2004 Suzuki GS 500 F - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Its not adjustable- if theres a flat spot it needs a very good cleaning or replacement. Likley a replacement as they are a potentiometer and sometimes do wear at often used spots

Have you checked the coils

check the starter button and the relay and the fuse box , also the side stand safety switch if fitted !

its ya fuse

weak wires are sometimes the cause of loss of power,if they have been really hot from trying to start and become higher in resistance. looking at the ends of wires where connection are sometimes can reveal bluing of the copper inside (signs of heat). loose cable ends look good but dont perform well.Test charging system for proper charge output to voltage reg. and battery.Short tolerance to load under start conditions could be due to not being charged at high enough volts from charging system. (too many chicken lites or other stuff drawing current)

Fit top gear and try to turn the rear wheel by hands ,kick start ,take spark plugs out spray your cylinders with vallvoline EGR valve spray ,or CRCor wd-40 or Degreaser Heavy Duty longer you don't fit the spark plugs back in dray the cylinders start 10 to 15 times to avoid hydraulics lube after the top end of the cylinders with thin oil .

Hi, if you are ok doing this type of job, then its quite easy to fit a cable, remove the seat, undo the 2 bolts securing the fuel tank and prop up the back end of the fuel tank, remove the gear change lever by removing the 10mm bolt, remove all the screws holding the sprocket caseing, next comes the cable with the case still on the engine undo the locking nut on the clutch cable, (12 mm), next get the new cable and lay it along side the whole length of the old cable and fasten it to the frame where ness, screw in the addjuster all the way at the clutch lever and align the slot for cable removal from the lever now remove the sprocket cover and old cable with it, undo the cable adduster all the way until it is removed from the case, push the cable wire back to remove it from the clutch control arm inside the case, try not to remove the arm as it will fit back in more than 1 position, retaining the original position is important, you can then refit the new cable into the arm a small amount of grease on the cable nipple will help, replace the case back onto the engine it should fit flush with no effort, replace all the screws, it important they are fitted in accordance, so place them loosly in the holes they should all protude around the same amount, if any are shorter or longer move them around untill correct. Once happy tighten them up, connect the cable at the control lever on the handlebar and then remove all the slack from the cable at both ends untill you have around 5mm free play at the handlebar end, replace gear change lever, and all other fixings.

hi fairly easy job, drain engine oil,, undo all the fixing screws, remove cluth cover, +clean away old gasket, it is important you clean this to a high standard on both faces using a sharp object like chissel or gasket scraper, do not make deep markings in cases, when sattisfied replace gasket on a clean dry surface, do not use sealent as this will soften the gasket and in may push out, if you have damaged case surfaces then you may apply a small amount of sealent around the affected area, replace all screws and tighten aprox 6ftlbs however feel how tight they are on removal and retighten to same torque, regards paul

The Tach and speedo lights are connected together. They should both light the moment ignition is switched to "On". The taillight and headlamp's sidelight should also light up at the same time.
If the lights mentioned come on then the problem is at the bulb in the rear of the tach itself.
First try switching the tach and speedo bulbs to confirm that it is the bulb. If not the bulb check wiring.
The grey wire on the connector is the power feed to the bulbs. See that you have 12V on this line The black/white is the earth line for these 2 bulbs and also for the high beam indicator. Connecting 12V to between the black/white and the grey will let the speedo and tach light up.
As for the low beam the white wire on the back of the headlamp supplies power to the low beam. If you have 12V on this line with the handlebar switch set to low beam, then you have a blown low beam filament and the bulb needs replacement. With no power to this line when switched to low beam, check the wire between the switch and headlamp for continuity. I'm assuming the high beam works so if you've still not solved the problem at this point then the switch needs repair or replacing.
Please leave a comment if you need further assistance.

I am assuming that the following is the question you had asked :
"i have had blinker unit and blinkers replaced by auto electrician and since that job when i brake while riding at night my headlight and my tail light both flick off and on which is a bit disconcerting ---- possible solution please?"
I will attempt to assist but need to know do the head and taillight flash on and off as if like a blinker/indicator or do the just go out when you activate the brakes? If so which brake - front or rear or both?
Furthermore it would be helpful if you have a multimeter or at least a test lamp handy.
Use the "add a comment" function
First off, there is a yellow/white wire leading from the dimmer switch on the left handlebar. Disconnect this wire from the switch. It should have a single line connector which just pulls apart. With the bike running pull the brake and test the voltage at the wire end(not the switch end). Is there voltage with the brake lever pulled?

check fuel filters in line and tank

I assume the engine is not seized and the battery is charged and good. Unplug the two small wires going to the starter solenoid and push the starter button . With a voltage meter on the wires from the harness you should have continuity.Reconnect the wires. Push the starter button, if you hear a click from the solenoid the button is good. Now , jump the two cable posts on the starter solenoid. If the starter works you have a bad solenoid. If you push the starter button and tap on the starter with a plastic hammer and the starter works, you need new starter brushes. If anything else in the starter is keeping it from working you need a new starter , the starter parts are not available from the manufacturer.

sounds to me like you crossed some wires in the process of you wiring the neon. The dominant wire always wins. Go through all of the wiring and make sure that all is hooked up correctly and that none of the wires are crossed. If i were you i would find the wiring diagram and run through the ignition. Best of luck to you! And those are nice bikes. :)

0.025"

You have a crankcase breather hose that may be blocked, allowing excessive oil pressure to push oil out. It should be routed to the airbox. This may also be the overflow hose you are speaking about. Your oil type may not be suited to a motorcycle engine, automotive oils are NOT suitable for bike engines for many reasons, notably shared gearbox and engine oil and a wet clutch. Check function of the oil pressure switch as this should send a signal of loss or excessive oil pressure. Check your manual for correct weight and quantity and type of oil filter needed. The oil level is indicated on the stem of the oil filler cap.
Cheers.

sounds like it.

Try replacing the indicator relay, the fuse won't just go unless the circuit has been overloaded (unlikely if you haven't touched it) the relay will be somewhere by the headlight, as for the fuses they usually are located to the left or right below where your handle bars are (under the plastic cover/fairing)

Fuse boxes on most bikes are near to the battery.

did the filiment in the bulb break or is there a loose wire

Assuming that each signal only had two wires, it sounds like you are missing a ground on the side that makes all the lights flash. With 12vdc system, when you are missing a ground, the lights that are missing the ground will use the other lights on the circuit to ground themselves.