20 Most Recent 1996 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder - Page 4 Questions & Answers


Sounds like an in-line fusable link. Check manual or car dealer and ask for location. If you find it, use a test light to check for voltage on both sides of link.

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Jul 11, 2013


turn your fuel tank petcock to 'reserve'.
the fuel is fed thru a vacuum valve (opens to allow fuel to pass when running or turning over). fuel is delivered via gravity otherwise (tank is higher than the carbs).

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Apr 21, 2013


i took a look for you there really arent any diagrams online, the timing chain replacement on that engine is very difficult and requires a few special tools only available through Suzuki...your best bet is to buy the factory manual, and the tools. Doing it yourself will only save you about $200.00, because of the cost of the tools required

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Dec 03, 2012


sounds if you have a burnt valve/s somewhere

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Dec 03, 2012


should be hydraulic... there is no adjustments to make. make sure there's no air in the line.

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Jul 25, 2012


Check the sidestand switch and the clutch switch. Both of these will give the same problem.

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Jun 28, 2012


Start with inspecting the clutch handle for any obstructions or rust.
Lubricate the clutch cable at the handle.
Follow the cable down and look for and pinching or damage.If you can follow the end of the cable to the actuall clutch mecaniism, inspect the area for clearance.
If you can disconnect the cable from the clutch mecanisim and test the clutch handle to see if the cable moves freely.
Manually try to engange an clucth with the engine off.
If it won't move, time to diassemble the clutch.

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Apr 07, 2012


it would turn into an overdrive gear--a whole new 5 sp box is probly the answer--theres more shifting in traffic--to me 4 is enough-thats all olschool bikes had---------youd have to git with a customizer-there found in drag mags or online

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Oct 18, 2011


if out of time the front cylinder would do the same thing
Replace the spark plug first and try again to see the results

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Sep 11, 2011


Locate rectifier, check condition of the wires at the block connector, externaly as well as internaly pull them gently with pliers they sometimes become corroded at this block, causing problems like yours, also check the condition of the silicone backing to the rear of the unit for damage such as burning such damage will require renewing the unit, damage here can be caused by running the machine with a discharged battery for a prolonged period, as can a short circuit in the alternator, which is not un common

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Aug 28, 2011


batt cables may hav corrode from wash or moisture cudda gut in the ign switch--chec it and let dry

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Aug 10, 2011


Replace statter or voltage reglater MOPAR KENNY

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on May 22, 2011


It is under the carbs on the top of the engine case.

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on May 18, 2011


G'day. I can definatly help you with this.This is a problem I have come across many many times in my career as a motorcycle mechanic.It is a very common problem for bikes that have been sitting around for a while.What has happened is that all the clutch plates are stuck together. There are two ways to rectify this problem.One is to remove the clutch cover, remove the clutch springs,then the plates-noting the order- clean, re-lubricate & re-assemble.
The other way- which I have sucessfully used in 98% of cases is to start the bike in neutral,chock the front wheel- I position the bike with the front wheel against a brick wall or good size tree for a dirt bike,hold on the front brake tightly,rev the engine & hold at about 2000 rpm,click it into 2nd gear.CAUTION- The bike may jump forward &/or stall(get some friends/helpers on each side as "catchers" if your not too confident) Try this a couple of times if necessary & it usually works. Also you could try riding the bike with some front brake applied whilst pulling the clutch lever in & out several times.(This seperates the pressure plates whilst the clutch basket is spinning & can let the oil acess the fibre & steel plates whilst there not under pressure).
I hope this helps you.
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on May 04, 2011


Under the fuel tank

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Apr 23, 2011


Most commonly the flasher relay, cheap to replace, just plugs in, available at most bike repair shops and some motor factors.
To verify it is the relay, locate it, check it's connector plug isn't green and corroded, and if it is of the two pin type, a short piece of wire bridging the two connecting wires should illuminate the indicators, (ignition=on, and turn signal switch pressed, naturally,
Hope this helps

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 25, 2011


That could be the spark plugs causing the run on. The rear piston runs hotter because it is heated by the front one, so try a cooler plug.

