20 Most Recent 2005 Triumph Daytona 955i Questions & Answers

Hi, Jon before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
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Hi, Evans for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Triumph, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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Hi, Shannon you need to put the switch between the main circuit breaker/fuse and the light circuit fuse/breaker to do this you need a wiring diagram that you can find in the back of your service/owners manual if you can not find the first and best tool you ever bought for your bike, despair not, I have found one for you that costs eight dollars. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Alternator is behind the left hand engine cover and the rectifier/regulator is located beneath the rear bodywork on the right hand side.
Check the regulator first as it may have got wet.

no it wont 17 the bigest

i belive 106 links was standard

Sounds like fuel frothing or float sticking. Try dismantling float chamber and check gasket is not pinching float, it moves freely and float level is right. Check manifold has correct mounts and heat insulators, also, sounds daft, but bodies or dirt in fuel tank, filters and line do happen!

I have just found my 30 amp fuse blown on my daytona , this prevents the alternator working , it was reading 10.9v before I changed the 30 amp fuse , now it reads 14.5 volts , I think I blew it as I didnt know how to put the alarn into service mode and left the ignition on , anyway I am hoping its just that , 3 heat up/cool down cycles and the engine management light should go out

mike

Well i dont think the ride hieght will change, nothing you could notice, and if your changing sprockets its best to do both and a new chain, now i might add that it is preffered to change chain with sprockets not required if the sprockets are ok. As to the length i can only say i run the 17 tooth around the city and for the long trips i swap back to the 18, mind you it is a new 18 not the original, of course with the change back (2nd time) i have not changed the chain and have been running the same chain length, it has shortened the wheel base from the original 18 tooth front, but i kinda like it a little shorter, gives me more weight over it and the front gives more feed back, but thats just me, not saying its right

Is the battery good. You should have a voltmeter to put across the battery terminals and it should read at least 12.5 volts if it is fully charged and not been on a charger for a few hours. When you have the bike running you should see around 14 volts when revved up a bit, if you see no voltage increase over the 12.5 volts then it means that the alternator is not charging and you will have to investigate that.

Hi, Chris_goslin and the usual suspects are:
1. Engine oil level and SAE weight are too low or not circulating.
2. Insufficient or blocked air flow over the engine.
3. Heavy combustion chamber carbon deposits.
4. Ignition timing retarded due to faulty MAP, CKP, or CMP sensor.
5. Carburetor jetted too lean.
6. Leaking intake or exhaust valve.
7. Water coolant old or low change every two years.
8. Water pump failure.
9. Radiator clogged, cap loose or malfunctioning.
10. Radiator fans not coming on.
11. Clutch slipping, brakes dragging, heavy load, towing a trailer etc.
12. Idling too long without moving.
13. For constant hot weather temperatures, mountain, or desert riding conditions consider adding an oil cooler and or cylinder head cooler.
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Hi, Chris I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Chains---RATTLE
5. Clutches---CHATTER
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fronk Forks---Plunk
8. Gears---WHINE
9. Head Gasket---HISS
10. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
11. Pistons---SLAP
12. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
13. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
14. Solid Lifters---TICK
15. Starters---CLICK
16. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi, Chris I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Chains---RATTLE
5. Clutches---CHATTER
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fronk Forks---Plunk
8. Gears---WHINE
9. Head Gasket---HISS
10. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
11. Pistons---SLAP
12. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
13. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
14. Solid Lifters---TICK
15. Starters---CLICK
16. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi, Neil you got apples and oranges here for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi, Tim the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
12. Fuel tank empty.
13. Gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
14. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and free downloads that you need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi, Neil for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix/test or parts inquiry. If necessary transport your vehicle to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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I would check ht leads from the coils make sure there fitted securely

• yes it can usually a result of the voltage regulator rectifier going bad I bet you are have speedometer issues as well I had the same trouble find yourself a good after market replacement you should spend more than 200 on one

is the voltage regulator or rectifier faulty,also check for a short circuit on the wiring loom.

Just go to the dealer with the vin # and they can cut a new key for you. No need to destroy your bike.