20 Most Recent 2002 Triumph Triumph Bonneville Questions & Answers


Hi, Bakked2r and the usual suspects are:
1. Oil tank/system overfilled.
2. Faulty breather valve.
3. Engine breather hose bent, pinched, kinked, etc.
4. Air filter has too much "pre-oil".
5. Crankshaft seal failure allowing transmission fluid to migrate.
6. Blow by drain tube cracked/split or filled to capacity.
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/hinckley-classic-triples/52951-oil-leaking-out-of-air-box.html
https://www.triumphtalk.com/threads/oil-drip-from-airbox.29703/
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/278334910-triumph-bonneville-service-manual-motorcycle-2001-2012 $15
https://www.triumphestore.com/
https://www.triumphmotorcycles.com/offers-and-services/manuals

2002 Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hey J.. make sure your battery has the necessary CCA..(Cold Cranking Amps).. this is the true measure of a battery.. and you have replaced the starter solenoid..?.. hhhmm...??
... Still sounds more like the battery is low on CCA.. ....bypassing/jumping the solenoid allows the engine to start with having/needing the amperage necessary to make the solenoid contacts activate... Amperage is what "pushes" the voltage.. without the required amperage (CCA).. voltage, when relating to starting your bike is "just voltage".. it will run a light, but NOT start a motorcycle...Good luck.

2002 Triumph... | Answered on Jul 12, 2017


Possible vacuum problem in fuel tank? Try riding with fuel cap slightly loose if possible then see if the problem goes away. Maybe the venting for the fuel tank is blocked.

2002 Triumph... | Answered on Feb 11, 2011


If it has been standing for a long time the fuel could have evaporated from the carb. Evaporated fuel leaves behind a powdery residue that could clog the jets in the carb which would make for hard starting and poor performance. If started and this happens, run some carb cleaner through the engine. Also, shaft seals tend to harden, so be prepared for some oil seepage. If luck is on your side then you wont have a single problem.

2002 Triumph... | Answered on Jul 26, 2010


Just hook one of them up and you'll know. all it can do is flash. You have a 50/50 chance of being right the first try.

2002 Triumph... | Answered on Oct 10, 2009


is it electronic ignition? - if so, the ignition heat sink unit may be gone...should be s omehwere on the underside of the tank shroud. do you have a manual for it?

2002 Triumph... | Answered on Aug 06, 2009


Sound like it could be the stater or pulse coil

2002 Triumph... | Answered on Jul 26, 2009


Check the fuses and the connections on the wiring harness. Trace how far the power goes. Where it stops is the problem.

2002 Triumph... | Answered on Mar 23, 2009


this is going to sound bad but some where you have lost power to the coils pull every thing back apart and the first thing i would do is look at the tach you changed no singal i bet when you are cranking the mtr over, see if the tach show rpm while cranking . if it dose not install your oem tach good luck kdc744

2002 Triumph... | Answered on Jan 18, 2009


try here mate you may find what your after

http://www.manualz.info/


hope this helps

2002 Triumph... | Answered on Jan 04, 2009


Hi, Bobhamilt790 if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water, etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. Your engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, the engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark grey, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vintage-and-veteran/773594-carb-tuning.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ouUl2tZoW0
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/Repair/1970s/70-Triumph-Repair-Manual-63-70.pdf
https://partsbooks.britishonly.com/partsbooks/20-10201C.pdf
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/OwnersManuals/1970s/1972TriumphOwnersManual.pdf

Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Yagoonano1 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vintage-and-veteran/316393-1971-t120r-wont-start-help-2.html
http://classicmotorcycleforum.com/index.php?topic=3895.0
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/Repair/1970s/70-Triumph-Repair-Manual-63-70.pdf
https://partsbooks.britishonly.com/partsbooks/20-10305C.pdf
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/OwnersManuals/1960s/68OwnersManualTriumph650s.pdf

Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Triumph, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vintage-and-veteran/73195-kick-start-problem-on-73-bonneville.html
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=117796
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/Repair/1970s/70-Triumph-Repair-Manual-63-70.pdf
https://partsbooks.britishonly.com/partsbooks/20-10202C.pdf
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/OwnersManuals/1970s/1971Triumph650OwnersManual.pdf

Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely drained or faulty battery.
2. Faulty regulator/rectifier or high output coil.
3. Clogged air filter or exhaust.
5. Cracked or incorrect float level.
6. Float needle is not seating.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=499388&page=all
https://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vintage-and-veteran/208404-t140v-misfiring-at-5-000-rpm.html
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/Repair/1970s/73-78-Triumph-Bonneville-Tiger-Workshop-Manual.pdf
https://partsbooks.britishonly.com/partsbooks/20-10202C.pdf
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/OwnersManuals/1970s/1978-Bonneville-750-T140E-Owners-Handbook.pdf

Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Mike before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vintage-and-veteran/199900-battery-not-charging.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiYmHiP2C98
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/253883097-triumph-bonneville-2001-2007-workshop-service-repair-manual $15
https://www.triumphestore.com/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1359522/Triumph-Bonneville.html

Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Triumph, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/water-cooled-twins-technical-talk/797849-t120-tank-removal.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqboFTT1HNo
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/832400/Triumph-Bonneville-T120.html#product-Bonneville%20T120
https://www.triumphestore.com/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1147937/Triumph-T120.html

Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Robert for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Triumph, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vintage-and-veteran/653657-splitting-crank-cases-on-t140v.html
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=87451
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/461452/Triumph-Bonneville-750.html
https://www.britishbikebits.com/triumph-t140-bonneville-parts
http://mybikemanuals.com/triumph

Triumph... | Answered on Aug 17, 2019


Yes they are plugged if they have any ethanol fuel in the fuel system and the fuel system had no stabilizer added. The fuel system will need cleaning

Triumph... | Answered on Jun 17, 2019

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