20 Most Recent 1994 Triumph Trophy 900 Questions & Answers

check your alternator/stator plate is putting current to the battery my guess is its goosed / multimeter across batery terminals should read 14.2 volts when engine is running if not its stator plate /check all terminals 1st with wd40 then chack again if it still persist then its ur stator burnt a coil

I found it easier to remove the forks and take them to a shop to have the seals done.In doing this you are still saving a bucket load of money. Removal of the forks takes about an hour and a half and is relatively easy without any specialist tools. You only have to remove the top part of the fairing.

I'm going to say the carburetors are fouled out, changing the fuel in the tank, lines and filter are a good start but the biggest problem is in the float bowls where the gas has evaporated leaving a nasty scale. The scale is chemical deposits left for the evaporating gas and just closes off and sticks the carburetors from functioning. If you have all the other components in making the engine run, ignition, compression and proper timing then the only other is fuel. The best way to fix the problem is to take the bike to a qualified mechanic and have the carbs cleaned and serviced. To prevent this problem I use a fuel stabilizer before putting my bike in storage generally I don't know when this is going to happen so the last three of four tanks of gas gets the treatment before going away for a Canadian winter. This stabilizer helps prevent the scale from building up and is a whole lot less expensive to buy then paying for repairs.

check fuel tap filter isnt chocked,fuel pipes clean,float needles not sticking

try helmet lock , opposite direction !

The first thing to come to mind is I THINK your bike has a "tip over sensor". If it was in a trailer that rolled over, that would have activated it, in which case it needs to be reset. It is under the seat, on the same bracket that attaches to the rear of the gas tank. If not, look under a side cover. Remove the cover and check to see of the brass ring is stuck or moves freely. The ring should rest on the plastic portion (non-conductive) of the rail. For clarity, I've add a couple of links to pics of the sensor- First pic is the sensor (cover removed) showing how it SHOULD look: http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/Gauges/TOS2.jpg The ring is at the 6 o'clock position in the pic. Second pic shows the sensor activated, as after the bike ended up on it's side: http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/Gauges/TOS1.jpg Notice ring has slid over and made contact with the electrical contacts, completing the circuit and killing the ignition.

Well, did you check your CPS? (Crank position sensor), do you have power coming into the coils? With out the impulse from the CPS, to tell the ECU to send the power to the coils...It ain't gonna start.

They are formed differently at the bottom, to allow the crankshaft counterweights more space to turn, and at the top, to allow the space needed for the fitting of the external cylinders. Easy to notice - align them in front of you on a flat table and you will notice the difference just by looking at them.

Bout an inch dude

Sounds like the Steering lock has jammed a little, best to wiggle the handlebars gently when trying to turn the key, and hopefully the key will turn, releasing the lock.

Hope this helps.

Try pulling the air filter out and hit it with a shot of ether. If it pops you got spark and its a fuel issue. If not-check the spark plugs,points-if it has them,or possible coil or coil fuse. If it has old fuel it will need cleaned out of tank and carbs cleaned as well. Always run bike dry of fuel before storing for any length of time. Hope this helps.

I disbelieve what "they" are telling you however, if this sound is abnormal to you and has drawn your attention to it then I'd say it's your bike telling you there is something wrong.

I've worked on engines for almost 50 years now from 1 to over 700 horse power they all talk to someone that listens and understands the sounds sort of a mechanical language.

Here are a few of the things the engine may be telling you.
Pre ignition would be my first guess without hearing the sound myself, this is an easy fix by using a better grade of gas with a higher octane rating. I have in the past carried small pre measured containers of octane boost and dump one in the tank at each fill of 87 octane gas.
If your pump gas is below 87 then that's the problem and if yo do nothing about pre ignition it'll destroy the pistons and the engine if left.

Another thing is one or more valves out of adjustment "hydrolic lifters" or not they do get sloppy and could be due to poor oil, wrong oil viscosity/grade, just worn out engine oil needing a change that fix isn't a total fix but changing to a better quality oil check your manual to see what is recommended, not all engine oil is created equal.

Another thing is the overhead valve system is driven by a chain, this chain has a tension-er and if it's worn this chain becomes loose and will rattle in there something real bad. Not only that because of the slack in the chain it will alter the valve timing which will no doubt affect the engine performance and possibly cause pre ignition. If this chain is loose and not serviced it will brake and I've seen them where they had almost cut the engine into two pieces.

So you got pre-ignition, poor oil, cam chain or even to lean a gas mix at high speed which will cause pre ignition as well.

can u say what u mean?

check your floats and float valves...it sounds like the engine may be starved for gas as the float bowl empties (and runs again as they slowly fill again).

I suppose if the fault cannot be traced, fitting an isolator relay or switch in series with the battery would cure your problem. They are readily available from car shops and fairly innexpensive.
Without seeing and working on your bike, I could not begin to suggest the cause.
Hope that helps.

You can take the alarm off of the motorcycle. The wiring should be very easy to put back to the original. The receiver to the alarm will have the ignition wires cut and the box spliced in the middle. You can just cut the wires on the alarm and splice back the original colors to colors. For an example the blue wire will go back to the blue wire. The red to the red etc.

No. Not at all. The fairing is for nothing but looks. Won't change a thing as far as the carbs are concerned. Unless it is part of you air cleaner system. If that is the case, just go buy K&N filters for it. They sell them or can get them at any bike shop!

Parts Suppliers. The normal thing to think is "I'll just bypass them", but the tip over sensor cuts power to the engine if you drop the bike riding it. https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+Triumph+600TT+kickstand+and+tip+over+sensor ..

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwj1rfLS9vL-AhXFATQIHSEjDGMQFnoECBwQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fixya.com%2Fmotorcycles%2Ft20960514-went_start_triumph_tiger_1050_as&usg=AOvVaw0JsHR2CItbYHI-nBz7GaK8

There are several possible reasons why the battery on your 1997 Triumph Daytona 955i may not be charging while you are riding it:

1. The battery may be faulty. If the battery is not holding a charge or is not functioning properly, it will not be able to charge while you are riding the motorcycle.
2. The charging system may malfunction. The charging system is responsible for supplying power to the battery while the motorcycle is running. If the charging system is not functioning properly, the battery will not be able to charge.
3. The voltage regulator may be malfunctioning. The voltage regulator is a component of the charging system that regulates the voltage supplied to the battery. If the voltage regulator is not functioning properly, the battery may not be able to charge.
4. The battery cables or connections may be loose or damaged. If the battery cables or connections are loose or damaged, the battery will not be able to receive a charge.

To troubleshoot the problem, you should start by checking the battery to see if it is functioning properly. If the battery is not the issue, you will need to check the charging system and voltage regulator to see if they are functioning properly. If the problem persists, it is recommended that you have the motorcycle inspected by a qualified mechanic. They will be able to diagnose the problem and recommend the appropriate repairs.