2001 Suzuki GSX-R 750 - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

need more info is battery full and connected all power wires ok. You need multimeter $10 repco or supercheap there are cheap ones easy to use set to 20< volts test positive wire to ignition for power after you check battery without anything connected to it.

Bike batteries need full charge to start a bike, if there is less than full charge you can't even push start them. No click generally means no charge, the clicking sound is the solenoid working.
When you just start the bike and run it at idle, even fast idle. The battery does not get sufficient charge. What you take out of it to start it, is more than what you put back in it when you run it at idle. Bikes need to be at road speed to charge efficiently.
Also just sitting around they discharge, you may have an earth leak also. That causes your battery to discharge at a more accelorated rate than normal. If it has a clock in it, this bleeds off a small amount of power but still enough if it isn't being correctly charged.

If old gas sat in the carb.s for more than a month it starts to dry up. As it drys up it leaves behind a varnish like film that stops up some very small ports and pin holes inside a motorcycle carburetor. It is also very hard to get out. You can try this before you pull the carb.s for a full cleaning.Use a product called Seafoam, get as much gas out of the carb.s as you can. use a turkey baster and force the seafoam into your carb.s fuel line that you take loose from the fuel tank. Let that set for say 1 or 2 days. then hook up the fueltank with a mix of good gas and seafoam, (not a lot but enough to start it up. Move the cycle outside as the seafoam will make a lot of smoke if it does start up. If that does not clear up the problem you may have to pull the carb(s) and remove the blows to clean the inside. If you have to do that do not DO NOT MESS with any adjustment screws. Just take the carb. bowl off. Do not mix up any internal parts. It is best to work on a large sheet so if you drop a small part you can find it, you do not want to be missing some tiny spring or screw. Hope this Helps Fix Ya Up..

Left hand side cylinder is no.1

check / remove the spark plug from cylinder head ,clean and dry them both,might water gets into it...
possible should adjust the spark plug tip allowance,make it slight closer.

or try to replace another spark plug. good luck..








hope it helps... please rate me if this is helpful...thanks

what model or you working on. I'm guessing it is a gsx-r but till i know for sure i'm not going to be to much help. I would like it if you could get back to me with the yr and model, when i have that i can get you the wire diagram and help you get it fixed.
I'm not going to lie about this but if your not confident in wiring it may be something you want your local shop to handle. If you take your time and ask for help with things your not sure about i'm sure you can handle it without a problem.
I'm looking forward to hearing back from you with the info i need to help you get the bike running like it should.
M.Woodring

Inspect your side stand switch. Test it with a meter to ensure it is opening and closing the circuit.

You likely have a bad side stand switch. Test it with a meter and make sure it is working. Opening and closing the circuit.

28 thou

Hi,,first thing is to clean the carbs,,if that dosnt solve the issue ,i would be looking at the coils.and cdi

FI stands for Fuel Injection. Sensors on fuel system have found a problem. Many problems are simple, like a dirty air filter. Some problems are serious, like low fuel pressure. Some problems are "fatal" like fuel mapping gone bad. Fatal problems will not allow the bike to run. You will need to get the bike to a dealer and hook up a code reader to see what the sensors have found. Bear in mind, be sure the sensor hasn't gone bad.

This new gas that everybody is selling with the ethanol goes bad very quickly try using some lucas fuel stabilizer and if that does work check the run / not run switch above the start button if it got some corrosion in the switch it would allow the engine to turn over but not fire. Good luck riding season is right around the corner.

If it has a Clutch cable check the adjustment. It always need adjusting after putting in new clutch. If it has hydraulic clutch check and bleed the clutch fluid. If there is air in the lines this can cause a problem. Make sure you purchase a Service Manual it is a mechanics best friend. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

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The contacts in your starter solenoid are burnt , dirty, or just not making a good enough connection to activate the starter. If you bypass the solenoid and the bike starts normally, then you just need to replace the starter solenoid.

Stalling while engaging the clutch from N to first - sounds like a clutch issue.First of all get the clutch cable checked.If the cable is got loose,then tighten it first.If the cable is properly tight but still feels worn out loose then replace the cable/.But if the cable looks proper then it can be clutch issue.Check your clutch cable - if it's not springing back - there is a problem. Try turning that round dial on your lever...that will tighten or loosen your cable depending on which way you turn it. ---------- Lower your idle back down to 1200 and see how she runs. If the stalling happens...raise it up to 1500 see if it happens. ---------------------
If the clutch cable is out of line or adjustment,you can try this to refit it:--- Your clutch adjuster on the front sprocket cover may be too out of whack for adjusting the cable only. Try loosening the cable all the way in and removing the rubber cicular piece on the front sprocket cover. You'll need a wrench and a straight/common screwdriver. Hold the middle set screw while trying to loosen the locking nut around it. Once it's loose, you should feel hardly any resistance on the middle screw. Back it out until you don't feel any resistance usually 2 or 3 turns. Next, start turning the screw as if you were tightening it back in. Once you feel it touch the clutch pushrod (very little resistance) stop and back it out 1/4 turn then hold that screw and tighten the lock nut again. Now start adjusting your cable adjusters as needed which shouldn't be much at all. This is one of the most common reason for what most think they need a new cluch and all it is, is out of adjustment. This should be inspected every 4K miles as periodic maintanence. ------------ This should help.Thanks,Helpmech.

fork oil will show on the forks if it has leaked put your bike on paddocks and spin the wheel if it stops at a point will be a warped disc also if a break pad is gone on one side it will affect the breaking or a tight piston take of you calipers check them and lube them up and check pads cheaper than new discs

Try charging your battery over night,,,its very possible the battery dosnt have enough juice too power everything up right,,,so you may get a system chop.

I would have a look at the condition of air filter and air intake manifolds for obstructions, the carby jets for scum build up and floatbowl levels for eveness and for air leaks on intake manifolds to the heads. Are the header pipes heating evenly when first warming up and do the same pressures exit all exhausts. Have you got good even compression.
The link below has all the sections of your bike in exploded view form with parts named and numbered.
Goodluck, cheers!

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsx-r1100-1993-wp_model13597/partslist/

First step: check the spark from your plugs. You can do this by pulling the plug and grounding it to the engine case, and turning the engine over. If the spark is weak, and the plug is relatively clean, then the ignition coil would be the next suspect. If all plugs are not roughly the same in appearance, then you may have fuel issues.