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2004 Suzuki RM 125 - Page 5 Questions & Answers
Where can i get an
I'm assuming you meant inner basket-not "gasket". It's actually called an inner drive hub, and Suzuki lists a current part number 21411-43D04. Should be about 70 bucks from your dealer. Don't buy a used clutch part of any sort-they're probably notched as bad or worse than the one you have. Good luck!
I need to know how
Both the air and pilot screws should be one and one-half turns outward from a lightly seated position. That is the factory setting. Adjust the idle speed from there. Please rate my answer. Thanks!
My 97' rm 125 after
The description given indicates a lean fuel / air mixture. This is usually caused by rubber seals going bad between the carb and the cylinder. Air that has not gone through the carb is mixing with the air/fuel that has gone through. First check that the two air vent hoses coming from the center of the carb fit tight. Then that the carb fittings at the front of the carb are tight and that the fitting on the cylinder is tight. If the mounts are tight the seals are leaking. Replace any gaskets, "O" ring seals and rubber manifold fittings between the carb and cylinder.
I have a RM 125
It sounds like the bike has a bent shift fork. That is a bummer because it is an expensive fix. The entire engine gets torn down just to get to the bad shift fork. This is not a recommended repair for the novice mechanic. Confirm my diagnosis at your local Suzuki shop.
I noticed a slight noting
it could be alot do you ride one wheel alot?? that keeps the oil from being moved in the motor, whens the last time you checked the oil? did you miss a shift and over rev the bike, could have hit a vavle. sounds to me your best bet is getting someone to look at it
I have and 1998 rm
Try a carb service and get the idle mix adjusted between the oxygen and fuel mix feed first
I have a 95 rm
If your fouling plugs, my guess is that your premix isnt quite right and possibly your piston rings are on their way out. BR8/9 should be running your bike fine, we use BR9's in our bikes and we have no proplems. As for your powerband issue, sounds like a jetting problem. Could possibly be a clogged jet. Id suggest stripping the carb and cleaning it out, blow through all the jets, with WD40 or similar so that you know they are free and clear. Put it back together and give it a try.
Mista B.
I have a 1994 Rm
No, put it in gear, pull in the clutch and push it. It may drag at first but then it should break loose and roll with little friction. You should also be able to kick it in gear with the clutch held in. This will tell you if it disengages but not if it will hold under heat and hard acceleration. So I guess the answer really is that you can check half of what a clutch should do. Good luck.
Trying to hook up a
an RM is an off road bike so it doesnt have a charging system or battery. the easiest way to do it is to go total loss. fit a battery somewhere and charge it up every now and then, dont let it get too drained though, they dont like it.
Hi how much gearbox
It takes just one gearbox, don't try to fit two.
You can probably ask
hereor look in the manual.
I have a 1998 suzuki
if you can turn it over that easy then yes. to confirm it tip a thimble of oil down the spark plug hole and the compression should come back temporarily.
Hey ive got a rm
Remove the exhaust and see if the bike will start. The pipe could be plugged up with mud at the end of the pipe or an internal collapse in the pipe could be stopping the exhaust from exiting the pipe.
I need to refix the
The best solution is find yourself another tank, i had the same problem on a yamaha, i used araldite but this is only a short term fix as i had to remove it again and it did not come out, i ended up pulling the plastic out (part of the tank) and putting a hole in the tank, i found a cheap secondhand tank on the internet, if you are going to keep the bike, fix it right!!!
Was told that my lower
Hi, spin the engine, with the piston removed hold onto the top of the con rod and start to turn it keep spining it and listen how quiet and smooth it is, the main bearings when worn will sound noisy and feel rough, the big end may lock up when worn,bring the con rod to the top, in the middle of the big end where the pin holds it to the crankshaft, you will see a cut through the rod where the bearing is visible inspect the bearing for condition, the bearings are held in a cage which when worn breaks and the rolers become loose, this may cause the bearing to lock, also check for up and down movement, at all parts of the stroke
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