20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Remove the left side cover, look near the middle and you will see a black rectangular box mounted sideways. the main fuse is under the panel on the right side behind the forks and the rest of the fuses are in the crank case under the cover...where you fill the oil.

Remove carbs, clean float needles check they dont stick, and also they control the amount of fuel flowing into the carbsCheck needle ends for progresed ware or dammage

sounds like you have a cracked hose. You will need to replace it

Take cover off the clutch reservoir and check the fluid level. Fill it if necessary. Look for leaks between the clutch lever/reservoir, down the hose to the clutch slave cylinder. If no leaks visible, slowly squeeze clutch lever and release, watching for air or fluid pumping in the reservoir. Repeat until clutch has a solid pull. If the pull doesn't improve and stay good, you'll need to bleed the hose and slave cylinder. Locate the bleed valve at the clutch, squeeze the lever till it's a good solid pull, hold it in, and open the bleed valve. Watch for air bubbles. After doing this several times, you should get nothing but fluid. Refill the reservoir and close it. Good riding

I would be much more inclined to check the choke, it sounds like it's stuck on or at least partially.
Any bike will do this if the choke valves are closed or partially closed even.
You might be surprised that the solution is as simple as turning off the choke (opening the valve) is the solution.
And yes, this would very much so cause the bike to run rich as well.
Good for starting up, not good for running!

Hi, is this after the bike has been away for the winter, these bikes Are designed to run on modern fuels, the intruder normaly runs fine , good advice would be to replace the spark plugs and drain the fuel from the carburettor float bowls by undoing the drain screws in the bottom of each carb, prior to using the bike after the winter, you may also check the condition of the air filter located on the left hand side of the engine under the chrome cover

The weight and how much depends on which bike you have. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

Hello,

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You have a short circuit regulator I expect. Disconnect the regulator and see what happens.

Ebay would carry a manual most likely also be sure to drain oil and gas as well as cleaning the entire bike also you should try to test if its locked or seized up first before rebuilding.

In order to remove the rear wheel assembly, you are going to need a motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device.

1. Stand the bike on the side stand

On the left side of the rear wheel:

2. Remove the two forward facing bolts.
3. Remove the allen head bolt with the wide head.

On the right side of the rear wheel:

4. Remove the brake adjuster nut on the end of the actuating lever.
5. Remove the Toque link nut at the bottom of the wheel assembly.
6. Remove the axle nut (castle nut and cotter pin).

7. Place the motorcycle jack under the swing arm or chassis tubes to stabilize the rear end. Lift the motorcycle until the rear tire is just off the ground.
8. Remove the axle.
9. Remove the wheel from the splined drive gear and place the wheel assembly on the ground.
10. Pull the wheel assembly rearward.

Reverse the process to replace the wheel.

Starting should be accomplished by pressing the starter button with the clutch pulled in, bike in neutral, and choke on. If starting in gear, the sidestand will need to be retracted (up) as well as clutch lever pulled in.
Unfortunately, if the bike has not been used in 10 years, you may have other problems that will cause it not to start, i.e. dead battery, bad fuel, gummed up carburetors, or faulty switches to name a few.
Hope this helps.

one down from neutral is 1st then 1up is neutral +1 is 2nd +1 is 3rd, etc.

You can check the coil with an ohmmeter for continuity. For spark you use one of these
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis19380.html
You can find a similar one at every car shop.

Check the contact from the key, then the contact breaker (if there's power coming to it and if power is coming out to the solenoid). If there is then the problem is either in the solenoid or the high tension circuit.
You could also try to check if fuel really enters the cylinder: crank the engine for a while then smell the spark plug - you should see and smell the gas.

if there are bolts holding the rear fender to the frame at the side of the seat (2 on each side), remove these 4 bolts and offer up the saddlebag brackets. the bolts then go through the ends of the brackets and then back into the frame of the bike and then on in to support the rear fender.
It might be an idea to purchase longer bolts as they may not be long enough with the added depth of the saddlebag bracket.
make sure they are tightened up as the bolts also hold the rear fender to the frame of the bike and if the rear fender is allowed to move it will crack the plastic.
hope this helps

Check the plugs to make sure they are getting gas, try pouring a cap full of gas into each sylinder and see if it fires, chances are the carbs are dirty.

May I suggest a trip to your local library. Cycle repair books should be in 646 stacks of reference.

Thick fluid is the result of poor maintenance. If you have added new fluid and still no pressure you may have a bad pump or blockage. Try flushing the systed with pressure (may have to go to the shop). do not rund it with 0 pressure as internal damage will result very quickly

start learning some japonese n purchase a manual by haynes or other-they take u step by step in every part of the bike-domo arigato