20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki RM 125 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Here's the easiest way:

Put the head bolts back on snug. Put the spark plug back in snug. Put the cylinder base nuts back on but leave them about 1/4" away from seat. Now give the kickstarter a swift hit down - you can do this by hand. Repeat until the cylinder pops up. Now, loosen the head nuts and repeat.

This is the easiest way to remove a cylinder.

Hope this helps.

Your float is sticking... This moves a needle that opens and closes the fuel coming into the carburator. You can try to tap on the side of the carb with a wooden handle, and if that doesn't help, you need to get it cleaned out inside.

The same way you take it off. Do no adjust it unless you previously have

This has to be a joke question right ? Put the fuel line back on the carb then. If it has split the fuel line, replace it with a new piece of rubber fuel line.

Mista B.

I don't know what has not been removed so pardon me if I suggest something already removed. Remove the cylinder, intake manifold, magneto, stator, sprocket and shift lever. A case splitter is highly recommended. They don't cost that much and it makes for a clean separation. The two positioning guides will tend to hamper separation as will the crankshaft and output shaft as they slide through the bearings. That's another reason for a case splitter. Now would be a good time for new crank and output shaft bearings and seals and a new shift shaft seal. I assume the reason for the teardown is either a bent shift fork or broken gear teeth. If replacing a gear with a broken tooth or two, also replace any gears the broken gear meshes with. If you don't, you will get to do the gear repair a second time very soon after the first ride. Whatever pressure broke the teeth on one gear was also present on the meshing gear. It may look good, but it isn't. Please take a moment to rate my answer. Thanks.

Hi,,ok that is a lot of wasted money spent,,the power valve plays little role in compression,,the FIRST thing to do is remove the flywheel and check the crank seal,,the compression has to be going somewhere,,,and the stator side crank seal is almost allways to blame(blows engines real fast,,sucks air,motor runs lean and bang!)

good luck

common thing with 2 strokes is that if the plug isnt in good condition they wont run

i run a ts 250 2 stroke and i have to change to plug a lot more then a 4 stroke

Could be low compression (poor piston rings) or plugged air filter.
If it looks like oil on the plug, not fuel, you could have a crank seal issue, as the right side one will **** in transmission oil if it leaks.

yes sir that would be the reason i my self have a 2 stroke ts 250 i use automatic transmission fluid for cars in my i have never had a problem all the years i have had mine

HI,,sounds like your plug is fouling,,what pre-mix ratio are you running? and has the carb been played with? run 32-1 premix and remove and clean the carb.

piston and rings are not to blame for this behaviour.

quantity is .75 liters, and no, that oil will not work. You have a very high revving engine. You need to get yourself oil for a race engine. Take a trip to your local bike shop, they will have what you need. Even if they dont sell suzuki, its not specific to the manufacturer

What did you measure the compression with, because it sounds like you have a cracked piston ring...

Well, the obvious things: The kill-switch should be in the working position, the key should be in and turned and of course there should be enough fuel in the tank.
Sometimes and especially during cold weather you may need to turn the throttle a bit as well, while using the kick start.

the carb cud be dirty or needs ajust-28yrs--also test batt for holdin a charge-are cables clean n tite

Hi, i presume that before you rebuilt the top end you had no issues? Normaly this happens when either you have exsessive play in either the big end or the small end bearing, this would be recognised by up and down moovment in the conrod for big end and piston for small end, this would account for spark plug contact only. The other thing to check was the piston identical in height to the old one, did it have the same cut outs for fuel transfere, and finaly did you install it in the correct direction with the rings located in the peg positions facing the inlet side of the barrel, was the new head gasket the same thickness as the old one, did you run i the new piston for a while if the piston and cylinder were new a bed in period must be observed

Detonation is normally caused by compression being too high for the particular fuel you are using.
Try using a higher octane fuel, and see if it still detonates. I am not sure what octane fuel you are running, but use the highest available, or else try a mix of racing fuel and highest octane pump gas available. I seriously doubt your problem is electrical.

Hi dave_hufkens

 

Please go to the following url:

 

http://www.filestube.com/39e99f3a655defd103ea,g/Suzuki-RM125-Service-Manual-2003.html

 

There you can see

 

" Download now (2 parts) from rapidshare.com ":

 

Please click on download button to start the download process.

 

Save it to your local drive.

 

Hope this helps

 

Regards

TDCL

only to only and conect to connect

Hi,
This type of problem genraly occour by the reason of bad plug, bad fuel
check for spark Try a new plug take to a shop. also check compresion and fule.
i hope this will be helpfull to you, please don't forget to vote me
goodluck................

What this sounds like is a carb issue. There are screws that are located on the carb that control the air and fuel mixture, if you are getting to much air then it will crank and run only for a minute or two then shut off. Have you tried adjusting it? It can take some time to get it right as each bike engine is going to be slightly different and all adjustments are going to be bike/engine specific. I would recommend adjusting the air and fuel mixture, that will probably work for ya. Hope that this helped.