20 Most Recent 2004 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Running light has its own feed from. Ignition switch, you must have blown a fuse or unpluged a wire while you were doing the rear light

Your problem is more than likely not the clutch fluid, but the clutch plates. The friction material wears off quite quickly on the larger v twins due to the amount of torque they have to handle as compared to an inline 4 of the same size.

Change to oil, it can go bad and make the engine run bad or on one pot!

MOST LIKELY THE BATTERY. IGNITION NEEDS OVER 10VOLTS TO SPARK. WILL PUSH START CAUSE YOU ARE NOT TAKING VOLTAGE WITH STARTER

had a similar problem with a honda a few years ago; changed oil but put the wrong make of oil in (i didnt think it would matter).
had to re-drain, dismantle the clutch and thoroughly clean friction plates, reinstall then refill with correct oil. in my case this solved the problem. hope this is of help to you.

This may help. There is a wiring diagram for your bike posted HERE Note that this is "part 1" of the diagram. There is also a link for "Part 2" posted on the page. The page also has some very good advice for checking your bike out.

The site below has got all but the tappet clearances covered. You will need a service manual for the correct valve clearances or a friendly word to your dealer if you want to do it yourself.

Front and rear carbies' are depicted in exploded view form with all parts named and numbered. The diaphrams and idle adjustments are clearly shown. All sections of the bike are covered.

As for the timing chains, they are self adjusting and when adjustment runs out, the chains must be replaced.

Richness is governed by the size of the carby jets, smaller numbers are leaner.

Cheers!

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-vs800-gl-intruder-1992-1997-usa_model16322/partslist/

Your kickstand switch is either broken or out of position. The bike kills the engine as a safety feature if it thinks the sidestand is down and the bike is put in gear while the engine is running. -------------- You can cut the wire and by-pas the switch. Either twist the wires together or wrap electrical tape around the ends and keep them apart, whichever makes the engine not die. -------------- Check the side stand safety switch . The switch must be pressed fully home,if it isn't bend the plate that presses agains the switch to get a better contact.---------
It is the sidestand safety switch. It is designed to stall the bike in case you put it in gear with the sidestand down. If it is out of adjustment, or just plain dirty, it will not make a good contact and the bike will stall even with the sidestand up. Clean it, make sure the plunger is moving correctly, and if all else fails pull the two wires off and twist them together to bypass the switch until you get a new one.---------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

You don't have to rebuild the carburator the float is stuck . With the bike running try tapping on the carb in the middle of it to try to reset the needle and seat.Not real hard but firm with the handle of a screw driver will work, if this does stop the over flow you will need to remove the float bowl and replace the needle and seat .

Remove the left side cover, look near the middle and you will see a black rectangular box mounted sideways. the main fuse is under the panel on the right side behind the forks and the rest of the fuses are in the crank case under the cover...where you fill the oil.

Remove carbs, clean float needles check they dont stick, and also they control the amount of fuel flowing into the carbsCheck needle ends for progresed ware or dammage

sounds like you have a cracked hose. You will need to replace it

Take cover off the clutch reservoir and check the fluid level. Fill it if necessary. Look for leaks between the clutch lever/reservoir, down the hose to the clutch slave cylinder. If no leaks visible, slowly squeeze clutch lever and release, watching for air or fluid pumping in the reservoir. Repeat until clutch has a solid pull. If the pull doesn't improve and stay good, you'll need to bleed the hose and slave cylinder. Locate the bleed valve at the clutch, squeeze the lever till it's a good solid pull, hold it in, and open the bleed valve. Watch for air bubbles. After doing this several times, you should get nothing but fluid. Refill the reservoir and close it. Good riding

I would be much more inclined to check the choke, it sounds like it's stuck on or at least partially.
Any bike will do this if the choke valves are closed or partially closed even.
You might be surprised that the solution is as simple as turning off the choke (opening the valve) is the solution.
And yes, this would very much so cause the bike to run rich as well.
Good for starting up, not good for running!

Hi, is this after the bike has been away for the winter, these bikes Are designed to run on modern fuels, the intruder normaly runs fine , good advice would be to replace the spark plugs and drain the fuel from the carburettor float bowls by undoing the drain screws in the bottom of each carb, prior to using the bike after the winter, you may also check the condition of the air filter located on the left hand side of the engine under the chrome cover

The weight and how much depends on which bike you have. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

Hello,

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Regards,

Oz

You have a short circuit regulator I expect. Disconnect the regulator and see what happens.

Ebay would carry a manual most likely also be sure to drain oil and gas as well as cleaning the entire bike also you should try to test if its locked or seized up first before rebuilding.

In order to remove the rear wheel assembly, you are going to need a motorcycle lifting jack stand or similar device.

1. Stand the bike on the side stand

On the left side of the rear wheel:

2. Remove the two forward facing bolts.
3. Remove the allen head bolt with the wide head.

On the right side of the rear wheel:

4. Remove the brake adjuster nut on the end of the actuating lever.
5. Remove the Toque link nut at the bottom of the wheel assembly.
6. Remove the axle nut (castle nut and cotter pin).

7. Place the motorcycle jack under the swing arm or chassis tubes to stabilize the rear end. Lift the motorcycle until the rear tire is just off the ground.
8. Remove the axle.
9. Remove the wheel from the splined drive gear and place the wheel assembly on the ground.
10. Pull the wheel assembly rearward.

Reverse the process to replace the wheel.