20 Most Recent 2004 Suzuki RM 125 Questions & Answers


Hi, Brensonnano it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
8. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
9. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/832588/Suzuki-Rm125.html?page=47
http://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/rm-125-carb-settings.127809 Suzuki RM125 Owner Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Apr 06, 2019


Hi, Darintaylor2 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/1994-rm-125-front-fork-oil-change.91357 How to Change Your Fork Oil Fork Oil Change for Right Side Up Damping Rod... Suzuki RM125 Owner Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Nov 12, 2018


Hi, Ianmunro596 False Neutral is an annoying state when you drop a gear and instead of slotting the right gear you hit a neutral. This is what exactly you feel when you encounter a False Neutral but in reality, this condition is not that simple. Getting into a neutral state while changing gear of your motorbike is not always "False Neutral", for example; having a gear pattern 1-N-2-3-4-5, while upshifting from 1st gear to 2nd gear if you experience the same condition and you hit the neutral, it is not False Neutral instead you've actually hit the "True Neutral". Let's take it to another level and try to understand what's actually going on in the transmission.
When we say we've experienced a False Neutral, we mean that a Neutral like condition is being experienced while shifting between two gears other than 1st and 2nd in case of above-mentioned gear pattern (1-N-2-3-4-5). In this kind of situation, the engine revs freely and no gear is been engaged so far, in fact, it's a kind of limbo between two gears and no gear has been cogged whatsoever.
Apparently, the False Neutral state does not pose any threat to the engine or the transmission but it is indeed a very frustrating and annoying condition. The False Neutral can be seen on both comparatively older and brand new motorcycles. As far experiencing False Neutral in old bikes is concerned, normally worn out gears and bent shift forks come out as the culprit. But the same can be seen on brand new motorcycles as well and hence this should not be misunderstood as any mechanical fault.
In comparatively newer machines and sometimes even on the brand new motorbikes, the False Neutral can also be seen. Generally, it is witnessed when you try to shift the gear while accelerating the bike you tend to hit the false neutral more, this could happen between any gears and while both up and downshifting. Encountering False Neutral in newer machines is generally caused due to slotting gears in hurry. It is seen that when correct pressure is not given on the gear shifter and one just tap the shifter while pulling the clutch, False Neutral hits.
To avoid false neutral one should preload the shifter before actually pulling the clutch and dropping the gear. This method is found effective by many riders across the world and is considered a remedy for the False Neutral state especially on new bikes. The preloading of the gear shifter helps the shift fork to engage the right gear and one can actually feel the meshing of gears happening.
While False Neutral does not seem fatal for the engine or transmission but the overall experience could lead to a disaster depending on the timing of the event. As the false neutral generally occurs at high acceleration, it is likely that one is doing the maneuver while overtaking any vehicle and hitting a false neutral at a crucial condition like this could be fatal.
Another thing that needs to be kept in mind is once you hit the false neutral, try to get it back in the slot by upshifting (e.g.; from 3rd to 4th or from 2nd to 3rd) and always avoid doing downshifting (e.g.; from 4th- 3rd or from 3rd to 2nd). This is very important and can be understood by assuming you are experiencing the false neutral while making a cornering maneuver. If you downshift to get out of the false neutral, there are full chances of the rear wheel lock and you will never want this to happen while you are at the corner of the road.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Race-Shop,42/RM-125-transmission-driving-me-nuts,1248950
https://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/rm125-gearbox-problems.37404
Suzuki RM125 Owner Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Nov 12, 2018


Hi, Dblizzard for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Rm 125 axle torque specs http://www.venold.com/tl1000s/specs/torque_specs.html Suzuki RM125 Owner Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Nov 12, 2018


Hi, Andreaferry I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH---WHINE
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
5. Clutches---CHATTER---GRIND
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fenders---SCRAPE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
11. Gears---WHINE
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
16. Pistons---SLAP
17. Power Valves---CLINK---RATTLE
18. Radiators---GURGLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
21. Relays---CLICK---BUZZ
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
25. Speedometers---bzzz
26. Starters---CLICK
27. Starter Clutch---GRIND---WHIRR
28. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Race-Shop,42/RM125-rattle,1221813
https://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/kx250-noise-with-clutch-out.124528
https://community.spiceworks.com/topic/99321-motorbike-engine-ticking-noise
Suzuki RM125 Owner Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Nov 12, 2018


Hi, Daniel and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/rm125-cuts-in-and-out.100816 RM125 Cutting out after Jumps Whoops Suzuki RM125 Owner Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Nov 12, 2018


Hi, Flyinpiper98 after careful deliberation 4 out 5 Suzuki Gods give this one a thumbs up, but just to be on the safe side you should give your local dealer's parts/service department a call to confirm.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Suzuki RM125 Owner Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki
2004 Suzuki RM 125 Motorcycle Specs
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_RM_series

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Nov 12, 2018


Hi, Nicolek either you have transmission issues or your clutch is not engaging and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch cable adjusted too tight.
2. Pressure plate center screw adjusted too tight
3. A broken clutch rod.
4. Slave cylinder piston stuck.
5. Clutch plate missing from the clutch pack.
6. Clutch plates have worn past minimum specifications.
7. Clutch plates crystallized due to incompatible oil.
8. Broken transmission shafts or gears.
9. Rear drive belt or chain broke.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Clutch wont engage RM125 2003 suzuki rm 125 CLUTCH problem Suzuki RM125 Owner Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Nov 12, 2018


