Top 20 2004 Suzuki GSX-R 600 Questions & Answers

I had the same problem and myself, my wife and friend all agreed it was coming from where the air filter at the rear of the bike is located. what it was was the front wheel brake disk, I bought new pads and tried to wear them in but it was hopeless and it sounded like scrape gap scrape gap... liken to what a buckled wheel sounds like on a push bike when hitting the brake blocks. I was told there was no solution and a new disk was over £100 which i didnt have. my friend being an expert on everything in the known and unknown universe said oh yeah that's cast iron and nothing I do will make even a scratch on it, I could not repair it. so I tried with my electric sander some wet n dry and i attached the disk to my old grinder to make it spin. it was very loud but i sanded iy for quite some time and sadly made no difference but undeterred I removed it and tried again but again no difference so after a think i removed it a 3rd time and layed it flat on an old board i had I screwed it down through 3 holes and got my flat sander out and used some medium grade (120) sand paper for multi surfacaces and immediately i saw black metal filings so to speak. I put my weight on it and sanded for around 2 minutes I did it as best I could with my eyes. when replaced the grinding sound was gone, there was no resistance and the brakes work perfectly, that was 3 years ago when my bike was just 1 year old and it is perfect today still. might be well off but check that and see. I hope this helped you :)

It means you have a problem with the fuel injection system if you can start the bike then take it to a Suzuki mechanic. If the F1 is full on i.e.not flashing then the bike will not start normally. You still have a fuel system problem but now you have to find a way of getting it to a Suzuki mechanic. You should have a red light showing near the neutral indicator light.

Typically the flashing indicator would suggest that a maintenance interval is due/missed. May be a minor issue with the fuel injector that is not affecting performance, but the ECU recognizes that not all is 100%. A code reader may provide more information. You local dealer should be able to at least tell you if it is major/minor at little to no cost if you've got a good relationship with the dealer. Your manual might also have a troubleshooting section in the back explaining the different indicators and their actions.

First, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL!!!! Drain primary fluid, remove outer primary cover. On the bolt holding the starter gear on, flatten the tab on the lack washer, and remove the bolt. I use a flat blade screwdriver behind the gear, and hold it out to engage the teeth of the clutch shell to keep it from turning while undoing bolt. If you're completely removing starter, undo the wiring going to it. If you just need to move it a little out of the way, you might be able to leave the wires attached. Remove two bolts holding starter to back side of inner primary cover. Pull starter out, turning as necessary to clear.

if opil was good and not in too long, be ok, really you need not change anything, start it, and let it run till hot wait to see if fan kicks in, check water first though, really mate should be all ok, where are you, u in UK

Check the fuel, old fuel can degrade and become useless. Has the bike a fuel tap and has it gone onto reserve. Make sure the engine kill switch is in run position. Remove a spark plug and see if you have a spark by refitting it into the cap and touching the thread to the engine. Please use a thick glove to avoid a shock. Do you have to operate the clutch lever to start the bike my 2005 Suzi SV works this way. If you do have to depress the clutch lever it may be the switch that the lever operates has got sticky or failed.

I think the electric motor is to blame. but check an expert to fix it

2 things 2 check carb needle and seat in bowl, or plug wires grd. out.let me know.

Pinched wire in the harness causing no ignition, bad battery connections, etc

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petcock screen is clogged, float needles are clogged fuel line is hooked to bung hole.

check at any service is my advice

Do you have an aftermarket pipe or air filter? It sounds like the bike has a lean spot,and needs to be re-jetted.

Sounds like the thermostat has had it! cheers Simon

If you lost the key, it would be alot cheaper to take the switch to a locksmith and have them cut a key. that's what I did today and it cost me $20.00

Sorry to say, your battery is dead. The reading you got was under no load conditions. Put a load of about 50 amps across it and the voltage will probably fall to just about nothing if even your lights are pulling it down to probably about 8 volts. Only one solution here - you have to replace the battery.

It sounds like your oil rings are not doing their job of keeping oil out of the combustion area of the cylinder.
Solution may require ring replacement.

hi there could you be more specific have you no battery power do the lights work is there petrol in it most starting issues come from the battery so would start there first check the battery its just under the seat and easy to take out for a charge if its not the battery then it could be the starter if your getting an fI then thats another issue but be handy if ya could post some more info

will need paddock stands to hold up the bike and is quite simple really just undo the nut think its a 27 or something no need to mess with the calipers when on the stand it will just slip off a bit of grease on the axle when putting it back in be handy

my suzuki gsx600f runs smooth as a nut in any gear up to 7500revs then it holds back like as if I 'm flicking the on & off switch on and off quickly any ideas