20 Most Recent 2005 Triumph Triumph Bonneville - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Clutch might be good, but it could be out of adjustment. One test is with engine off, pull in clutch and cycle kickstarter a few times. There should be drag for the first 2-3 kicks, then it should free up (the clutch plates tend to "weld up" [just a term] from heat wile running). If not remove primary cover. Pull in clutch lever, cycle kickstarter, and watch that pressure plate isn't "wobbling" as it turns. If it does, you'll have to tighten 1 or 2 of the 3 clutch spring nuts to get it to turn true. Then adjust the clutch pushrod free play. In the center of clutch pressure plate, loosen lock nut and back off adjuster screw. Tighten screw until it you fell it just "touch" the push rod behind it. Back off the screw 1/4 to 1/2, hold it from turning, and lock down the lock nut. Adjust the clutch cable so there's about 1/16" to 1/8" slack at the lever end.

http://i936.photobucket.com/albums/ad206/BrienJMorrissey/ff242e78-H22WIRING.jpg

I ran one of those on several 60s-70s Triumphs.....great ignition! Both plugs fire at the same time so there is no left/right to worry about. Remove spark plugs and gap .018. Remove timing cover (right hand side of engine) over battery ignition points. Disconnect and tape (insulate) all battery connected wires. Better yet, unhook battery hot wire from battery terminal. Hold breaker cam in opposite direction of rotation (advanced position) and rotate engine until the points on #1 cylinder just start to open. Note: Use .0015 feeler gauge. Remove breaker plate, breaker cam advance mechanism, and dowel pin from internal taper if your model used a dowel pin to position breaker cam and advance mechanism. CAUTION Do Not Rotate Engine. If engine is rotated, reverse rotation until piston is down and the cylinder at least one inch before top center on the compression stroke. Rotate engine in normal direction of rotation until piston is 5/16 from top center on compression stroke. Install magnetos adaptor plate and adaptor shaft in cam taper. DO NOT TIGHTEN SHAFT. CAUTION 1963 to 1970 Triumph unit construction twins have a different length taper on shaft and internal threads are dissimilar. Suggest checking threads and taper. 1963 to 1970 bolt has BSF 1/4 x 26 threads. 1971 and later bolt had 1/4 x 28 thread. Early shafts are marked with the letter "A". Later shafts are marked with "B". NOTE: Some applications will require drilling and tapping engine with 1/4 x 20 for better security of magneto mounting adapter. Some customers with severe service report that they heli aced adaptor to cam cover with approximately one inch length bead, top and bottom for security. Remove Magneto cover. With shaft slightly loose in taper mount Magneto so that points are just starting to open and bolts are approximately in center of slot (for timing adjustment later). Carefully remove Magneto and tighten center bolt in shaft. Re-install Magneto and time. Install cover and plug wires. Hook up ground wire to a separate kill switch to ground only. DO NOT HOOK ANY BATTERY CURRENT TO MAGNETO. Point Gap .012 to .015

Most likely the bulb is burned out. Next likely, the oil pressure sending unit is bad. Lastly, wiring - wire unplugged, or grounding out.

http://www.triumphrat.net/attachments/classic-vintage-and-veteran/24674d1272815144-kickstart-stuck-78-bonneville-dsc00425.jpg Notice the top most tooth is kind of aligned with the cover mounting bolt hole above it. You want to be sure that the kickstarter gear does not engage the transmission shaft ratcheting gear when the kick starter lever is all the way up.

du2005 indicates it's a 1963 model, the first year of the "Unit Construction" engine (engine and transmission one unit, rather than the prior "Pre-Unit Construction engines) 1963 serial numbers run from DU101 to DU5824

