20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki RM 250 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Idon,t see how it could be from the filter unless you have been some deep water lately check for oil in the coolant if you see that its a gasket

Ngk plugs are great for suzuki, they have 2 heat ranges, if your bike runs great go with that plug or
try the hot plug and it may do even better . your choice.

There is a screw with a spring around it on the carb on the throat of the throttle slide. Just tighten the screw a little bit. As a matter of fact I would start the bike and adjust it with the bike running.

Please rate this. I helped you now will you please help me? Thanks! Have a great day!

check the easy stuff first like shift drum detent ext you will have to pull left case cover if its not in there then you will have to pull the engine and split the cases to check dogs and dog houses (old school) wore shift drum and forks (bent or wore)

you son need a new wheel :/ and or forks

does not seem like the waterpump. is the clutch set too loose?
usually in wire based clutches, if the clutch cable is set to be too loose, or if it is frayed, and needs replacement, the bike will jump and stall.
check that.

Wrong viscosity. USE 40 WT or less.

• A couple of things could be wrong. The clutch cable center wire could be frayed and catching up on the outer shell.
• The clutch cable is bent or has been hit and crushed.
• The outer and/or inner clutch hub is grooved and the friction plates are hanging up in the grooves.
• You changed the gearbox oil and put in synthetic oil or an oil with "Special" additives. Synthetics can swell the cork on the friction plates and cause problems. Only use 10w40 motor oil in the gearbox.
• A bad needle bearing at the pressure plate or on the shaft
• The clutch was re-assembled incorrectly.

Go to the following website for an exploded view of your clutch. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

750 ml.

You need to remove the right side case cover. This will reveal the clutch and the kick start mechanism. Take a close look and see what is going on. Your dealer should have the parts. If not, go to the website below >
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

You need to remove and clean the carbureator, the needle and seat are dirty and allowing the fuel to leak by and out the overflow. A good cleaning should fix the trouble.

The most likely cause is dirt or some other foreign matter caught on the float valve seat. Other possibilites are a worn float valve, or the float level is set too high.
First, I would turn off the petcock and loosen the drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl. Allow all of the fuel to drain out, then retighten the drain screw (but do not over tighten it) and turn the petcock on. This may solve the problem by allowing the whatever was stuck on the float valve to drain out with the gasoline.
If it still leaks fuel, your next step would be to remove the carburetor, take off the float bowl and remove the float valve. Clean everything thoroughly and inspect the tapered seat on the valve. It is normal to see a faint ring of wear around the tapered seat. Anything deep enough to feel with your fingernail means that the valve needs to be replaced.
With the float valve cleaned - or replaced if worn, you should have no more leakage. It is also a good idea to clean out the fuel strainer that is built into the petcock. Keeping any particles of dirt from reaching the float valve will ensure that the leakage doesn't happen again.

The amount of unspent oil you see dripping from the end of your silencer is lovingly called spooge and it is a sign of a rich fuel condition. The common way to solve this by a jetting procedure. Your manual may be able to explain this, and the different jetting parts that are available, but be careful of errors in your manual. I've spotted at least 2 important ones in my 03 manual! Basically you need to replace/match jets for your particular conditions. Winter riding will be much different than summer for example. And Denver will be much different than somewhere at sea level. Find a jetting procedure for 2 strokes and test different pilot jets, needle jets, and main jets at your track until little to no spooge is seen. Be careful, of course, to also check your spark plug for a cappuccino colored tip to make sure you haven't jetted your carb too "lean". Finally, make sure to run 30:1 fuel mixture consistently through jetting (or 32:1, whatever your oil and bike manufacturer recommend).

Change gearbox oil, install a new spark plug. Check for spark before installing the plug. Remove, dis-assemble, and clean the carb by soaking it in denatured alcohol for 15 minutes then finish with a can of spray carb cleaner. Wear goggles to protect your eyes from the spray.
In stall a new air filter. Remove the gas tank and clean it out. Install an in-line fuel filter to prevent trash from the tank getting into the carb. Use a can of spray starting fluid on the air filter to aid in starting.

This is normal for a two stroke, and nothing to be concerned about. The engine will do this with no load and full throttle, a bit like a govener cutting in. It only becomes a problem if it does it while riding.

its not timing, you have electronic timing. clean the carb out, probably some debris in there.

Hello. The engine and the trans do NOT use the same oil. The engine oil is premixed with the fuel. The transmission oil is filled with the filler plug on the right side of the engine case. Look under the kick stand, see the 850 ml marking? The trans holds that much oil. Either drain the oil and add that exact amount.... OR you can take out the check screw located lower and forward of the oil fill on the case, should look just like a case bolt, but with an aluminum washer to seal it. Once you remove this bolt/plug you can add oil till the oil flow out this hole. Joe

blubber when hot usually means rich mixture. Is the air filter getting dirty?

Usually most gear boxes have a rubber vent tube somwhere, I think you must be submerging this tube while using or washing the bike.

Possibly the choke is getting stuck internally, Even thoug the leaver may be in the closed (normal) position, it may be sticking internally. Try removing the choke and cleaning the passage with some carb cleaner, then replace the lever. The bike could run with a partially cloged choke but would be tough to start when warm due to too much fuel. Another thing to check, when it is hard to start, just after kicking it over a few times, remove the spark plug and see if it is wet with gas. My guess is that's it's soaked. Good luck.