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 06, 2011


The Bike Technicians Tactic

Phase1

An electrical inspection on the bike should produce results. First, the bike battery powers the entire lightening systems mentionable as ignition, meter readings, head lamps, signal indicators. However, the battery provides the power supply to several entities though also significant is the fuse box containing circuit protection coils. Inserting the bike key into the ignition to perform start mode displays the capacity power circuits. A charged battery should display an indication in the meter reading area also known as bike dashboard grading. A malfunctioning start mode on inserting key in ignition may be traceable several locations on the electrical circuits. Attempting to repair the electrical power of the bike usually requires batter power power test kit. The test kit ascertains the battery power making possible progress to the remaining electrical circuits. Test kit also ascertains the fuse box circuit functionality either with fuses still intact or extracted allowing for the next progress level. An observation tour of the bikes electrical wiring kits from battery hold through fuse box compartments to each lightening display area either headlamps, indicators, and meter reading should produce results of any visible damages that may require repairs after the electrical inspection has been performed. Once any faults were observed on the electrical channels, repair mode is the next level. A dull battery either may have been depleted completely of durational capacity requiring another for replacement. Alternately, a depleted power supply due to prolonged storage may require charge functionalities. Usually, a device capacapble of restoring a battery of electrolytes is resorted for charger ability. The type of battery may require constuents either liquid cathode replenishment in the battery entrapment area prior to charging feature is assumed with electrolyte machine. Once the battery has regained full functionality makes way the next repair task. The fuse box may have simply required replacement fuses either as missing or burnt out. A fuse box usually contains additional spare for replacement functionalities. An alternate arrangement at acquiring fuses on the auto mart may replace the burnt devices. The next electrical task is wiring fixtures achievable by mending broken cords with appropriate electrician's tapes else malfunctions may remain. Alternately, a worn-out electrical wire is replaceable by acquiring the entire extension lengthwise between significant areas. The last remaining electrical units are lightening indicators consisting of bulbs or luminescent displays reflectors. Observe the blub areas either by loosening covers to inspect for observable burnouts else the entire electrical circuitry is ready for functionality observations with separate entities.

Engine Technicians Tactic

PHASE 2

A bike engine inspection includes observation for indications of malfunction. Any fluid residue is indication of problem areas. Where oil leaks usually requires engine block inspections. A bike engine consists of an entrapment compartment where mechanical combustion takes place. First, the entire observable block consists of an external coating known as engine bloc housing internal component of pistons, rings, and fastens known as cylinder heads. A bike engine has every component embedded within requiring technical expertise to achieve an inspection. Once deciding on the engine task requirements, acquire a tool box with the appropriate componements as first requirement before engine works is commence able. Second, the bike may require an area environment as workshop requirement to attain engine inspections. Third, bike engine are least bulky compared with vehicle engines however assistance would complement the inspection phase. Prior to inspecting the bike engine, a strap mechanism has to be assumed to achieve expert maneuverability also as safe precaution. Unless parts hinder maneuverability at engine locations, the only removable components should be the engine. First, start with disjointing the spark plug cables to acquire accessibility to plugs imbedded on the cylinder heads. The plugs require tools to loosen thereby exposing the combustible area. Once the spark plugs are exposed, two alternatives are likely. First, a spark plug may have gathered rust residue only requiring cleaning to attain regular capacity. The pin area of the spark plug may have been twisted due to overheating and slight melting dislocation. Usually cleaning the residue from old plugs may simply expose the ignitable capacities. However, an observation of twisted plug pin may require twisting back in place to achieve full ignitability once bike engine starts. A bike engine bloc has the pistons as combustibles or blasters of fuel gasoline. The rings perform as strap fasteners whenever the pistons move about combustibility. Usually, the engine entrapment components would have collected residue requiring clearing. Also, pistons together with rings may require replacements either as worn-out due to prolongs tasks or overexerted biker features.

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 05, 2011


As you mentioned,clutch replaced and all plates are in order.Still it needs to be checked,to confirm:--- First of all check,Does the clutch lever release "sharply" and snap back after engagement? then lean bike over drain about a quart of oil, take off access cover to clutch and check to see if you have any broken clutch springs or loose spring.If thats looks o.k. you"ll probably need to remove clutch plates and readjust.To confirm this give a real quick check when you ride the bike smell the oil, does it smell burnt? if it does, the plates are probably no good or out of its alignment. -------------- Also try re adjusting the clutch.To do this loosen the clutch adjusting jam nut and turn the adj screw clockwise until the bike bearly starts to creep forward, then back off the screw 1/4 turn, tighten jam nut and then check.Also check for any clutch oil/fluid leak.If noticed then it can be the problem.---------- Motorcycle engines do not do well using synthetic oil, or oils with "special" additives or "friction reducers". Drain whatever is in the gearbox and refill with 10w40 motor oil. helpmech_17.gif
------------ This troubleshooting should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Feb 10, 2011


yes-not having a service manual for details--go clymer or another author on the web

1996 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Feb 10, 2011

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