Just to make sure we're on the same page, I'll assume you mean one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Working-Lucas-Rectifier-Triumph-Norton-BSA-500-650-750-Bonneville-Lightning-93r-/310849859745?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item48601870a1&vxp=mtr If so, let's go to this pic: http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q637/danimal991/rectifier3.jpg (click pic to enlarge a little) IF you have the terminal marked #1 (not all do), this is an additional ground, to supplement the ground from the mounting bolt (#5). Numbers 2 & 4 are where the alternator leads plug in. Doesn't matter which, as the voltage from the alternator to the rectifier is AC current. Number 3 (center terminal) is the "hot" lead (converted to DC voltage), and splits off in two leads, one going to the system, the other going to the Zener Diode, which acts as the voltage regulator. Now, a few things to be aware of: When removing or installing the rectifier, ALWAYS use a wrench to hold the "bolt head" (under terminal #1 in the illustration) to keep it from turning while you loosen/tighten the nut. If you don't do this the "plates" will turn, breaking their internal connection(s). In that case, you might as well take it off and throw it in the trash, and go buy another one! Make sure the mounting is contacting clean, bare metal (no paint, rust, etc). I usually use a piece of Scotch Brite and shine up the mounting area, put a dab of dielectric grease (available at auto parts store) and slip an external tooth lock washer over the bolt threads before inserting it into the hole and tightening with the nut: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HGJnod9WkGE/UXA77e-kxSI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/drj3iZ3eCB8/s1600/External+Tooth+Lock+Washer.jpg The teeth of the lockwasher dig into the mounting surfaces, giving a better electrical connection.

Been there, done that, got the souvenir tee-shirt! Rather than the "how", you DO realise that there are some specialty tools required, right? Special pullers to remove/reinstall camshaft gears, special puller for crankshaft pinion gear, crankshaft locking tool, British Whitworth sockets for the connecting rods big end journal nuts, crankshaft presser to separate case halves, etc. Also, to reinstall the crankshaft into the one crankcase, you'll need to freeze the crankshaft and/or heat the crankcase bearing, or have a press to get the crank journal seated into the bearing.

Not sure about circuit breaker, but there would be a main fuse around 30 amp. If that blows you have no power to anything.

Its a very simple wiring circuit on the Bonneville tachometer, only 3 wires, the 12 volt feed, one to earth/negative and the signal from the ignitor pack. Unfortunately the tachometer fluctuation, can be a sign that the ignitor unit is becoming faulty. If you could get the ignitor checked it would be good. Also check all the connector pins on the block connector. best of luck with your bike.

WHAT MODEL YEAR??????????????A 1972 Triumph will have a different fix then a 2010 Triumph!!!!!!!!!!!

Not very detailed question.Chain noise?Clunking noise?Rattling noise?All the time?Only when clutch is pulled in?Only at high RPMs?Only at high speeds, regardless of RPMs?Etc?From your lack of info, I'm gonna throw out "primary chain adjustment".

depends on what year it is an early model should only have one bolt later models you might have to remove the footpeg

you just had service.ask them whats this means.

You need to check which of the 2 things that can cause that: missing fuel or missing spark is the one in your bike.
For that try to start the bike several times then remove the spark plugs. Now look at them - if they are black or dirty then replace them. Try again and if now they are really moist then you have a missing spark and you will need to diagnose the ignition system: start with the battery (make sure is full) then the key contact (see is it powers the coil when the key is turned) then the high tension leads and finally check the points.
If the sparkplugs are dry or barely damp then check the fuel filter and clean the carburetors thoroughly.

Hello, your Triumph needs to have good spark and clean spark plugs, the battery fully charged.
The carbs need to be adjusted properly. This will make kick starting much easier & the bike will also run better. Choke it when it is cold, after that the choke should not be needed. Here is video showing how easy they will start --- on the first kick. I hope this helps.

check and clean the fuel filter first, this could be the cheapest fix

PULL THE FLOAT BOWLS AND CHECK YOUR NEEDLE VALVES AND FLOAT LEVELS... GOOD LUCK!

It's not free, but I've had good success on www.tradebit.com. They have a large library, and may have your manual. The most I've ever paid for a download is $20, most of them have been between 5 and 10 dollars. Good luck!

just because you put your hand on the wire doesn't mean its not getting spark, pull the plug wire off the plug,, insert a screw driver in the end of the plug wire (you'll need help with this,,) have a friend hold the screwdriver close to a bolt on the motor,, crank it over and see if you see spark , It should arc from the screwdriver to the bolt, ( it has to be very close to the bolt but not touching, if you see spark,, pull the plug,, attach the wire back on the sparkplug,, and repeat the same thing, Only place the tab of the plug next to the bolt,, spark = you have spark,, if not ,, replace the plug