20 Most Recent 2005 Suzuki Boulevard M50 Questions & Answers


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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 30, 2019


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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on May 14, 2019


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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on May 14, 2019


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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on May 14, 2019


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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on May 12, 2019


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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on May 10, 2019


Look here:


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4_24_2019_1_04_12_am.jpg

2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 24, 2019


Hi, Steve engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is the air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in the process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.motorcycleforums.net/forum/marauder-m50-secret-hideaway/40843-m50-bogging-down.html
https://www.cyclefish.com/forums/topic/60039/2005-suzuki-c50-stalls-at-slow-speeds
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 24, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 24, 2019


Hi, Daniel and the usual suspects are:
1. Contaminated or faulty speed sensor.
2. Faulty turn signal module.
3. Corroded, broken or loose connector pins/sockets in the wire harness between the speedometer and the ECM or TSSM and the sensor.
4. The speedometer unit has failed.
5. Speedometer instrument fuse has blown.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.volusiariders.com/60-help/203538-speedometer-not-working.html
Suzuki Boulevard Speedometer Magnetic Speed Sensor Repair
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 23, 2019


Hi, Anonymous the transmission and clutch share the engine oil for lubrication, for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 22, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
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Tune up What to tune Suzuki Volusia Forums Intruder Volusia and Boulevard...
05 Boulevard Tune Up Spark Plugs and Air Filter Install
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 14, 2019


Hi, Daniel_motu for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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Horn location Suzuki Volusia Forums Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 05, 2019


Hi, Scott and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
MY BIKE JUST STOPPED RUNNING WHILE WAS RIDING
https://www.volusiariders.com/60-help/222836-weird-m50-dies-suddenly-fuel-pump.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/824096/Suzuki-Vz800.html#product-Boulevard%20M50
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 03, 2019


Hi, Anonymous you need to make sure you have no intake leaks by spraying some Brake Kleen, Contact Cleaner, Starting Fluid etc. around the intake manifold and seals, if the RPM's go up or down significantly then you have a leak that needs to be fixed before you can continue with the carburetor adjustment.
The engine should be at operating temperature with the choke off to set the idle between 950-1050 rpm. Turn the idle skrew clockwise to increase the idle speed and counterclockwise to decrease the idle speed. If you have access to your air-fuel mixture skrew you may turn it as well, if not there is a video below on how to gain access, make sure you start with clean or new spark plugs. Gently turn the air-fuel mixture skrew clockwise until it starts to bottom out "STOP" do not over tighten as it will damage the taper on the end, now back the skrew out 1-1/2 full turns to establish a starting point start the engine and check the idle rpm's and turn the idle skrew accordingly for 950-1050 rpm if necessary, turn the air-fuel mixture skrew 1/4 turn at a time and let the engine settle for about 10 seconds, turn the skrew clockwise for a leaner mixture and counterclockwise for a richer mixture, you are seeking the highest rpm your air-fuel mixture skrew can acquire without going past 3 full turns from the bottom then resetting the idle skrew back down to 950-1050 rpm If you can not detect any rpm change and can not stall the engine by turning the air-fuel mixture skrew all the way in then your pilot/low-speed jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller. Final adjustment should be made with a clean air filter mounted to the carburetor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.volusiariders.com/60-help/218454-c50-runs-rough-dies-idle-sometimes.html
http://www.volusiaowners.com/viewtopic.php?t=2917
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Mar 11, 2019


starter button sticking or bad relay

2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Jul 12, 2017


Hi, Doug for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Suzuki VL800 Service Manual
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Suzuki VL800 Owner Manual

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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 15, 2016


Hi, Rudy and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
11. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
12. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
13. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
14. Damaged carburetor.
15. Incorrect valve timing.
16. Weak or broken valve springs.
17. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
05 C50 running only on the rear cylinder Suzuki Volusia Forums Intruder...
Why am backfiring all of sudden
05 M50 rough idle loss of power
Suzuki C50 Service Manual pdf

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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 01, 2016


There are no aftermarket ABS kits available. Due to liability issues I would not expect to see them in the US. It is theoretically possible to adapt an ABS system from another vehicle for use on the bike but the work involved would be prohibitively expensive. The best improvements you can make are:
1) Working on your braking technique.
2) Using aftermarket brake rotors such as Galfer Wave units.
3) Adapting braking systems from another bike that has great brakes (GSXR or similar racing style bike).
4) Making sure your current system is operating properly (good fluid, good pads, pads moving in the caliper as they should).

2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 24, 2015


Try taking the carburetor float bowl off and check to see if anything got in there. I posted you a problem I had with my bike. I turned the throttle and the engine just died. As soon as I let off the throttle the engine would start running again. Found a powdery rust like substance in the nut in the bottom of the bowl. Kept gas from going up the main jet when I cracked open the throttle. My bike is an old Harley but carburetors pretty much work the same way however they may look. Give it a try, you said you tried everything else. You may even be able to take the float bowl off without removing the carburetor from the bike. Let us know if you had any luck.

2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Jun 21, 2015

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