20 Most Recent 1999 Suzuki VZ 800 Marauder - Page 2 Questions & Answers

I had the same problem with my 1997 marauder the only way i have found to make them work is to hook up the LED signal lights into the stock signal lights i know it sounds crazy but what i have figured out is that it uses the stock bulbs like a fuse. all you have to do is take the headlight out just like you did when you wired in the LED lights and wire in your stock bulbs along with the LED lights once you have done this put the stock bulbs in the headlight assembly and put the headlight back in this should fix your problem at least it worked for me let me know if it works for you as well good luck

Hi
To access the location first you will have to remove the gas tank and then remove the covers, located on each side near the front of the engine. After that loosen the tank at the back by undoing the two bolts that double as seat brackets, once you've done that you can lift it up enough to gain access but it will slip off backwards if you undo the gas tap and release the breather pipe under the tank aswell, the tank is held in place by two rubber bungs at the front that slip into two locating grooves on the tank,, slip off backwards and slips back on forwards,,you wil need long reach sparkplug sockets,, and when putting them back in finger tight them first to make sure it's placed properly.

Please get back to us if you have further query or else please accept the solution.
Thanks for contacting fixya.com

It sounds like you have a dead short. Thank god for the fuse, or your bike wood burn. Immiediatly disconect the battery and remove it ! Than visually inspect battery leads, than progress to the ignition circut if no bare wires are visable consult a qualified tec.

hi.
as long as there is a little play on the clutch lever (1-2mm) then the clutch will probably need replacing. the cable can usually be adjusted at the lever end, and at the gearbox end, but given the age of the bike it is quite likely that the clutch need replacing. check for play on the cable first, but be prepared for a new clutch.
please feel free to ask again if you need fitting instructions.

YOUR BIKE HOLDS 2 AND 3/4 OF QUAURTS OF OIL. BUT YOU CAN FIND THE CC AMOUNT JUST BELOW THE DIPSTICK.

don't put a higher amp fuse in it. check the socket to look for any burn marks first , it sounds like you have a direct short in the circuit , you'll have to trace this "hot" wire from its source to the socket itself to look for contact with a ground, this is the simple solution. if that seems ok, your going to have to check all the components that the wire travels through,, ie switch. be sure too that the Bulb itself hasnt shorted. this over site could drive you totally crazy

Check the throttle travel and determine if you have full open and close. You may have tweeked something that prevents the throttle from opening fully.

put the kick stand up....

If the leak is actually on the wheel, It's brake fluid, If it coming from anywhere else and leaking onto the outside of the wheel, it can be either the trasmission fluid, oil, or antifreeze.

I have three early Goldwings, none of which have the original switches. The easiest way to figure out what is going on is to open the switch and make a note of which colored wire goes to which switch. Make your own diagram. Use an OHM meter to test each switch for continuity and to determine things like which wire is ground, high beam, and low beam. Which two wires operate the horn starter button , kill switch, etc. If you make your own chart it will be much easier than relying on a wiring diagram that may be from a wrong year. for example if you wire it and assemble it without making your own diagram, you could waste hours trying to figure out why it wont start when the problem is a grounded kill switch. Sounds like a fun project, I think a wiring diagram for the switch potentially could be more confusing than helpful.

10w40 works good.u can get it from autozone or dealer.

I have a 1997 parts bike with a good starter. Are youy still looking?

Stock jetting mains F/carb#90 R/carb#100
When you changed to larger jets your fuel to air ratio changed causing a richer mixture of fuel and out of balance fuel to air ratio=loss of power and performance.
you should have started if you where going experiment with jetting in increments like 95 for the front 105 for the rear, or just left the factory settings alone and maybe depending on what you want to
achieve a little more mid range performance shimmed up the needles.

NO, It has a water cooled engine and needs the radiator to cool the coolant that cools the engine. Not air cooled like Dads old bike..

Check and replace your clutches to get better performance.

On the left side of the bike at the rear should be a chrome(or black) plastic cover made to look like part of the tranny. Should be 3 bolts holding it on. Pull that and your overflow tank will be right there

you had trash in your gas, now its in your filter...hopefully. If it is in the carb you may need to disassemble it. Try the filter first. Should be inline before the petcock.

Engine is flooding, need to pull the carbs and clean them. Carbs need to be taken apart, the jets removed and cleaned out. The low speed jets, the small ones, have a very small hole in them use a single bristle out of a wire brush to clean it out, do not make the holes any bigger. once you get the jets cleaned out, put em back in, reassemble the carbs, reinstall and have a good ride.

could be the starter give it a couple hits and try it if it starts then it's your starter

The biggest thing you should do is find out why the carbs keep getting clogs in them. Most likely, there is some type of residue in the fuel tank. That must be checked first before you spend any more money on cleaning the carbs.
After cleaning the tank, cleaning the float bowls is simple. Just remove the four screws holding the float bowls on and the float bowl will be free. Clean any residue from the bowls then run fuel through the lines to purge the 'bad' stuff from them before reinstalling the bowls.