Hi, Anonymous this is a rather common scenario when working on carburetors the following procedure has always worked for me.
1. You will need to place the carburetor in a medium sized shop vice that has plastic or aluminum jaw covers to keep from garfing the soft edges of the carburetor body, wood will do in a pinch, insert the carburetor on the machined flat intake and exit sides of the body.
2. Place a steel flat edged punch or drift over the damaged screw head that covers the entire head and hit it with a couple of sharp blows with a steel or brass hammer. This will accomplish 2 things, first, it will crush the head of the screw back into a place where you can visibly see the fresh Phillips head depression, second, it will send a shock wave through the screw breaking the corrosion-Loctite-rust etc. that binds the screw to the carburetor.
3. Using the correct-proper size Phillips screwdriver, give it a hard quick snap to loosen and remove the screw.
4. If the screw strips again you will need to use a propane torch to heat the screw in a circular motion for about 15 seconds and repeat steps 2 and 3. A manual hammer type impact driver and proper bit size may be used instead of the screwdriver.
5. If all of the above does not work use a hammer and "sharp" chisel on the edge of the screw to loosen and beat it into submission.
6. If you are not comfortable with the above procedure or do not have the proper tools, take the carburetor to your local Dealership or reputable independent shop.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/597678-drz125-carb-set-up-service-incl-air-screw
How to Remove Stripped Carburetor Phillips Screws on Bowls
Suzuki RM125 Owner Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Nov 12, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Replacing Clutch Spring Bolts Torque
Suzuki RM 125 Clutch Basket Refurb
Suzuki RM125 Owner Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Nov 12, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Torque specs rm125 head cylinder
https://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/torque-specs-for-rm-125-head.159978
Suzuki RM125 Owner Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Nov 10, 2018


Hi, Anonymous engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
4. For 2 strokes make sure the power valve is adjusted properly.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Rm125 can rev into powerband https://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/1999-kx-125-hesitation-right-before-powerband-help.70068 Suzuki RM125 Owner Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Nov 10, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
98 RM 125 tune up Suzuki Rm125 20042007 Tusk Tune up Kit Air Filter Resistor Spark Plug RM... Suzuki RM125 Owner Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Nov 10, 2018


Hi, Jeremy for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Rm125 wont idle
RM 125 IDLE ADJUSTMENT
http://www.crservice.dk/Suzuki%20cross/RM125/RM125K7_01A.pdf
OEM parts for Suzuki
Suzuki motorcycle and ATV owner manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Aug 01, 2017


We need more details about how it runs, for how long, and how it stops.

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Jun 10, 2014


Stuck in 2nd? Is your clutch slipping? When you have the clutch pulled in, and you try to start it, does the bike surge forward? If so, adjust clutch.

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Apr 21, 2014


About halfway down the clutch cable is an adjustment, covered by an accordian boot.

Slide the boot up out of the way, and at the adjuster, loosen the lock nut, and shorten the adjuster as short as possible.

Go back to the clutch pressure plate you seen under the primary cover.
In the center is an allen head screw with a lock nut around it.

Loosen the lock nut, and turn the allen head out about 1/2 - 3/4 turn.

Slowly turn it back in until you just feel it touch something. This is the adjustment screw touching the pushrod that moves the pressure plate out, to allow the clutch to release. Make sure the lock nut is unscrewed enough that it is not hitting the plate, causing the adjustment screw to feel like it stopped.

Again, with the adjustment screw JUST lightly touching, unscrew it 1/2 to 1 full turn.
Hole the screw from turning while you tighten the lock nut (about 20 ft/lbs torque, slightly more than spark plugs).

Now, go back to the cable adjuster, and unscrew it so the adjuster lengthens.
You want to adjust it so there is just a little free play at the clutch lever.
At the clutch lever, pull the cable away from it just enough to remove any free play. You're NOT trying to pull the cable off! LIGHTLY pull just to remove slack!

Proper adjustment is when the gap created by the above (between cable end and clutch lever cable holder/mount) is 1/16" - 1/8", go back and tighten cable adjustment lock nut, while holding the adjuster from turning.
3 wrenches help, 2 in one hand to hold the two adjuster hexes, and a 3rd one to tighten the lock nut.

Pull the clutch lever 3-5 times to insure the clutch release ramp balls are seated, and recheck the cable gap at the clutch lever.

If this doesn't work, the clutch plates probably got "welded" together (not literally, but a term used to indicate they are stuck together).

Then you'll have to tear the clutch pack apart to free up/inspect the plates.
A special clutch diaphram spring tool is needed for this.

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Mar 01, 2014


can put a larger sprocket on back or smaller sprocket on front. will gain low end acceleration but may loose top end speed

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Mar 01, 2013


The following possibility for your problems are mention below kindly check
1. Check the Engine Acceleration 2. Clean the plug 3. Check for any blockage in silencer 4. Clean the carbonizer
Kindly rate my help++ Thank you

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Oct 26, 2012


either valves are being held open by badly adjusted tappets or the wrong piston in relation to the crank throw ,did you change the con rod at the same time if so then ot could be a shorter con rod giving the compression ratio

2004 Suzuki RM... | Answered on Nov 29, 2011

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