2008 Suzuki GSX-R 600 - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

it's located on the front sprocket cover held on by a 4mm allen key bolt. if yor sensor is good, there is a part called the speed rotor that could be bad. the speed rotor is the plate on top of the front sprocket that sends the signal to the speed sensor.

As in using the word "tune" do you tune-UP? If so, you'll be wasting your money without installing a Power Commander at the same time...($200+parts)

After market air cleaners are a start. If you are serious about more HP then get a full race cam for the bike. Hold tight to the handlebars.

I don't get paid for my answers but I do take pride in them, and I am only trying to help. So if you will, > > A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

FI = Fuel Injection. The FI computer is telling you that it has detected a problem and the code for that problem is "C13". Telephone your dealer and ask what that code C13 indicates is wrong. Then you can determine if you want to try the fix, i.e. "clean the air filter", or if the shop must do it, i.e. "# 3 injector is restricted".

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Intake air pressure sensor (IAPS)

yes. The flasher works by the load imposed. Ck your brake/turn signal bulbs.

The FI light is an alert to you that the computer has found a Fuel Injection problem in the engine. The dealer can read the code and tell you what is wrong. You can then decide to have them fix it or do it yourself.

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Sounds like your injectors are clogged up. Run some injector cleaner in the gas tank, and ride it as best you can. Repeat till the problem goes away. Sometimes a tank or two should do it.

These tubes are for fuel overflow, cooling systems overflow and moisture drain from the air box.Absolutely normal.

this is a educated guess but in normal cars they need a spacific amout of back pressure to run properly now my removeing the cat you may have tampered with the back pressure balance and now it causes it to raddle try putting the cat back on

hi prock,

you have a possible problem with the clutch lining or the engagement assembly of the clutch. getting the line too tight will get the clutch in too deep preventing the bike from starting.

best bid is to have it checked by your dealer and let the warranty work for your side.

regards,

voodoo

You will need to remove the gas tank, air box, and possibly some hoses to get to the plug. Not a hard task, just time consuming on a newer bike.

Now that you have bled the brakes and everything seems okay, try pumping the brake lever many times while the bike is stationary. Do the brakes build up pressure and not release? If everything still seems okay after you do that I would take the bike for a ride around the neighborhood. Stop every few minutes to make sure the disc isn't heating up indicating the brakes may not be releasing properly.

If the master cylinder is working properly, when you pull the brake lever fluid is pumped into the brake line. This forces the brake pads against the brake disc, stopping the bike. When you let off the lever the fluid is allowed back into the master cylinder. If the cylinder does not release the fluid it could put a quick end to your riding. I would not be comfortable letting someone ride this bike very far until I took the master cylinder apart and satisfied myself that it was problem free.

repair or replace you fuel level sensor in the fuel tank

Horizontal is the off position.

I would suggest you stick with whatever oil the Suzuki dealer recommends. The bike is under warranty and you want to be CERTAIN it stays that way. Suzuki Motors Ltd., wants the bike to be reliable. They designed the motor and whatever they put in their motor is what you should put in your motor.

In all probability, 10w40 pennzoil, Mobil, or any other major brand will prove to be within warranty specifications.

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if this is a serious question....? under the tail is a key hole..... insert engine key into key hole turn.... seat unlocks

Need to adjust limit switch.

Sounds like the indicator relay is on the way out, most dealers will have one off the shelf, and are relatively cheap. you can see the part here. Page 33 part no 20
http://www.blackbears.ru/manual/files/Suzuki_GSX-R600K4_'04_Parts_Microfiche.zip

You can do the job yourself with no problem. No specific pattern for the side cover. BUT, get all the screws started then just bring them all slightly snug. Now tighten one screw and then go kitty corner and tighten another now drop down and pick a screw mid way between the first two screws and tighten it. Now do the kitty corner thing again and so on. As you know, the idea is to tighten the screws evenly around the entire cover.

As to torque, a 6mm screw gets 7 foot pounds or 85 inch pounds.
Realistically, no one ever bothers with torque on small screws. You will want to spend $15 to $20 and get yourself an impact driver to tighten or loosen screws. The tool is about 6" long and 2" in diameter and has a 3/8" drive on one end. Your socket set will fit it as well as screw driver bits. Just engage the bit into the head of the screw and strike the end of the impact driver with a hammer while twisting the tool to tighten the screw. This is the most valuable tool in my shop and I use one (Blue Point brand) that I got 40 years ago. They last well and can be used on any screw, bolt or nut that needs a little persuasion.

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