20 Most Recent 2005 Suzuki Boulevard S40 Questions & Answers

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2005/boulevard-s40-ls650/turn-signal-lamp Both front and rear are in stock!!

Remove the seat (three bolts). Drain and then remove the gas tank (two bolts in the front, pull backwards and to the left as you simultaneously pull up), and disconnect the gauge harness and speedo cable. Obviously you need to disconnect the fuel line from the tank too.

Now remove the left head cover and you'll have access to the plug.

Hi, does the bike start and run, if yes, apart from lights and horn check what else works or does not work. If the bike won't start try checking the battery if OK find the starter solenoid and check the fuse on that. I had a similar problem many years ago on a Honda. turned out to be a blown rectifier/regulator. If you do cure the fault please remember to check the battery charging circuit is working properly. At idle a meter reading of around 13 volts is normal this should rise to 14/14,5 volts at 5,000 rpm. Hope this is some help.

There is a label on the chrome belt cover on mine with the pressure amounts 2005. Single rider 29 front 33 rear. hope this helps

borrow a neighbours inflator with flex hose!

Adjust the cable to the lever. Leave about 1/32" slack measured at the contact point of the lever and it's mount.

To break loose a stuck clutch, push-start the motor, jump on, get to about 10 mph, pull the clutch lever in and hit the rear brake hard.

Some pictures than can help:

The carb diaphragms don't provide vacuum to the fuel valve...this comes from the motor sucking in as it turns.Check that the vac hose isn't split/blocked or leaking and that it is a good fit. Also blow the carb spigot through to make sure it isn't blocked

all motorcycles run noisey, this question is a little vague, have you just aquired the bike and feel it is noisey? has a noise occurred that wasnt there before? what sort of noise is it ? a rattle? a knocking? a pinging? is the noise there all the time or does it go when the clutch is pulled in? is it there when in neutral? you will need to investigate a little and isolate when this noise is more prevalent, failng this take it to a repair shop.

The three positions will be,
on normal riding.
res(reserve, when it runs low).
pri (prime).
so leave it on or res for riding and storing, it will be a vacumn opperated tap that turns itself off when the engine stops and there is no longer vacumn.
Prime is for initial priming of carbs only, do not ride it or store it on prime.
The second key may be for a steering lock on the side of the head stem.

I have the same bike that you do. To get at the battery you need to remove both the seat (2 bolts, 1 screw (at back)), AND also remove the tool kit housing. The battery sits behind the tool kit, and so to slide it out you need to remove both halves (front and back) of the tool kit housing. You have to take the seat off in order to get at one of the screws holding one of the battery terminals in place.

When I do this, I find the hardest parts to be to get at the screw attached to the battery on the side of the bike opposite the tool kit; not such an easy fit. The other part I find hard for some reason is getting the tool pack to fit back into the tool kit housing once you reattach it to the bike.

I am seriously thinking about attaching a "pigtail connector" to the battery for easy charging during the winter. I understand that most trickle chargers come with this kind of accessory.

2.1 quarts with filter.

look in a J&P catalog there is a product for this.

on the break calliper ther is a bleeder screw open the lid on the break reservoir and open the bleeder and let brain into a bucket

The carb probably needs cleaned. If you want more info, let me know. I will explain more! Thanks!