how do i set my suzuki rm 125 carb to the right setting and does any 1 know what the setting should be please
thanks
graham
Turn the air screw and throttle screw all the way inward. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. The carb is now set back to factory specs assuming no one has changed out the main jet or played with the float level..
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Posted on Aug 03, 2009
The bike has been sitting for a while, however even before this it seemed as though the bike always wanted to lunge forward.
Are you using the correct 10W40W wet clutch motorcycle oil? It has special friction modifiers in it for this clutch drag issue.
Posted on Nov 09, 2016
Hello, I have Suzuki RM 85 L (2003). I'm just starting motocross, and at this moment I like add more power(torgue) in low RPM and less power with high RPM. I heard, that it is possible to do by adjusting exhaust valve. I do have Suzuki owner's service manual. It tells how to remove and install the exchaust valve, but do not tell how to do adjustments as I need.
I will come back to you with the method for adjusting this.
If you set the power valve to open at a higher rpm or restrict the vavle from opening to its maximum then your problem will be solved.
If you do the latter though you will definately lose your power at high rpm.
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
I need a repair manual for a 2003 Suzuki rm 125. Clymer does not offer one for that year model. Would another year model work? If so what year. Thanks
here you go buddy,
http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/812559-2003-suzuki-rm125-motorcycle-service-manual
http://www.pro-bike.ro/forums/index.php?autocom=downloads&showfile=514
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/clymsuzrm19.html
regards,
voodoo
Posted on Jul 23, 2009
Suzuki RM 125 water is mixing with the gearbox oil how do I fix it, or what is the cause. The water is leaking from the cooling system and turning the oil milky. I have just changed the oil and filled up the water in the radiator after having a re bore and new piston done. After a couple of minutes running the bike the oil had gone milky and the water in the radiator depleted. Any ideas what the problem may be and how to fix it please. I am a little stumped.
Did you do the reassembly yourself? If not, take it back to whoever did because the reassembly was done incorrectly. Oil and water mixing can only happen at the top or bottom ends of the barrel. Either the head gasket is not seated properly or the barrel to casing seals are not properly installed
Posted on Jul 31, 2010
what kind of gear oil for 2003 rm 85
Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.
Use TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL in the pump. If not using an automatic oil pump, then mix the gas and oil 32 to 1. That equals 4 ounces of TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL to one gallon of gas. NEVER use motor oil in the gas. Only two stroke engine oil.
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Posted on Jun 07, 2009
suzuki rm 80 fuel/oil mixture ratio, cant get hold of a manual anywhere!! Think its a 1988/1989 thaanks
32:1
Use good two stroke oil and re-jet if your spark plug color is to white or black. Should be around a chocolate color.
Posted on Oct 29, 2009
needle adjustments for 1999 Suzuki RM80 Need carb needle setting for idle screw and air fuel mix screw.
Lightly seat the screws then open up each of them one and one half turns. This is the factory setting.
Posted on Aug 11, 2010
I MADE A TRADE FOR THIS BIKE. THE OWNER TOLD ME IT HAD NO SPARK COLD BUT IT WOULD PULL START. I BOUGHT THE SERVICE MANUEL SO THAT I COULD TEST IT PROPER. THE STATOR FAILED THE RESISTANCE TEST, SO I FOUND A USED ONE FOR THAT TESTED GOOD.THAT DIDN'T WORK SO I REPLACED THE CDI WITH A KNOWN GOOD ONE. TO MAKE A LONG STORY SHORT, I HAVE REPLACED THE STATOR AGAIN, THE CDI AGAIN, THE PICK UP COIL TWICE, THE IGNITION COIL AND PLUG WIRE. THE SECOND STATOR EVEN CAME COMPLETE WITH THE WIRING HARNESS.I HAVE REPLACED THE ENTIRE SYSTEM WITH NEW OR KNOWN GOOD PARTS OFF RUNNING BIKES. AND NO THE KILL SWITCH IS NOT GROUNDED AND THE FLYWHEEL SPINS. WHAT SHOULD I DO NOW?
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, test for the presence / absence of below described voltages using an analog / needle type voltmeter when starting the bike:
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.
Posted on Dec 19, 2009
i have a 1979 rm 125, i just bought it and want to change the oil in the clutch because a lcak of power, what kind of oil does it take.
Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.
Use TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL in the pump. If not using an automatic oil pump, then mix the gas and oil 32 to 1. That equals 4 ounces of TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL to one gallon of gas. NEVER use motor oil in the gas. Only two stroke engine oil.
The lack of power probably has nothing to do with the clutch. More than likely you need new crank seals and possibly new crankshaft bearings. New piston rings are a possibility also. Remove the left side cover so yo can grab hold of the flywheel. Lift the flywheel up and down then left and right. If the flywheel is not rock solid you need new bearings. If you have to replace the bearings, also replace the sprocket shaft bearing and seal while you are inside the engine. For parts , go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
Cleaning the carb jets may help with the power problem also.
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Drain the carburetor. There should be a large plug on the bottom of the float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.
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Posted on Aug 22, 2009
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