Hi, Chris before diagnosing any brake light issue always check the bulb and fuse first for integrity a brake light staying on is usually caused by the front brake light switch, which is mechanical, not disengaging. On early models moving the throttle control housing closer to the front brake master cylinder is the main fix. On late models, the switch gets tweaked and needs to be realigned. A brake light that does not come on when the brake lever is applied can be caused by a faulty switch or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. The rear brake light switch is hydraulic and it is extremely rare to malfunction in a closed circuit condition causing the brake light to stay on. Usually, rear brake light switch issues are caused by no brake pedal free play or a sticky rear master cylinder piston. A brake light that does not come on when the rear brake pedal is depressed can be caused by a faulty switch, air contamination in the brake line, or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. Finally, most tail light wiring harnesses run under the rear fender held in place by spot welded clips. Worn out rear shocks or lowered suspension can bottom out causing the rear tire to come in contact with the wiring harness, rubbing the insulation off, exposing the bare metal inner core, allowing it to break or short out.
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Hi, Mathewkaras belt squeaking or chirping or buzzing or zinging are sounds that make up the orchestra of "Belt Music" these noises are caused by a variety of conditions that can usually be corrected ie. belt tension too loose, swing arm alignment no true, warped or loose sprockets and bent sprocket guards, but the majority of music is mainly caused by miles and miles of heat build-up from the engine, transmission, and sprockets transferring that heat to the drive belt, and over time the sides of the belt will become crystallized/glazed into a finish that is harder than "Chicken Lips" and everyone knows that "Chicken Lips" are harder than diamonds. This is the reason your brakes squeak. There are many home remedies out there, fan belt spray, rubbing a bar of soap on the sides, Dupont Teflon Lubricant, grease, silicone spray, WD-40 etc. etc. these are no more than Band-Aids and the noise just comes back in a couple of days, You must remove the "Chicken Lips" The first and most important thing you can do are align the belt in the sprockets so that it tracks dead center not rubbing up against the sprocket guard this may require using shims on the front and rear sprockets, while the belt is off, check the teeth for being broken-cracked-missing, check the sprockets for having square teeth instead of rounded teeth, if any of these conditions exist, replace the belt and both sprockets. If everything looks ok then place the belt on its side and with a drill or die grinder install a 2-3 inch velcro sanding pad with a Scotch Brite disc, gently dust both sides of the belt to remove the shiny crystallized glaze the surface will become dull once the fresh material is exposed. Reinstall the shimmed sprockets and reconditioned belt and adjust the tension with no rider on board to 5/16-3/8" up and down with 10lbs. of force, I have had excellent results with this method and it is cheaper than buying a $300 new belt. Again the key to this procedure is "BELT ALIGNMENT" you need to keep the sides of the belt away from the sprocket guards.
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knocking increases with engine speed ...check for worn wrist pin to piston clearance,rod bottom bearing clearance, very unlikely the timing chain has any kinks with a chain tensioner set properly...a loose chain could make some noise so check the tension setting