20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder - Page 8 Questions & Answers


Hi, Robbie for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 25, 2019


Batt bad or connection..testit for 12.6 n no less. Inspect ign system fir wornwires or module Buy a clymermanual for complete upkeep

Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 21, 2019


Haynes manuals are the best to learn your ride inside out,every nut,bolt and direction to go. Even if you have never done one. Yard tapes use it when they get stomped. So beat em to it you'd be surprised in how simple ,maybe a pain in your short hairs but theory is...you can add to something,but you can't take away from it to work.

Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 19, 2019


If you follow the positive battery cable to the starter solenoid relay and/or look around your battery storage area you should see somewhere either as part of a small bank or actually on the starter solenoid relay itself - a fuse. Usually the same as most cars take - not the very small square fuses the newer vehicles use, but a normal square fuse. If you pull that out and check it - you may have just blown a fuse. - actually yours may be a little farther away. 7 & 9 are your main fuses. No light/no crank - you should definitely check those fuses. If that's no the issue just comment or reach out and I'll go further with you. All The Best, Justin Lee, 17 South Industries, LLC
neutral-light-light-up-when-in-neutral-4n3y21cmsqpgtsjshk50qfrx-5-0.png

Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 17, 2019


WASTED TYPING, YOU NEVER ASK ANY QUESTION.

Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 16, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Parts Specifications SUZUKI UC125 EPICURO Louis Motorcycle Leisure
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Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 15, 2019


Check if power is leaving solenoid to starter while cranking. If starter is getting power to it's power terminal but not turning over,see if you can turn engine over by hand. Check sprage clutch assy into engine also. On my bike there is a flat washer spacer that can away into engine if I am not careful,can jam in gearing.

Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 15, 2019


check plug conditions and plug gap,secondly try to adjust the air screw or cleaner the carburetor.

Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 11, 2019


Some dealerships can have the key cut from the VIN number, otherwise most locksmiths can cut a motorcycle key.

Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 11, 2019


change spark plugs.....also check timing is correct or not...

Suzuki... | Answered on May 28, 2019


Hi, Fred for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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Suzuki... | Answered on May 24, 2019


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
2. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
3. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
4. Pilot/slow fuel jet clogged.
5. Faulty accelerator pump.
6. Float level too low.
7. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
8. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
9. Fuel line to carburetor kinked or pinched.
10. Fuel filter clogged.
11. Intake manifold leak.
12. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
13. Vacuum line from the intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
15. Multi carburetors not in sync.
16. Faulty fuel pump or internal fuel line has pinholes.
17. Fuel injectors clogged or faulty.
18. Faulty throttle position sensor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/728882-1986-suzuki-sp125-help-please
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJUNl8a_Qj8
Suzuki DR 125 Service Manual
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http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

Suzuki... | Answered on May 20, 2019


Hi, Curt for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $20 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki... | Answered on May 17, 2019


Hi, James for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki... | Answered on May 15, 2019


Hi, J_quast and the usual suspects are:
1. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
2. Loose float bowl screws.
3. Damaged float bowl o-ring.
4. improper fuel level in the float bowl.
5. A worn or dirty inlet valve or seat.
6. Damaged or leaking float assembly.
7. Particle contamination in inlet fitting cavity.
8. Damaged petcock diaphragm allowing fuel to flow through the vacuum line into the combustion chamber.
9. Contaminated fuel tank.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?t=13839
Carbs leaking Here is how to fix it
Suzuki GS850G Service Manual
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Suzuki... | Answered on May 15, 2019


Hi, Mazdamx62fly before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/486385/Battery+not+charging+and+tested+stator+and+rectifier+regulator
How to Fully Troubleshoot Your Motorcycles Charging System MotorcycleMD
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https://www.partsfish.com/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

Suzuki... | Answered on May 15, 2019

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