Hi, Anonymous the best way to jump start your bike is to use a jumper battery and cables, if available, before trying to push start:
1. Your battery connections must be clean and tight.
2. Jumper cables should have 8 or 6 gauge wire.
3. Only use a known good fully charged jumper battery.
4. When jumping from an automobile the engine "MUST" be off.
5. Connect the positive cable first.
6. Let the bike battery charge for 1 minute before starting.
7. Once the bike has started, remove the negative cable first.
8. If no battery is available you can try to push start.
9. Always look for a downhill slope if available.
10. Shift into 2nd gear clutch in and have someone push you then stand up on the footpegs and slam your buttocks into the seat exactly at the same time let the clutch lever out.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://axleaddict.com/motorcycles/How-to-Jump-Start-a-Motorcycle How to jumpstart motorcycle with car https://git.meydan.tv/-service-suzuki-vl-250-intruder.pdf https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki
Hi, Steve if you ask 10 different riders you will get 10 different answers. All oil is certified by the Oil Gods to perform under specific conditions for specific applications and any oil is better than no oil and if you're in a bind diesel oil works just fine. If your engine is air cooled never run automotive oil because normal motorcycle cylinder head temperatures run much hotter than water cooled cylinder heads, make sure the oil is designed for motorcycles. Your owners manual recommends a specific type of oil that is designed to lubricate the engine parts to withstand the normal driving conditions the motorcycle was intended to be used for end of story. Now for an analogy, your cars owners manual recommends using 87 octane fuel to power your engine for maximum performance and it does a wonderful job in achieving that goal. But you say 92 octane is better because it has a higher number and is more expensive, well guess what your car will not run any better and there are no long or short term benefits from running a higher octane fuel bottom line your car doesn't need it. Same thing with oil sure they make lubricants that can withstand the temperature of molten lava which you would need if you were planning to drive into an active volcano, don't waste your time and money on snake oil just use what your bike needs and your manufacturer recommends and nothing more. The oil weight grade is for ambient temperatures you expect to drive in between oil changes 20w50 covers 80% of all driving temperature conditions if your looking for the best oil that works in all temperature conditions, buy a Synthetic in the same grade from a reputable oil manufacturer I personally recommend AMSOIL just because they were the pioneers in synthetics and their load test numbers for wear put them in a class all by themselves and you can go longer and further in between oil changes. It's a little hard to find in stores but easily available on line otherwise check with your Dealership for their recommendation on a synthetic.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Oil Change What type of oil to use How to change the oil on 2003 Suzuki Intruder Volusia http://www.pageoneja.com/suzuki-vl250-intruder-service-manual.pdf OEM parts for Suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki
Fouling of the spark plug makes the exhaust extremely hot due to the burning of the fuel mixture inside the exhaust pipe and the spark plug end turn to black, fouling of the spark plug may be due to too rich fuel mixture check the correct setting of the air valve.
When you switch to the Reserve position, fuel is drawn from the bottom of the tank (vs. from a tube sticking up about 2" from the bottom, when in the On position). Something is either blocking the flow of fuel into the Reserve inlet on the petcock, or the rubber seal inside the petcock is coming apart and blocking the flow of fuel. Either way, drain all of the gasoline from the tank and remove the petcock so you can see what's going on in there.
Hi, Zwelithini I would really love to help you with your bike question but due to the magnitude of yesterday's solar flare the batteries in my crystal ball are dead and my mental telepathy headset circuitry was melted. I need the year, make, and model of your motorcycle please click on " Ask For More Information" directly below and provide this information in the box that will open and then click on the green "SEND" box in the bottom right-hand corner after it posts I will receive an "ALERT" icon that will allow me to respond to your information. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Hi, Allan before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.gixxer.com/threads/battery-not-charging.552449/#post-7752073 https://www.gsxr.com/threads/gsxr-charging-system-101.225306/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PevgFfi_oaY https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1212456/Suzuki-Gsr750.html https://www.manualslib.com/manual/813897/Suzuki-Gsx-R750.html https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/
Hi, Zwelithini your instrument gauges and lights can alert you to most electrical and engine issues they can not warn you about failed engine gaskets or seals so your engine has to resort to old fashion alert methods of colored "SMOKE SIGNALS" here is a breakdown of their meaning:
1. COLORLESS OR SLIGHTLY BLUE SMOKE on start-up means your air/fuel mixture is the right composition and everything is well burnt in your combustion chamber.
2. BLUE SMOKE on startup is usually caused by failed valve seals dripping oil into the combustion chamber when the engine is not running.
3. YELLOW OR BROWNISH SMOKE at start-up means your air/fuel mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
4. WHITE SMOKE on startup may be caused by a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber and may start dripping out of the exhaust pipes or mufflers. Smoke while riding is usually caused by worn out or damaged valves, seals, guides, pistons, rings, or cylinder walls.
5. BLACK SMOKE on startup is usually caused by too much fuel in the combustion chamber this can be due to air/fuel mixture adjustment too rich, accelerator pump improperly adjusted, faulty choke or not in the off position, air filter dirty and clogged, faulty carburetor float needle and seat, pilot jet too large, fuel injectors leaking, smoke while riding is usually caused by the main jet being too large or a damaged carburetor.
It should be noted that aggressive or abnormal throttle operation will cause these conditions to manifest themselves exponentially.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day. https://www.gixxer.com/threads/idle-issue-then-black-smoke.356474/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YfEIP6eRzs https://www.manualslib.com/manual/813897/Suzuki-Gsx-R750.html https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki https://www.gixxer.com/threads/k8-750-owners-manual.378746/