20 Most Recent 2002 Triumph Triumph Bonneville - Page 5 Questions & Answers

charge the battery up and use jumper leads from a car ,if problem persists then its new starter motor ,because it could be the bendix pinion from your description ,but it might just be the battery not holding enough reserve amperage power to turn the starter motor hence the car jump start .

Oh, it's been a long time since I've messed with a pre-unit Triumph. Best as I can remember, the transmission was adjustable on it's mount on the frame. You loosened the inner primary bolts and the transmission mounting bolts. There was an adjuster mounted on the frame behind the transmission, I think.

I hope this helps. It's been a LONG time since I've seen one of those and I'm an OLD man with a questionable memory.

Good Luck
Steve

screwing the jets in makes it rich, they are usually 1-2 turns out,The problem may not be the carbs
check aircleaner, fuel filters, what did it run like before the new carbs?

You most likely have a float that needs adjusting. For my money, I leave this task to the pros. Get an estimate at three shops nearby so you get a good price. The only other thing you may have going on is some residual crud and lacquer buildup. For that I use Seafoam, a fuel additive that works wonders. IT is available at most auto parts stores. Joe

You will need the centering tool to align the new clutch. The manual says it's part T3880014. It says it is not essential but the job can take some time without it. Triumph recommend the use of an alignment tool (PN T3880014) for use when rebuilding the clutch. The tool is used to align the lifter plate with the hole in the transmission input shaft, thus enabling the pushrod seat to move freely in the shaft when the clutch lever is operated. The tool is not essential, although the installation procedure can take some time without it.
Not horribly definitive, but it sounds like you could replace plates and springs without the tool, according to Haynes. check out.this will help. thanks.

Get a Haynes Manual. I work on my own bikes with a Factory Manual, The Haynes or Clymer Manual and a Parts Book. If you are going to do your own work you need these books. Period.

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/trium65twin1.html

Here are some simple diagrams that give the basic idea of what works for the Typanium Rectifier set up.

http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc10.html

Here is a good site for "Home Mechanics".. I love this site.. has some great Triumph stuff and repair info.

www.jockeyjournal.com

Jim

This is a technically challenging task even if you have the calibrated vacuum gages and the know how to use them. Please see your motorcycle shop and have them balance the carbs on your Bonneville for optimum results.

Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com

After these bikes have set for a period of time the oil in the oil tank drains to the lower end of the engine and when started after sitting the oil is usually forced out of the vents for crankcase; which on many of these bikes is through the primary and possibly to the chain oiler etc. Usually after running for a few minutes the oil is back in the oil tank and over supply to the oiler stops! Could possibly soak the clutch plates if it filled primary case also. Be sure and check oil level in tank?! If you added oil before starting it will now be overfilled after starting. This is common problem and will mend it self usually. Does make a mess in the garage toooooooo! Jesse "Leroy" Graves

I found a supplier on internet who had stock of ignition switch, barrell and key.

sounds like oil rings may need replacing,650 are very needy motors, they need regular service and the oil change is the best way to keep them running. also after a spray off at the wash it is a good idea to dry them before a long sit.

Check your connections, recheck them, start from the battery go all the way through in your testing. Personally it soulds like an issue at the coil not getting fire.

A service manual is a valuable tool with an aging bike. I suggest the dealer/mfr. or Clymer books. In the meantime, go to the library reference section...646 stacks should have what you need.

Check this forum out you will find somthing there.
http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/index.php?

http://www.boyerbransden.com/html/data_sheets.html

Go here and download what you need.

hi buddy easy task if you know what your doing 1st run the bike for 10mins to warm oil up then on the right side at the front off the engine is the oil plug unscrew this i will give you a pic to demonstrate let the oil drain and kick it over 5 times to get access oil out then clean the plug and replace also retightening then we need to take the oil filter which is just a simple unscrew it and take it off get the new one oil the rubber seal on it and screw on hand tight the oil filter will be located on the engine and will look like the filters below either in silver or black once this is done you unscrew the engine filler plug and fill with oil but i need to know what model it is until i tell you how much and the capacity get back to me

if your model has a amel mark 2 the stand main jet is #200 needle jet #106 pilot jet #20 starter jet #35 the main jet doesn't come into it at take off unless you are pulling 5000 revs or more. i would try raising the needles and checking the pilot jet also try taking of with choke on this will let you know if it is starving for fuel. try the choke one first before pulling the carbs down.

drop the needles 1 position maybe two if you changed jets go smaller if you changed nothing slides could be warn.

Several things could be at play: Type or weight of oil, confirm this first. Not to question the rebuild but if not done properly (improper bearing clearances, too large) the oil pressure can be low and perhaps a worn pump too. While I am unfamiliar with the engine and oil pump loaction I'd check it if your able too. You'll probably need a good set of feeler gauges to check this if these clearances are outside of the pumps limits the pump will be less able to create pressure; this is of course more evident when the oil heats up.
Another cheap fix is to use a heavier weight oil.
Hope this might help,
Tom

I would check out any wiring that is routed through that area for signs of burnt or broken insulation, but it sounds like you already covered this since you say that everything appears to be visibly okay. Is everything on the bike operating properly or is this causing an issue of some kind?

Your voltage regulator has packed up, have you jumped it from a car? thats guaranteed to stuff it! 85+amps 12v into 16amps 12v dont go!
not dear to fix, look for electrex on google uk