Top 20 2004 Suzuki GSX-R 750 Questions & Answers

If the porcelain part is gone but all of the metal is still there you can take it out with a socket wrench. If just the threads are left it can be removed with a large screw extractor.

Drain the oil and Pull the clutch cover off. That rod connects to the clutch push button. sounds like it fell out. Undo all the little clutch cover bolts. Carefully pull the cover off leaving all the clutch plates in a stack as some are different to others usually the first or last plate .Check the center of this plate as that is where the button usually is. Put it all back together and check clutch with cover off. You should see it move away as you pull the lever. Make sure you back off your clutch first. Hope this helps cheers

Instructions

1. • 1 Measure the chain's tension with a ruler. Move the center point of the bottom half of the drive chain with your hand. Take a measurement of the chain's movement as you push the chain up and down as far as it will go. The chain should have a free range of movement between 0.8 to 1.2 inches. If the chain's free range is greater than 1.2 inches, you need to tighten the chain. Alternatively, loosen the chain if it has less than 0.8 inches of free movement.
   • 2 Loosen the large nut on the left side of the rear axle with a 32 mm socket and a socket wrench. If more leverage is needed to loosen the nut, use a long-handled breaker bar.
   • 3 Loosen the chain adjuster blocks on both side of the rear swing arm with a pair of 10 mm wrenches. Hold the blocks' adjustment bolt's head steady with one wrench and loosen the bolt's lock nut with the other wrench.
   • 4 Turn both adjustment bolts an equal number of turns with a 10 mm wrench to adjust the chain's tension. Turn the adjustment bolts clockwise to loosen the chain, or counterclockwise to tighten the chain. Check that the edge of both chain adjuster blocks are evenly aligned with the adjustment marks imprinted on the swing arm.
   • 5 Check the chain's range of free movement again. Make adjustments as needed until the chain has a free range of movement between 0.8 and 1.2 inches.
   • 6 Hold the adjustment bolts steady with a 10 mm wrench and tighten their lock nuts against the chain adjuster blocks with a second 10 mm wrench. Tighten the axle nut to 72.5 foot-pounds with a 32 mm socket and a torque wrench. Check the chain's tension again.

There could be many issues causing no spark on a 04 GSXR750. Check for battery voltage on the orange/ white wire at each coil. If none this model has a history of a failed right hand handlebar switch and or connector. Ignition voltage passes through this switch. Also check the main harness connector under the left side fairing panel near the area of the turnsignal for internally broken or corroded wires. If all this is good check the signal generator(crank position sensor) output voltage with a "peak reading " voltmeter. This is a special type of meter or attachment that must be used. The voltage should be 3-7 volts DC at cranking speed. Good luck.

Hi, my thoughts are directed more towards the calipers, pads, or even a worn or warped disc, if you still have the rubber brake lines fitted, when you have a reduced brake effort, clamp your brake line as close to the master cylinder as poss with a pipe clamp or a pair of smooth jaw. Grips. If your mastercylinder is faulty the feel in the lever will remain the same with or without the clamped lines, if the feel of the lever is verry firm with no travel the mastercylinder is holding pressure, you can then try moving the clamp further down the line, rechecking the feel at the lever at different points

i had the same problem when i first got mine it is by the radiator . when you look into the right side fairing where the radiator is look in front of the radiator running long ways with your bike up against the fairings

I have seen a lot of problems with the wiring connections at the front connectors that are on the right hand side of the bike under the right lower fairing. The connectors are just under the right side air duct but you have to remove the right fairing to access. if you are running higher wattage bulbs the ground connection ( Black w white Wire ) can burn at the wiring harness connector. Disconnect all of the harness connectors under the air duct and check to see if they are burnt inside. if so, repair and check again.
Thanks and I hope that this helps.
Steve

You are operating the motorcycle on its center stand and in gear without a load so you are going to get a huge amount of lash from the chain and more importantly in the clutch assembly. It's really not a good idea to start it up and run it through the gears without a load on it, just not wise.

If you want the motorcycle to survive the cold months purchase some fuel stabilizer here is a web site with a good one page read.

http://www.thefarm.org/charities/i4at/surv/sta-bil.htm

Add the correct amount to what the tank has in it (you can guess) put the cap back on an shaker it up a little my sloshing the gas around a little to get a good mix.Fire up the motorcycle and leave it in neutral run it long enough to get it up to temperature and have the fuel stabilizer go through the fuel system. Shut it off and the only thing you need to attend to is the battery make sure it has a charge in it by purchasing a trickle charger. I leave my bike alone all winter after using the fuel stabilizer in it for a tank of gas. It's parked in my studio under cover and left till spring, the room never gets below 20c or 68F and charge the battery in the spring.

Cheers have a great day

find the hot or live wire and leave that alone then twist the rest together and touch them to the hot wire till it starts then remove the hot wire away from others and be sure not to let it ground out after that if the rest of the wires are together light and speedo should work

Yes Sensor seems to be faulty before replacing make sure sensor wire is not loose .

10w40 synthetic oil

does high beam work? if it does, then maybe its just a blown low beam filament. if it doesn't and the fuse is good... then check for loose connections or corroded pins going to the light assembly socket.

What about odometer? doese is it change or it's stuck also?

the easiest cheapest thing to try is Seafoam,,purchase it from Autozone $10....pour 1/3 can into two gallons of gas and get on it..go around town for 10 to 15 miles and see if this will clean up the problem. can i get some feed back if this helps out thanks.

i believe its the disc brake.check for any leakages in the hose connecting the brake pads as well as the oil levels.if its low than the threshold level please fill it up with the recommended brake oil for bike.(usually dot3 or dot4 for disc brakes)
also ensure the brake pads have grooves over it and they are in proper condition.if they are worn out then the disc would be filled with black oily substance.if yes for the previous conditions change the brake pads too.
thanks for contacting fix-ya

The front brake lever is too tight or the wiring is bad.

Check for blown fuses.

In a word, Yes. I would check to see if the fan is working. If the fan itself is working check the temp switch. My bet is on the switch, I had a few fail in the past. If the bike heats up in traffic, shut it down and only start again when ready to move, this should get you out of trouble. If the temp gets too high you risk blowing a head gasget or warping the head, both are expensive to fix. The engine will cool when moving only, if you stop then so does the cooling this is why you have a fan.

check all wireing loose connection somewhere/