20 Most Recent 2004 Suzuki RM-Z 250 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

It's in the top of the cylinder head. Remove the seat then the gas tank, you should see the spark plug cap sticking up out of the cylinder head then. Pull it off by the cap not the wire. Use a spark plug socket to remove it and replace with the factory plug. Check the gap on the new plug with a wire gauge. Carefully put the plug back down in the hole with the plug in the socket. Screw in with your fingers til it's hand tight. Tighten 3/4 turn with the ratchet.

i just had the same problem on my 04 its the valves they need to be adjusted

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slides back in the throat of the carbs, Move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. It may be that you will wind up going two notches. Try one notch first. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

drain the oil(all of it) and put on a new filter.sounds to me like you are missing a gasket to the crank case.

U NEED TO SET THE CLUTCH WIRE BOLT LOSE OR TIGHT IT BOLT IT WILL BE OK

HMMM ! not real familiar with this model,but first of all you'll need to get yourself a key cut by taking the serial number from the ignition barrell and your model /year number to a locksmith.Then charge the battery to full.then you'll need to find out if the charging system is working.Quickest way to do this is take a static and a live reading of battery volts accross the battery with a multi-meter the live reading should be a tad more than the static reading. Also it`s possible that you may have disloged some dirt/grit from the intake when you spayed carb cleaner and it has blocked one of the low speed air jets or pilot jet.......Good luck ..KEN from NAIDIA....HHHHHEEEEEE!!!!!! ......Flabbycat

If the emblems are decals, you can heat them with a hair dryer and peel them off with a credit card. If they're metal, I would think it's easier to take off the metal emblems and have the original tank repainted, or at least touched up.

rod bearing or thrown rod

Carb is not a pump. Carbs depend on suction and pressure to operate. If you are not getting fuel, the fuel pump may not be delivering the fuel to the carb or the carb may not be allowing the fuel in due to a stuck float valve or a dirty jet. I'm leaning toward a dirty jet or bad fuel.

so here is the answer straight from the manual:

Intake: 0.09 - 0.16 mm (0.004 - 0.006 in)

Exhaust: 0.17 - 0.24 mm (0.006 - 0.009 in)

this particular year was very unusual because it removed the multiple inputs from magnetos and just went with a single (2 wire) signal coil (green, black) which will ultimatly go into the left side case behind the pull start. the white/blue wire goes directly to the coil. the orange wire goes to the ignition and will have 12 volts when the ignition is powered on, then go to ground with ignition off. the black/white is constant ground. this year was different because the cdi let the regulator do all the converting from ac to dc. it is also one of the haardest years to find a box for used.

The bike has a slightly bent shift fork. The repair requires a complete engine teardown. Special tools needed include a torque wrench, impact driver, flywheel puller, and case splitter. This repair is not recommended for the novice mechanic. There are a lot of parts involved and just one mess up can force you to take the engine in a basket and plead with the dealer to reassemble the parts. The dealer will charge you more to repair a basket of parts than if you had just let them do the repair from the start. Below is a generic diagram showing how the shift forks, ( your bike has three ), move slider gears left and right to engage other gears. Please rate my answer.

you can do it just need patience and time, if your motorcycle has more than one carburetor be sure not to interchange the parts because there are jets not in the same number. thanks!

Compare the old cable to the new cable. The outside casings should be the same length and the Inside cable should also be the same length. The dealer may have supplied you with the wrong cable. If the cable is the correct one then check the positioning of the clutch release cam.

its normaley located under the seat on the frame

Possible you ran out of fluid before refilling...or maybe didn't get bleeder closed tight when you released brake pedal, and some air got in the lines. I'd just bleed it again.

Yes, it sounds like a complete engine gearbox strip!

you may expect no lower than 10 hours because you have to remove motor and dissasembled and you may expect to reshim a valve or two that is too tight at the same time.....we rebuilt a kx 250f 2008 last week and rebuilt the crankshaft and change valve guide and reangle valve seat for 12 hours r&r.....

The site listed below has exploded view diagrams of all sections of your bike with parts named. This will show location of your idle screw. The diagrams will also show how the kicklever goes together.
Cheers.

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-rm250-1990-l_model14078/partslist/

it depends on what you have for a suzuki ? if you have a road cruiser, you have to remove lower
case cover on left side of motor, this will expose linkage adjustment rod. do not try too much
adjustment, work with it little at a time. it has a wet clutch.