20 Most Recent 1995 Triumph Trophy 900 Questions & Answers

I think it is likely to be a flat battery - It would be worth topping it up and charging it for a long time then checking the voltage. You could try jump leads as well, but that doesn't work if the battery is really flat.

When a battery is left to go flat it often knackers it permanently (I know this to my cost!), they lose a percentage of their charge every day, especially if they get cold. If the bike isn't going to be used it's best to take it off, keep it indoors and charge it occasionally.

carb is probly dirty--low speed jets are clogged with varnish or idle control is not set rite--get a book on cleaning process--u can put on the choke slightly to remedy the situation

Try here

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/5/17863/PDVG/Street-Bike-Parts-1995-Triumph-Trophy-900-Parts.aspx

I would start by checking for kinks in the vacuum hose. The situation you describe would usually result in a low vacuum situation and if the hose is kinked, this could lead to the problem you describe. There could be a problem with the tap itself and a good place to look for more info is at www.triumphrat.net, the Triumph owner's forum.

Usually the fuel valve is this
Straight Down = ON
Straight Up = RESERVE
Horizontal/Across = OFF
There may be some difference with the manufacturers, or with custom fuel valves (chrome), also, fuel injected bikes usually do not have reserve or reserve position on fuel valve. If you have fuel injected bike, they do not like to be run out of gas, keep the gas level up.

Hi
Make sure the air filter is clean (& not over oiled if sponge type)
Make sure that the pilot screws on #1 & #3 are 2 turns out and #2 is 2.25 turns out
Try turning 1/8 of a turn at a time
Also change to a softer plug - NGK DPR7EA-9 or equivalent as these stay hotter to burn more carbon off

Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

sounds like you have got a stuck thermostate. it will have to be replaced ,do not operate untill problem is repaired or you will cook your engine.

try helmet lock , opposite direction !

The first thing to come to mind is I THINK your bike has a "tip over sensor". If it was in a trailer that rolled over, that would have activated it, in which case it needs to be reset. It is under the seat, on the same bracket that attaches to the rear of the gas tank. If not, look under a side cover. Remove the cover and check to see of the brass ring is stuck or moves freely. The ring should rest on the plastic portion (non-conductive) of the rail. For clarity, I've add a couple of links to pics of the sensor- First pic is the sensor (cover removed) showing how it SHOULD look: http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/Gauges/TOS2.jpg The ring is at the 6 o'clock position in the pic. Second pic shows the sensor activated, as after the bike ended up on it's side: http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/Gauges/TOS1.jpg Notice ring has slid over and made contact with the electrical contacts, completing the circuit and killing the ignition.

Well, did you check your CPS? (Crank position sensor), do you have power coming into the coils? With out the impulse from the CPS, to tell the ECU to send the power to the coils...It ain't gonna start.

They are formed differently at the bottom, to allow the crankshaft counterweights more space to turn, and at the top, to allow the space needed for the fitting of the external cylinders. Easy to notice - align them in front of you on a flat table and you will notice the difference just by looking at them.

Bout an inch dude

Sounds like the Steering lock has jammed a little, best to wiggle the handlebars gently when trying to turn the key, and hopefully the key will turn, releasing the lock.

Hope this helps.

Try pulling the air filter out and hit it with a shot of ether. If it pops you got spark and its a fuel issue. If not-check the spark plugs,points-if it has them,or possible coil or coil fuse. If it has old fuel it will need cleaned out of tank and carbs cleaned as well. Always run bike dry of fuel before storing for any length of time. Hope this helps.

I disbelieve what "they" are telling you however, if this sound is abnormal to you and has drawn your attention to it then I'd say it's your bike telling you there is something wrong.

I've worked on engines for almost 50 years now from 1 to over 700 horse power they all talk to someone that listens and understands the sounds sort of a mechanical language.

Here are a few of the things the engine may be telling you.
Pre ignition would be my first guess without hearing the sound myself, this is an easy fix by using a better grade of gas with a higher octane rating. I have in the past carried small pre measured containers of octane boost and dump one in the tank at each fill of 87 octane gas.
If your pump gas is below 87 then that's the problem and if yo do nothing about pre ignition it'll destroy the pistons and the engine if left.

Another thing is one or more valves out of adjustment "hydrolic lifters" or not they do get sloppy and could be due to poor oil, wrong oil viscosity/grade, just worn out engine oil needing a change that fix isn't a total fix but changing to a better quality oil check your manual to see what is recommended, not all engine oil is created equal.

Another thing is the overhead valve system is driven by a chain, this chain has a tension-er and if it's worn this chain becomes loose and will rattle in there something real bad. Not only that because of the slack in the chain it will alter the valve timing which will no doubt affect the engine performance and possibly cause pre ignition. If this chain is loose and not serviced it will brake and I've seen them where they had almost cut the engine into two pieces.

So you got pre-ignition, poor oil, cam chain or even to lean a gas mix at high speed which will cause pre ignition as well.

can u say what u mean?

check your floats and float valves...it sounds like the engine may be starved for gas as the float bowl empties (and runs again as they slowly fill again).

I suppose if the fault cannot be traced, fitting an isolator relay or switch in series with the battery would cure your problem. They are readily available from car shops and fairly innexpensive.
Without seeing and working on your bike, I could not begin to suggest the cause.
Hope that helps.

You can take the alarm off of the motorcycle. The wiring should be very easy to put back to the original. The receiver to the alarm will have the ignition wires cut and the box spliced in the middle. You can just cut the wires on the alarm and splice back the original colors to colors. For an example the blue wire will go back to the blue wire. The red to the red etc.

No. Not at all. The fairing is for nothing but looks. Won't change a thing as far as the carbs are concerned. Unless it is part of you air cleaner system. If that is the case, just go buy K&N filters for it. They sell them or can get them at any bike shop!