2003 Suzuki RM 125 - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

did you check to see if it had spark with the kill switch unplugged?

Those little carbs on these tiny thumpers clog easily. You'll probably have to pull the carb, soak it in carb cleaner, blow it out with compressed air (be sure to wear chem-proof gloves and a face shield or at least eye protection--carb cleaner's nasty and when you blow it with compressed air, it goes everywhere). Reassemble, and it should run fine. We had a TTR125 and we had to clean the carb this way every year before riding season.

Depending on how large they are, they are most like from the oil lines that distribute oil to different parts of the bottom end of you motor. Also, they could be from around the oil pickup tube where it mates to the block.

Do a gearbox oil change. Then do another one 50 miles later. This should flush out the dirt and grit currently in the gearbox. You may want to invest in a new clutch cable also. 10w40 motor oil.

84 rm suzuki 125. when i push the clutch in it stays in and dont engage

it's prolly somthing electrical

Take the carb apart and clean out all the jets.

Cant think of any reason why I wouldnt besides the motor mounts. Just go to your local bike shop and ask them. Good Luck!!

Its either condensation or un burnt fuel check carb make sure it is not too rich

One of two things come to mind:

Either your pilot circuit is too lean (colder winter air needs more fuel) or your compression is down. 10 hours on a 125 top end doesn't sound like much but the longevity of the top end depends on many variables including how hard it is ridden, mix ratio, jetting, compression, etc. To me, 10 hours is a lot for a 125.

Where are you located and what is the temperature there? If it ran well in 75F weather and it's now winter, it's likely in need of a larger pilot jet.

1) Can you push the bike while it's in gear with the clutch pulled in? [If so, clutch is disengaging OK]

2) If not, check when you pull in the clutch lever that it pulls all the way through to the actual clutch [If not, replace broken clutch cable]

3) If so, clutch is binding. Either fix it properly by stripping the clutch.. or just brute-force the plates apart. :-)

Brute-force clutch plate separation: First make sure you have enough oil in the engine (wet clutch), then basically you're looking at either riding it with the clutch lever pulled in until the plates come apart or with the rear wheel in the air CAREFULLY running it in first gear against the rear brake while the clutch is pulled in.

Turn the air screw and throttle screw all the way inward. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. The carb is now set back to factory specs assuming no one has changed out the main jet or played with the float level..

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Did you do the reassembly yourself? If not, take it back to whoever did because the reassembly was done incorrectly. Oil and water mixing can only happen at the top or bottom ends of the barrel. Either the head gasket is not seated properly or the barrel to casing seals are not properly installed

the chain is to tight when you put it into gear you loose 2-3 links of slack and if its to tight you cant change gear move the back wheel closer to the swing arm that should fix it

hope this helps

John

Either the float is stuck open, or there is a piece of trash preventing the float needle from fully closing, or the float no longer actually floats. Try draining the carb then tap firmly on the float bowl as the carb refills. Use the blunt handle of a screwdriver to do do the tapping. Hopefully the vibration will free up the float or dislodge the trash. If not you will need to re-clean the carb.

Either the water pump need a seal, or the head gasket is gone

hi mate i had a rm 250 with the same problem, have you done a compression test, as mine had poor compression

Nothing really can be timed on two stroke so as long as all back together correctly then should be good to go
Are you asking this question because is not going now or you just curious? as we may be able to look at other options if you have problem starting it now?
good luck with your new big bore anyhow well done !
regards Jamie

Turn the run/stop switch to stop, choke the engine and give a couple of sharp kicks then turn the switch to run and it should start in a kick or two.

My son has raced for years, and every time he moved up a bike size and was a little small for it, I cut down the seat for him. It's actually pretty easy to do, and if you look closely a lot of pro's cut their seats as well. Remove the staples from the bottom of the seat and pull the cover off to expose the foam. I typically will mark the foam with a black marker, making a gradual curve from 0 to 2' down where his **** is and back to zero again at the rear. An electric carving knife works great, but a hacksaw blade will do a nice job as well. After cutting the height down, fold the seat cover at the seams, center it on top of the foam and trace the original width of the seat in black marker around the cover. Then taper the foam on each side back to it's original width. I then buff the knive marks out with a open rasp or a scotch brite pad. Restretch the cover from the middle first to both ends, an electric stapler works best with 5/16 staples. Trim the excess cover with a razor and your finished. Good luck!