20 Most Recent 2000 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder - Page 2 Questions & Answers

I had the same problem...FIX...with these bike you need to bleed the master cylender first. The way to do this is to fill the resevior and but the cap back on,pump the handle several times while holding the handle in break open the hose bolt on the resevior. MAKE SURE TO HOLD A RAG UNDER THE BOLT BECAUSE DOT4 WILL EAT YOUR PAINT. Do this a couple times until you have nothing but fluid comming out. You should now have a good handle as long as there is no air in the rest of the system.

turn the bars all the way left, and wiggle it slightly as you turn the key, It may also need a little spray grease on the lock pin

the fuses are near the battery housing - suzuki usually have a clear plastic case on the left side of the battery - check these fuses - the dash/clock gets its power from a relay (also near the battery) which in turn gets its power from a main fuse near the battery.

under the gas tank, remove the gas tank to replace them, it has 2 plugs

You may have a blocked clutch hose or a restricted outlet/leaking piston valve in the master cylinder. Remove the hose entirely and blow through it with compressed air. Good air flow means good hose. Now try the master cylinder (clutch lever), you should get a good flow of fluid with one press. If it barely releases anything, tear the cylinder down and check the outlet area and piston valving. It may need a rebuild kit or just replace the cylinder. Once you get the cylinder working, put the hose back and new fluid in the cylinder. work the lever a number of times, then bleed the system.

try replacing the fluid on this and bleed system good,clutch adjust may be needed

Just a thought.....air will rise. If you put plenty of fluid in the clutch res... lock it down......and you put the bleeder valve higher than the reservoir....(tilt the wheel you are bleeding in the air) won't the air go to the top...........?????...just a back words way of thinking of it..........hmmm mtg

No adjusting is possible.
Slip can be caused by several defaults:
- Wrong engine oil ( SAE 10w-40 API SE or SF only )
- Weak clutch springs ( free spring length : 34mm ( 1.34in ) MINIMUM
- Worn clutch disk 2(internal teeths ) ( wear limit 3.15mm ( 0.124in ) ) This is the last disk, against the clutch center
- Worn clutch disks 1 (internal teeths) ( wear limit 2.62mm ( 0.103in ) )
- Clutch plates ( thikcness between 1.55 and 1.65mm / 0.0610 and 0.0649 inches
- Damaged pressure plate ( cracks round the spring holes )

To check the clutch parts, the right engine cover must be removed.
Take attention while loosening the clutch spring bolts!
Drain engine oil, and set engine into first gear ( this locks the clutch for an easy loosening of the spring bolts )

Hope it helps

I'll answer these together. Your tool pouch is under the rear seat.

To remove the seats take off the back rest. Unlock the tool pouch storage and remove the tools and lift up the rubber spacer on the bottom. You'll find a phillips head screw. Remove the screw by unscrewing it and the rear seat comes off. You will see 2 more screws at the back of the front seat. Unscrew those. Remove the right side frame cover. Remove the bolt and washers from each side in the front of the seat.It should lift right off. Good luck.

1 Dirty Oil / Low oil
2 broken return spring on gear lever
3 Clutch worn


hope this helps

The carbs should be synchronized every 20k miles. If you are having a roughness in idle then I would recommend the carbs being synched. If the problem is at higher RPM's I'd check to see if the motor has a harmonic dampener that can be adjusted. This often resolves vibration issues. I'm just not sure if this bike has one. These big bikes usually have some sort of adjustable dampening device internally.
I'd also like to have you check the motor mounts. This is a common problem if your bike has any rubber in the motor mounts. The rubber wears or even breaks and you often cannot see it until you actually try to remove the mount. Often they will fall apart in your hands.
These big motors all vibrate a bit so many of the manufacturers have realized that adding modified motor mounts is helpful.

The most likely thing is a sticking clutch. With the ignition off, can you drop it into second gear and push it with the clutch pulled in? You say you put 'new petrol' in, so it sounds like it has been stored for a while. Clutches will often stick as the clutch plates have been under pressure for so long. Fully warm the engine before moving off until the plates free up.And it looks like you probably mean VS1400 not VS400!There is help herehttps://www.google.com/search?q=suzuki+intruder+vs1400+stalls+when+put+in+gear..

I would look to the main inline fuse

Yes it is easier to work if you do. The caliper will easily slide off the disc if left in place, but not quite so easy putting the wheel and disc back in. Here is the VS1400 Service Manual

Suzuki Intruder VS1400 Service Manual

ManualsLib https://www.manualslib.com > ... > Intruder VS1400 View and Download Suzuki Intruder VS1400 service manual online. Intruder VS1400 motorcycle pdf manual download. ‎Engine - Tightening Torque · ‎Wiring Diagram (The Others) · ‎Balancing Carburetors https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+Suzuki+Intruder+GS1400%2C+removing+the+front+wheel&

Probably a course thread metric sized.

This sounds like an issue with your clutch. It looks like you have a hydraulic clutch, so it may just need to be bled. As long as it is something in the clutch actuation, like the master or slave cylinders, it is not all that expensive. However, if it is a problem with the clutch itself, it can be an expensive fix. First thing to check is to see if the clutch fluid reservoir has fluid or not.

3.7 quarts

check the fuses!

i do my hayabusa to about 20ft lb and the lock nuts do the rest.

have to purge air from the system