spec and possible add a dynojet kit and new set of spark plugs,( some new coil packs would also give it a new lease of life)

Be warned .. Do not tamper with or adjust the air screws on the bottom of the carbs as these are set from the factory are carry no standard settings although if you have then screw them in till they stop then unscrew them out 1 1/2 turns, this isn't ideal but is as close as your gonna get them without the right equipment.
Sounds more like your sucking in extra air from somewhere, with the bike running try spraying brake cleaner (careful as its flamable so dont go wild with it) or WD40 around the carb/ inlet rubber area to see if the engine note changes, if so try and pinpoint where the leak is and seal it.
If all of your plugs are sooting up have you had a camchain fitted recently as it sounds like your timing may a tooth out or is the tensioner that worn that it's altering the timing or is it the correct plugs? or try going one (only one) number down on the plugs as this is slightly hotter, think you run cr9e's in that try 8's if available.
Hope this helps

change the spark plugs 1st....

pull front sprocket gear , buffer installs behind gear

definitely a carb. issue......before taking it off and cleaning it try running some seafoam through (sold at advance, autozone etc) the tank.....sounds like the jets are a little clogged

check the vavle clearances sounds like they may need adjusting

Try this > Google motorcycle salvage suzuki and see what you can find. I will give you a web site where you can get new OEM parts for your bike. If the "Pod" is what I think it is ( a box ), they don't have one. But for future reference this is a really great site.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

if there is an adjustment then it would be right there at the top of the larger side of the forks. you would hold it in place and turn the nut below it to the numbered setting for it. now i dont think there is one on there so you would have to get the drag forks or the fork rebuild kit to change it to drag spec.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Almost always, if you would follow the big red cable from the battery's + terminal, it would go to one terminal of the starter relay. The other terminal of this relay would then go to the starter motor. It would look something like the image below.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

You need to make sure master cyl clean possibly needs new seals or master cyl,but try this remove pads keep pumping cyl so that pistons come out further place some wood or plastic between disc and pistons thinner than your pads that should stop your pistons coming out and will allow more fluid into the caliper,then press the pistons back to return fluid back up pipe to pressurise valve good luck it may not work first time just keep pumping .

a simple tune up should fix this...plugs and filters.

Had the same problem. There is a green plug in the wire harness situated under the tank on the left hand side of the frame. This plug tends to pick up corrotion. Try to unplug the two parts, if you have difficulty to unplug it this might just be your problem. Replacing the plug is the only solution. This plug connects the wiring from the light switch, to the lights. If you have difficulty tracing this plug, trace the wires back from the light switch on the handle bars.

the 3M protective film works really well, I have it on the nose of my GTI. It will add some sheen, but I highly reccomend it

Those voltage numbers are horrible. Just sitting on your workbench, the battery should read at least 12.8 volts. And without the gear turned on, the voltage at idle should be above 14 volts. I have a hunch you're going to find the voltage regulator and/or bad connections in the brown coupler are the culprit, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check the alternator. Unplug the brown coupler, set your meter to read AC volts and probe any two of the yellow wires in the harness side of the coupler. Rev the engine to 4000 rpm and you should see at least 60 volts AC. If you consider the three yellow wires to be A, B, and C, you'll need to perform this test on the pairs A-B, A-C, and B-C. Good luck.

sounds like your valve seals are burnt up and you are getting back oil pressure through your carb. Get ready to tear it down and rebuild it.

There is no easy way of testing a CDI completely, best thing to do is to check the spark plugs are sparking by removing them from bike and holding them against frame to earth (still connected to coils), crank bike over and check for a fat blue spark. Be warned, DO NOT hold with bare hands as you will get a electric shock!! This will give you an indication that the CDI is working.