20 Most Recent 2002 Suzuki VL 1500 Intruder LC - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Use a digital multi meter to check it.

rectifier regulator may be on the way out its next to the battery

coils can expand and lose internal connection when hot.you can test the coils cold and then heat them with a heat gun and see if you loose continuity.

i would say definately not i have microscoppic play on mine, a good test is to compare it with the front rotors they should have equal play, WITH BRAKES DONT GAMBLE i would change it without a doubt.

REPLACE THE ELECTRICAL IGNITION SWITCH WHICH IS SHORTING OUT AT TIMES. EVENTUALLY IT WILL NOT WORK AT ALL VERY SOON

If the switch is in fact operating, you have a wire that is disconnected. Before you replace it, check the actual switch with a VOM to prove or disprove operation. Follow the wires to their end to assure they are in fact connected to the harness. Continue following the wires to their conclusion.

Let me know how you make out.

Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com

yep take the baskit out its shaped like a castle wall where the plates sit in side they get stuck as the walls arnt square after a while they have a half moon cut out wher ethe plates rub they need filled staight again so they go up and down freely also make sure u dont have the wrong oil in as alot of people stick anything in them if it has semi oil or fully synthetic the clutch will slip and not work at a high temeture or low but try the baskit as on older bike they are worn i_i_i_i_i_ looks like that the wall if its worn (_)(_)(_) lol

The oil light is most likely the one at the lower right. My bike is the C90, so it may be a little different but Suzuki's 1500 oil light will be in that general area and will light red when you first turn the key to 'ON' position. You will also see that there will be a picture of what looks like a tiny watering can... this is the oil light. The VL 1500 (like the C90) is air/oil cooled and it is imperrative that the oil in the level indicator window (right side on engine case cover) is at least half way up the glass window (no more than 3/4) with the bike in the staight up possition. Have someone else look while you are on the bike. It is recommended that you let the bike idle for a couple minutes first, turn it off, and wait a minute before checking the level. Hope this helps :)

SAE90/GL5 or 80/90 gear oil

fuel float is sticking go by the miles on your cluster to guage how far you can go till you clean or replace the guage in the tank

hope this works

Do you mean tyre or wheel.? Tyre removal requires the use of a tyre bead breaker and levers and rim protectors, once the tyrehas been broken away from the wheel all around on both sides , start tyre removal with the valve at about 1oclock insert a rim protector followed by a tyre lever and rest it against the rim protector and under the first bead of the tyre, then push the tyre into the middle of the wheel rim at about 6oclock on the rim, and keep it down while yuo push down the tyre lever against the rim pulling the tyre over the rim at the valve end, you will then need to insert another lever close to the ready inserted one to continue pulling the tyre over the rim all the way around untill removed completely, wheel removal on this bike is easy, securing the bike is not, because of the rear fender design you will have to lift the bike high enough to remove the wheel from the rear of the bike once it has been removed from the bike, Remove the securing nut from the r,hand side its a little fiddely unless you remove the exhaust silencers which is probably the best bet, remove the rear caliper and carrier from the bike, pull the wheel spindle from the left side out, it may need a slight. Knock to start from the r,hand side, then the caliper. Carrier can be removed , note order of spacers, and place in a safe place for replacment, from the right grab the wheel with both hands and pull gently untill it is removed from the diff, carefully remove from the frame takeing care not to mark the wheel or other paintwork, and not to dismount the vehicle fro its stand,

You will find that you have blown a fuse, i am not sure where it is located on your model but if you can ring up your dealer or locate a owners manual it should assist you.

hi.
it sounds like the needle valve or the float is sticking, allowing petrol to overfill the float chamber.

i can only give general instructions at the minute as you have not given the make model or age of the bike, but you should be able to follow them ok.
if you want detailed instructions for your bike, just let me know the make model and year.

first,ensure that the fuel is turned off. loosen the clip/s that hold the air filter unit onto the carb and pull the filter unit back.

then undo the front of the carb. this may be a clip around a rubber fitting that pulls off, or bolts depending on model.

the fuel line should have a clip and then twist and pull of the brass fitting.
the throttle cable should go into the top of the carb, the top should unscrew and you can lift up the top, the cable and the throttle slider inside. the slider has 2 slots on opposite sides. remember which side has the thick slot when you put it back.

you should now have the carb off the bike.

turn the carb upside down. petrol will leak out at this point.
there should be 4 screws holding the bottom of the carb on to the main body. remove the screws and lift the body off carefully.
clean the inside of this and make sure the rubber gasket is still in place.
looking at the now exposed inside of the carb, you should see a plastic float held in place with a steel pin that the float pivits on. the pin should push/pull out sideways.
you should now be able to lift the float up but be carefull as on some bikes the needle valve sits in a slot on the float and will lift up as well. if the needle valve is still in the carb just lift it out.

make sure that the needle valve and the seat for it are all clean and the needle does not stick at all, and make sure that the float does not have any liquid inside it.

do not alter any of the brass screws as these will alter the fuel mixture to the engine, or the engine tickover.

reassemble carefully, ensuring that everything is clean and moves freely.

hopefully this will have cured the petrol overflowing, but you may need to get a new needle valve kit if it is worn and still sticky.

sorry i cannot give better instructions, but without the model and age this is the best i can do.
if you let me know the make and model and age, i can give more detailed instructions if you need.

Chances are the float is stuck in the closed position. Remove the float bowl at the bottom of the carb and spray the float area with carb cleaner. Gently lift the float and then let it drop a few times. The float needle should break free. When it is free, the gas should should start flowing then stop when the float is lifted and resume when the float is lowered again. Remount the float bowl and go for a ride.

Pull off your side covers to access the motor and plugs.

Try www.emanuals.com

I would recommend Clymer Manuals

http://www.clymer.com/Default.aspx

Good Luck!!!

I found some on google. Type in your problem then google pulled up some web sites with diagrams

Sputtering or popping through the carburetor as well as high idle is typically associated with an air leak (bad gaskets/intake manifold) on the intake side of the motor. The backfiring through the exhaust is also associated to leaking exhaust pipe gaskets in the head and some times the head pipe to muffler gaskets. Cleaning the carburetor is always a good idea when experiencing running problems. My guess is that the mechanic reused the gaskets on the motorcycle allowing the problem to get worse . He could have accidentally fixed the popping problem by putting in new gaskets and manifold and had a happy customer with out the time saving short cut.
As for the new sound like an alarm clock with no bell, Your motorcycle is equipped with hydraulic lifters. This problem is probably unrelated to your dealer experience. They should have been able to diagnose or test it for you. The number one reason you would have a clatter or clicking would be if an automatic cam chain tensioner went bad. But from your description (the number two reason) you probably have a hydraulic lifter that is stuck or not holding pressure. When a hydraulic lifter does not zero tolerance itself the way it is designed , you end up with ticking or clattering. This was a common problem in 1983 when Honda first put hydraulic lifters in there Shadow 750. But because of better quality control and better materials this clacking lifter problem is one that most newer mechanics have not seen. It is rare but I suspect you have a lifter gone bad. Remember to only use JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. Do not use any oil that says Energy Conserving. Synthetics help your bike run cooler and shift easier which would also help sticking lifter issues. I do not believe fuel additives will do any thing for your situation except preserve your fuel for long storage.

pull your choke fully closed and see if backfires, if it does close the
half way . and crank it , it should start . you have to have full charge in your battery, do not crank until you do this. if it does run
you have replace your battery, let me know, maybe I can help you
further . good luck.