20 Most Recent 2001 Suzuki DR-Z 250 Questions & Answers

It could be timing chain slap? Do you have good compression?

Check to see if your silencer need a decoke .unburnt oil blocks up the silencer and reduces power output .

I have a 83 DR 250 and i'm not getting enough voltage to create a spark, all I can suggest is that you check your battery and make sure its at full flavour. Check and see if you are getting any voltage prior to the ignition coil (should be 18-35v). If you suspect battery then try clutching it as the alternator moving faster might give you enough to get her going. Also check all your connections and earths. Earth wires are often overlooked and can cause you just as many problems as the actives. So give that a go and get back to me mate. Cheers

I have a dr-z 250 suzuki and i replaced piston and rings. Dont know how to reset timing chain and cam gears. does eney body know how to set the timing on this bike.

http://www.adoos.it/postx/05547e06f0d78e0f88e825f91e9b543a/suzuki_dr_600_650_centralina

Well,...what brand of tire does it have????. every tire is different, as you maybe know....Look at the tire, the brand should be written on the sidewall, and most tires have the recommended tire pressure written on the tire as well. If you know the brand, then contact the tire manufacturer ( if they are still in business ).
If the tires are Japanese or Chinese, then just ask your local moto shop,...they will kindly recommend the right pressure for you....If all else fails,...buy some modern tires for your bike....1981 was a long time ago!!

You need to take your front brake master cylinder apart. When you rebuild your master cylinder look down into the reservoir at the large brake fluid feeder hole. Right next to it is a tiny pin hole. That is the brake fluid return hole for the reservoir. It is probably plugged with rust or dirt. When it is plugged , you drive a short distance and the wheel locks up. Open the bleeder screw to release a squirt of fluid and you can drive back home before it locks up again. Clean out the hole with a single straight bristle from a wire brush and see if that fixes the problem.

The side of the tire will tell you the maximum pressure for the tire. My DR200 has a sticker on the swing arm that tells me the recommended pressure. If the sticker is not on the swing arm try looking on the frame around the side covers. You should be able to run 32 psi to 35 psi front and rear for street riding.

Need standard mineral oil SAE10W/40, amount needed abt 3-3.5L. Some aftermarket filters doesnot give a 'O'ring seal replacement, OEM will. If you remove the filter carefully, the O-ring should be alright to be re-used. Good?

http://www.suzukicycles.org/All-Suzuki/all_suzuki_models.html

This link (FAQ: VIN codes) will identify most makes and years for Suzuki, links from there will go deeper and wider.

Is it a 2 stroke? if so, 1st make sure your gas/oil ratio is correct. 2nd make sure you have the correct sparkplug.... and 3rd... sorry to say.... you may be close to a piston and/or ring seizure. The loss of power and extra heat generation is probably coming from friction between a worn cylinder and the piston/ring.

It sounds like you've got some moisture related corrosion going on inside the brake caliper. What you need to do is remove the caliper and disassemble it. Carefully remove the piston from the caliper using compresses air, if needed (but be careful, the piston can become a 28mm projectile). Next, remove the piston seal from the machined groove in the caliper. Clean all parts with warm soapy water - Simple Green works great. Using a dental instrument or similar device, carefully scrape all traces of corrosion or other foreign matter from the groove in the caliper that holds the piston seal. Using a ScotchBrite pad, remove any signs of rust, dirt, etc. from the piston.
Replace the piston seal - unless the old one is still in good shape (no cracks) and reassemble the caliper using fresh brake fluid to lubricate the piston and seal. Reinstall on the bike and fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid. Pump the pedal several times and hold down while opening the bleeder valve on the caliper. Repeat the bleeding process until the pedal is firm and braking action is restored.

usually timing marks are on the flywheel or rotor of the alternator. Usually on the opposite side of the gear case. I think that would be the right side on your machine.

Without looking at it, I could only recommend that you go off the cam lobes themselves.
Or, another way I do it is to put a finger on each rocker and turn the camshaft backwards and forwards with a spanner.
What you are looking for is a point where one is going up, and the other going down.
Just keep going backwards and forwards, trying your best to pick the middle point of this action.
Then line it up with the nearest mark.
Often they will have an ignition timing mark and a TDC mark. Not sure what the third one would be though.

Hope I have helped.

The stator should be ok if not touched. Change plugs. If stator has been moved buy a shop manual and follow directions

no it doesnt matter buddy which end it goes on aslong as the spring is tight

try this buddy

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/nos-suzuki-dr250-sp250-igniter-box-cdi_W0QQitemZ370267489143QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item5635a98377&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

4 qts

yes buddy the idle screw is too low on carb is a screw idle screw turn this in 1/4 of a turn at a time till it idles at 1000rpm or it dles ok