20 Most Recent 2001 Suzuki DR-Z 400 SE Questions & Answers

I would recommended Removing Head of engine and inspecting barrel and piston rings as when Engine gets hot The rings expand slightly if there cracked and they expand Piston will not move properly.

Sounds like a problem with the battery itself. If the battery is over 3 years old you might want to remove it and have it tested at pep boys or something. if battery is good...Then have a look at your generator.

Intake .03 - .05 mm

Exhaust .05 - .07mm

same as the dr 350

I can't quite tell what your problem is.
It sounds like you are saying the bike is heating.
But I don't know if you mean from friction of something rubbing, or if you mean you have a short and the wiring is melting?
Either is quite possible.
Here is a good example of how to change a Suzuki stator.
But the rectifier diodes must also be in good shape first.
You can check them with an ohmmeter, to see that current only passes one way and not the other.

http://www.cycleorings.com/GS850stator.pdf

It can be undetected short somewhere in the wiring which could causes a stator to overheat and eventually fail and causing the bike to overheat. Check the coolant level.Is it low or full.In some cases there is a minor coolant leak and this is the cause of overheat.Other possibility is coolant getting blocked.It does not leaks in some cases it gets blocked.So the bike overheats. Also test this:- The warped the piston rings, causing oil burning problem. And this may be overheating the bike.Get a compression tester, test compression 1 cylinder at a time, check the reading, then put about 1.5-2 teaspoons of oil into the cylinder and test again, if you reading goes up much more than 10% or 15 psi, then your rings are going bad.--------- Check out.Thanks.

maybe the stator is not matching right try another stator

the oil pressure relief valve must be sticking/siezed causing the excessive build up of pressure, the valve will be located in the pump

Follow the leads that exit the crankcase from below carby area and thoroughly check all these connections to CDI unit and Rectifier and Ignition Coil. The wires also then follow thru' engine kill switch and lighting switch, others go to tail and brakelight switch. Are the wires being pinched at head stem or within handlebar switches. If all wiring/swithes and connections are in good order, you have some issues with your stator coils or pick-up coil inside left engine cover and behind the rotor, or the CDI unit. With some luck, the Rectifier or Ignition Coil may be guilty as these are relatively cheap to replace compared to stator coils and CDI. Get an auto. elec. multi meter check done. The Service Manual (info can be asked from Suzi dealer) has the Ohms resistance parameters to test against. Goodluck, and Cheers.

there should be a line on the float bowl, if not set the carbs upside down on a work bench get eye level set floats to where you can only see half start there ,if they over flow back off a bit GET A MEASUREMENT IF POSSIBLE oh you'll have to make a aux fuel cell if you dont want to pull on and off seems like some specs are tuff to find so do this hope this helps

the stator wouldn't make it cut out.. do you know what rpm it's cutting out at. hey feel free to email me [email protected] and i'll walk you through it and try to help you out.i'm pretty familiar with things of the nature... might even be a smaller fuel jet restricting you or a re stricter in the exhaust pipe or muffler or between the carb and head. give a shout and i'll try to help

Remove rubber connection from carby inlet (between carby and air filter) enough to get a piece of thin card to cover inlet to carby. Turn motor over with throttle half open for a few seconds. Remove card and see if any fuel is on the card. If there is, repeat process (fresh card) without throttle, fuel should still appear. If there is no fuel present, you have a fuel blockage. If engine still not starting with fuel present, you have an electrical problem, check for spark by resting attached plug to engine metal and turning engine over.

A service manual is a valuable tool with an aging bike. I suggest the dealer/mfr. or Clymer books. In the meantime, go to the library reference section...646 stacks should have what you need.

How old is your air filter, if more than 1000miles, try to change it first then check also fuel filter condition. Good?

http://www.atvstyle.com/index.php/atv-vin-number

You can use the VIN off the frame to find the year. Here is a link to a VIN decoder.

The problem is more likely a sticky cable, give it a good squirt of WD40 or equivalent. Do both of them, and look for frayed wire. If you find it, then the cables need replacing

check that all the wire connections are good, start at the 3 stator leads and follow it to the rectifier and to the battery, also if you have a multimeter, rev the bike up to 3000 revs and hook up the multimeter to the battery (positive to positive and neg - neg), this will give you the charging voltage, should be between 13-15 volts dc, if its not, it could be a bad stator, but is more likely to be the regulator rectifier unit

when cold engine IN 0.03-0.08 EX 0.17-0.22 mm

It is probably the voltage regulator or rectifier, as the bike runs check the voltage of the battery it should read 14 volts if it only reads 12 the battery is not recieving enough volts to maintain the batteries charge, go to bike bandit.com the probaly have the part you need.

Treat as for a bad connector - take it apart, spray liberally with WD-40 or CRC and reassemble.