2006 Suzuki GSX-R 750 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

u need a f1 test, under the rear seat a white block connector with 2 wires, use a hair clip or fuse wire put one end in one of the holes and the other in the other hole, turn on ignition and should show fault code, off 00 no fault. good luck

As conventional methods are not working the cause of the elusive fault must be pursued when the non-running is actually happening. Temporary tell-tale lights can be rigged in order to monitor voltages, a section of transparent fuel pipe to monitor fuel flow, noid light to monitor the injector pulse and so forth...

try a compression testif it has not been run for a whilesounds like sticky valves or stuck piston rings

Hello mary...you could have a detonation knock or "spark knock" due to bad gas.
Have you had your valve lash checked and adjusted @ recommended intervals? Could also be a timing chain noise...If you can determine what area of the engine the sound is coming from would help...To help pinpoint you can take a short piece of hose, like a heater hose or even garden hose, hold it to your ear and move it around on the engine. The knock or rattle will intensify as you get closer to it....Good luck, i hope this helps.

The odour you smelt may have been the rectifier which would have been working overtime with a dead battery and may have died too.

Your will need to bleed some fresh brake fluid through, this should fix the problem, unless a seal in the brake master seal is leaking

no, it is not a coded key. I suggest going to alldata.com and finding your key code, its usualy a 2 letter 3-4 number code and find the key and get it cut to the code of the bike. the VIN usually will help. Or get the blank key for it put it in the ignition and wiggle the key around, not too hard though, take it out and look at the markings on the key. Then file those marks down till you cant see them, and repeat untill you cannot see anymore marks. Do the same for the other side. (USE CYLINDRICAL FILE)

Aaron, 10 years of locksmith :)

Sounds like you have lost oil pressure. Stop riding it as it will thro a rod and destroy the engine. It probably needs a crank regrind and shells big job.

Certainly close enough to be perfectly okay. Usually only cosmetic changes are present; decals, shape of a fender, new paint colors, etc.

Short version, remove chain. drive line, turn off fuel remove fuel line, next unhook exhaust pipe disconnect the throttle pull bolts that hod engine on to frame and disconnect wires to coil remove coil remove the battery then with a stand put bike on the stnd and pull the motor out I could give you the long version but not here.

its an fi light its like an engine light in your car is the bike overheating or acting up

You have either got a bad generator (Stator) or wiring problems. Check to make sure all connections from Stator to Regulator and regulator to battery are good, Not corroided, or burnt. Check to make sure your Ground wire from battery to engine block it good! If all connections are good then the Stator is Bad! Testing the Stator is easy! With the new battery Charged up and all wires have be checked as stated above. Start Engine and let idle, Take a Volt meter on DC setting and place one lead on positive side of battery and Black on Negative see what the meter reads. Now with it still hooked up (Meter) Rev engine up and see the reading now! If the meter shows a discharge when you rev it up the Stator is Bad. If it shows over 16 volts the regulator rectifier is bad and needs replacing. It would be overcharging and burning or shorting out your Batteries! If it reads 14.5 to 15.5 volts it is Normal and most likely your New battery is Bad Take it back! Hope this is some help to you! Rick
PS! Road Rash Hurts, SO keep your Chin Up!!

A lot of times it is the exup servo motor needing adjustment. It will cause the Fi read out to eliminate.

It sounds like the tilt cut off may be to blame. If you put the bike into self diagnosis mode it will give you a code. This code can be checked and the offending sensor replaced. The tilt sensor in the tail piece is one sensor that turns the fuel pump off and so stops the engine.

Contrary to what the speedometer might say (and GSXR 750 owners), a 2008 GSXR does not have the displacement to reach 180mph. A road test conducted in germany had a rider reach 181mph - or what said 181mph on the speedometer - but was actually clocked on radar going 173mph. 173mph is what a GSXR will reach at around 1200 feet altitude and 65 degrees fahrenheit. Depending on the altitude and temperature, you might have slight fluctuations. If you want to go 180mph+, just get a GSX1000R

Check out your kickstand switch. kickstand must be up to move in gear.....safety

If your kickstand is down it will die on you.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. A C42 is an error in the ignition system that uses a 100 Ohm resistor to prevent hot wiring the bike. The usual problem is a connection to the ignition switch gets loosened or broken so the resistance value is greater than 100 Ohms.

C42 Error Code: Exhausted Many Options - StromTrooper

.. Lots more here. It is a known issue https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+Suzuki+GSX-R+750+C42+code ..

I would normally it is probably stuck, but the starter motor doesn't have the normal bendix on a spiral grooved shaft. It looks like it is permanently connected. I tried to see if there was some type of starter clutch behind it, and there is. It should release when the starter stops spinning.

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First impression was why would anyone rev their motorcycle to 9 grand in neutral? I could see if you were in gear clutch pulled and ready for a "drag" or Race Start but in neutral?

Anyway I can't hear it so if the sound is like it hits 9k and starts popping then two things either an over rev limiter which I doubtr because the engine red lines at 13,500 OR you have a set of spark plugs breaking down under load