2000 Suzuki VL 1500 Intruder LC - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Same problem here

Yes there is 2 fuses high and low beam

I have the same bike. Mine didn't come with a fork lock key, so I've never locked mine. If this works for you, you can decide whether or not you want to go further about repairing/replacing the lock cylinder. First of all, you'll probably have to rotate the handlebars slightly to take pressure off of the locking mechanism. Then take a pair of small needle-nose pliers and try rotate the lock cylinder, all the while slightly rotating the handlebars. If you can get it unlocked that way, you're golden. The video on 7 tricks to remove a key makes a lot of sense to me, if you haven't looked at it, I recommend it. With patience and a "light hand" I think you'll get it out.

FOLLOW THE LINE FROM THE CLUTCH LEVER?

I'm not sure what you mean when you say that you separated the carbs from the intakes. If you mean that you are now running the carbs open to the air, without having the air flow through the filters and airbox, and then into the carbs, then you could be running too lean. One way to see if it's too lean is to do a plug check. While the best way is to run the bike hard in top gear, that's too difficult unless you're on a race track, so try this; Run the bike for awhile at the top of second or third gear somewhere that you can do it safely, and then disengage the clutch, get completely off the throttle and coast to a stop and turn the engine off quickly. Then pull one or more spark plugs and look at the electrode end, ideally with a small magnifying glass. You can also use the camera on your smartphone, zooming in and taking a photo. If the plug looks a bit tan or toast colored, you're OK, but if it looks white-ish, then you're probably running too lean. Conversely, if it looks dark and even a bit wet, it's too rich. You should go through the whole process more than once, to get an average.

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with bike sitting take gas cap off to see how long it run. if it keeps running try a new gas cap if not that,maybe vapor locking

possible not enough clutch free play engine oil is not used in the clutch assembly it is a special clutch/ transmission oil wrong oil will cause the clutch plates to slip

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under the cover left side by the seat it has a spare fuse on one side of it sould be 30 amp fuses

Sounds like you have a bad stator or rectifier. If you like to work on your own bike get a repair manual it will give you several test you can do. Charge the battery to full charge, take a volt meter and put in on the battery leads pos to plus and neg to ground. start the bike and watch the meter it should be putting out over 13 volts if it is not have your rectifier and stator checked by a pro. also check the compression valve cable it may be out of adjustment . I had one of those bike for 13 years a great bike

Have you checked the starter switch? It could be that it's sticking on after you let it go. A quick check with a multimeter should tell you. I assume that the starter eventually stops running? If not, you might have a short in your wiring.

Most likely it' s the clutch. Does it change when you engage and disengage the clutch? If so it is normal to hear a little bearing type noise from the clutch area when idling on wet clutch systems.

A dead lightblub? (remove them all, once, and see) A broken wire somewhere? A short-circuit? Some oxydation, including some hidden one inside a connector? Maybe it's time to clean all connections. WD40 helps against oxydation too.

You need to look for a short circuit, probably a bare wire touching the frame. Start with the battery connections, make sure they don't touch anything. Also check the connections to the starter solenoid and the starter. If it still blows, try disconnecting all the wire plugs at the electrical panel. Insert a new fuse, and connect the plugs one at a time until it blows. That's the circuit with the problem!

did you top up fluid , then release the nipple on the slave cylinder then pull clutch lever and hold and then retighten the nipple then release the lever ( doing this several times ) ??

close bleeder pump clutch 3 or 4 times hold clutch in open bleeder close bleeder pump clutch lever 3 to 4 times hold clutch in open bleeder fluid will start to squirt out under pressure close bleeder let clutch lever out pump 3-4 times repeat untill you get pressure in lever hold lever while bleeding donot release while the bleeder is open

check the fuel for any moisture contamination/water as this will freeze and block the system..use some heet in the gas..

check tire pressure and make sure its not running rich