2004 Suzuki RM 125 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

We need more details about how it runs, for how long, and how it stops.

Stuck in 2nd? Is your clutch slipping? When you have the clutch pulled in, and you try to start it, does the bike surge forward? If so, adjust clutch.

About halfway down the clutch cable is an adjustment, covered by an accordian boot. Slide the boot up out of the way, and at the adjuster, loosen the lock nut, and shorten the adjuster as short as possible. Go back to the clutch pressure plate you seen under the primary cover. In the center is an allen head screw with a lock nut around it. Loosen the lock nut, and turn the allen head out about 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Slowly turn it back in until you just feel it touch something. This is the adjustment screw touching the pushrod that moves the pressure plate out, to allow the clutch to release. Make sure the lock nut is unscrewed enough that it is not hitting the plate, causing the adjustment screw to feel like it stopped. Again, with the adjustment screw JUST lightly touching, unscrew it 1/2 to 1 full turn. Hole the screw from turning while you tighten the lock nut (about 20 ft/lbs torque, slightly more than spark plugs). Now, go back to the cable adjuster, and unscrew it so the adjuster lengthens. You want to adjust it so there is just a little free play at the clutch lever. At the clutch lever, pull the cable away from it just enough to remove any free play. You're NOT trying to pull the cable off! LIGHTLY pull just to remove slack! Proper adjustment is when the gap created by the above (between cable end and clutch lever cable holder/mount) is 1/16" - 1/8", go back and tighten cable adjustment lock nut, while holding the adjuster from turning. 3 wrenches help, 2 in one hand to hold the two adjuster hexes, and a 3rd one to tighten the lock nut. Pull the clutch lever 3-5 times to insure the clutch release ramp balls are seated, and recheck the cable gap at the clutch lever. If this doesn't work, the clutch plates probably got "welded" together (not literally, but a term used to indicate they are stuck together). Then you'll have to tear the clutch pack apart to free up/inspect the plates. A special clutch diaphram spring tool is needed for this.

can put a larger sprocket on back or smaller sprocket on front. will gain low end acceleration but may loose top end speed

The following possibility for your problems are mention below kindly check
1. Check the Engine Acceleration 2. Clean the plug 3. Check for any blockage in silencer 4. Clean the carbonizer
Kindly rate my help++ Thank you

Hi check all gaskets mostly head gasket, spread some thin oil and turn your engine and check for bubles. maybe you need to re-tightning head bolts with the correct torquegood luck

either valves are being held open by badly adjusted tappets or the wrong piston in relation to the crank throw ,did you change the con rod at the same time if so then ot could be a shorter con rod giving the compression ratio

You need to bleed the brakes to get all of the air bubbles out. Get a buddy to help you out. Make sure the reservoir is filled, put a hose on the bleed valve on the brake caliper and put it into a brake fluid bottle. Crack the bleed valve loose on the brake caliper and have your buddy pump the brake handle several times and then hold it in while you tighten up the bleed valve. Do this several times until you no longer see air bubbles in the tube running from the bleed valve to the brake fluid bottle. Be sure to check the reservoir frequently and keep it topped off.

Why can't you just polish the inside of the cylinder head a bit? You should replace the cylinder head gasket.

You've likely burned out the clutch and it'll need to be replaced.
If you have to rev it that high to get power, your rings may be shot (bad compression).
Make sure your choke isn't stuck on.

no 06 try the 2000



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Sounds like an inlet valve is sticking open. You have to disassemble the carb and find the cause. Overflow is too much fuel. Fix this before using or running the machine, as you are a fire hazard.

Your discription indicates a bent shift fork in the gearbox. The engine will need to be torn down then the center case will need to be split to get to the forks. Bummer. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

You may simply just need to adjust your clutch cable. Make sure it feels like your pulling on something, there should be some resistance. Since you'll be adjusting it while the plates are cold you need to leave some free play in the lever or when your clutch pack gets hot it will start slipping and you'll end up with a smoked clutch. What I mean is grab the lever and pull it in until you start feeling resistance and then adjust it our until there is maybe a quarter inch of free play. Hope it helps. If its not that then you've got some internal problems with your plates and fibers not separating correctly.

Hi, you might find the nut holding the clutch basket onto the shaft has come loose, so instead of pulling the clutch plates apart you are just pulling the clutch basket along the shaft.
or if the bike has sat for a while you might find the clutch plates have stuck together, this isn't that rare, you can start the bike and roll it along at about 1st gear speed, then click it into gear, then pull the clutch in and rev the engine, this should make the plates loose again. hope this helps, please rate, thanks, good luck

yes that is correct. 100ml to 5 liters of petrol, will give you a 50:1 mix Same will work for your rm 2 stroke.
I would recomend a synthetic 2 stroke oil for a 50:1 mix.

there really is not a way to "lower" the back suspension but you can make it softer by loosening the rings for the spring around the shock there are two rings both next to each other one it to keep the other/bottom one tight so you will need to either get the special to to loosen them or use a big flat head screw driver and a small hammer and tap the teeth on the ring to loosen you will tap from right side of bike on front of shock once you have loosened them the top ring will need to be tightened back down on the bottom ring hope this helps message if you need anything else good luck

2001- 2006 rm125 and 2001- 2006 rm and rmz 250 about $50.00 for new,should find a used one on ebay

sounds like the bike is in need of new piston rings especially if that much oil is blowing on such a newer bike. if the crankcase is not overfilled, then focus on rings especially if the sparkplug is oily too.

.32 works great