20 Most Recent 2004 Suzuki DR-Z 125 Questions & Answers

Yes you need to split cases to check the transmission and once you've spitted the cases, it is best to renew the bearings cause is quite a trouble to do that again soon if any of the bearing are about to go bad.

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first mess with the idle screw and see if that helps. if not please let me know so i can help you solve the problem

that axle will really be stuck, use a good contact cleaner and s rubber hammer to push it out

You would have used a wrong part no spark plug or there could be another reason before the fixing of spark plug please give details for further help

have you ever had the carb cleaned if not you may have a patially clogged idle jet remove floatbowl with a small screwdriver remove the smaller of the 2 jets the large one is the main jet remove and clean when held up to a light you should be able to see through it if not it needs to be cleaned a very small piece of wire works well but make sure its not to big or you will ruin the jet they are made of brass and are softer than most metals

i think it is around 15 to 25 psi

With the throttle held wide open, the compression should be between 140 psi and 180 psi. If the compression reads lower that 140 psi, adjust the valve tappet clearances and try again. Insufficient valve tappet clearance is the most common cause of low compression in four stroke engines.

Check the valve adjustment. If a valve is standing open just a little, the compression will be too low to start the engine. Check fuel delivery by dribbling a little gasoline into the carb and try starting the bike. If it starts and runs for a second or two, you're not getting fuel into the cylinders. Check you carb again.

This is nomal for a DRZ 125 because of the short piston skirt. You get much the same annoying sound on the 250/400's also, don't stress, thats just how it is.

6.6 liter (1.7 gal.)

Contact Suzuki directly to inquire.

You can do it that way but most gear boxes use a DTL or UGL and it is a straight weight oil.

No, this type of adjustment could be due to normal wear. If you have the idle up real hi for some reason, that is not good for it. But if it is still idling normal all is ok.

the level should be visible in the glass, get someone to help lean the bike one way and then the other , a small torch can help.

You need to check if the carb is getting enough petrol or if there is no blockage or instead an overflow. If it is 2 stroke then you may need to check valve that sits just after the carb, the one that controls flow into combustion chamber.Disconnect flow of petrol to carb and watch if petrol is coming freely, try to catch the petrol with a small container to reduce wastage.But on overall it is to do with carb, flow of petrol or valve intake.I assume that engine timing is fine here.

With your piston @ TDC (top dead centre)(check the timing marks) all of your cam lobes should be pointing as far away from the valves (or rockers) as possible. Alternatively, the cam lobes can all be very close to opening the valves. This is called "rocking." Once you have set it up like this, you should turn the crank in the direction of rotation to check that none of the valves touch the piston. Keep turning the crank to check the valve are opening and closing at the right times, ie "****, squeeze, bang, blow"