2004 Suzuki VZ 800 Marauder - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There are three parts to the charging system, the stator makes A/C current. Regulator/ rectifier changes the A/C power to D/C power so it can be stored and regulates it around 14.5 volts. the last is the battery. now the stator is under the LH side cover of the motor.
Worldofpowersports.com has the micro phish on your bike. when you go to the site on the home page click shop parts and then it's just as easy as clicking make yr and model.
Do you have a multimeter? test your stator before you go replacing everything. there will be three yellow wires coming out of the LH side of motor, follow those to the plug. with your meter check to see if any of the wires are grounded. use the ohm setting and it'll be easy.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
M.Woodring

There is a switch on the brake lever and one on the brake pedal. try and work them with WD-40 to loosen dirt and lube them up. If that does not work you may have to change one or the other. It helps to put the rear of the bike up against a wall or something to see if the light goes on and off as you work the hand or foot brake.

it sound like you may have a alternator discharge problem . Charge the battery take it for a ride when you get back try starting the bike if it starts fine disconect the battery over night then hook it back up the next day if it starts fine their is a draw from something. if it doesn't start you have a bad plate in side the battery discharging it 9replace the battery) if the bike doesn't start after your test ride the the alternator has gone bad or is not hooked up correctly.

check the source coil of your motorcycle.. i think the source coil is burned.

Hi which fuse what bike explain any previous electrical probs

Push the spacer between the bearings off to one side. Get a chisel or an old screw driver and tap the inner race of the bearing out from the opposite side. Save the spacer. Flip the wheel over and tap out the other side. Grind the outer edge off one of the old bearings and place it over the new bearing. Tap on the old bearing to drive the new bearing into place. You may have to finish the install with a chisel on the outer race. Alternate tapping from side to side being careful not to damage seal. Flip the wheel over put the spacer back into the wheel and tap the new bearing into place so that it barely touches the spacer. The bearings should spin freely, but should not bind (inner races pushing too hard against spacer will cause binding). If you install too tightly reach through the wheel and tap on the opposite bearing only enough to stop the binding. Press in the seals and reinstall the wheel on the bike.

I believe the tank is held on after the bolts are removed by rubber pucks at front wiggle ..to the rear ..1st remove the gas line...

You do not need to alter anything except the chain, increasing the tooth on the front sprocket and decreasing the tooth on the rear will give you more top end, remember more teeth longer chain required, less teeth shorter chain!!

A model number would help but usually the ignition key unlocks the seat.

Check any and all Battery cables for corrosion or looseness. A lot of times this can be due to corrosion or a bad ground. If the fuses are ok and the battery is good then this may be the problem. Also have the battery load tested, even though the battery has 12.8 volts it could have bad cells in it and cause this problem also. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

The first problem happens in 3 cases:
1 - when the gears aren't properly shifted - there are multiple ones engaged (or better said, partially engaged) so the transmission is locked and it stalls the engine. Simple test to see if it's this problem: without starting the engine shift in first and try to push the bike - if you encounter an excessive resistance you will know that the shifter mechanism needs adjusting.
2 - if the idle is too weak or the mixture too lean the smallest additional effort is enough to kill the engine - you will have to check the carburetors and the air filter
3 - the kill switch (the one that prevents the starting of the engine in any other position than neutral) is faulty - replace it
The second problem is caused by a faulty electrical contact - start searching for it from the kill switch and then the contact key switch.

The description fits with a lean air/fuel mixture; more air than the amount of gas that is going to the engine really needs. With the laws Congress enacted several years ago, the only people who are supposed to be working on anything that can affect the air/fuel ratio of our motor vehicles are the certified mechanics trained to perform that kind of work. (Thank you, EPA.)

The official recommendation is to take the Suzuki to your local Suzuki dealer. Sorry.

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....

You can't, the computerized system is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do, Steal the bike without the correct credentials. You can't reprogram or over-ride the computer. You need a bike electrician.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E210US1494G0&p=repair+manual+for+1986+Suzuki+cavalcade+gv1400

The crank case will be almost as hot as the oil flowing around the engine, lubricating the bearings.

Thinking you meant Raider and not 'rider', and this is a Suzuki motorcycle and should not be in Cars and Trucks category. Edited and moved. https://www.google.com/search?q=raider+150+carb+tensioner