20 Most Recent 2007 Triumph Triumph Bonneville Questions & Answers


Hi, Monkin3 if you are experiencing excessive oil coming out of the crankcase breather or air filter please drain all engine oil and replace half of the same oil that comes out. Many riders are overfilling their oil system because they do not know how to properly read their oil site glass or dipstick. The following procedure works on nearly all 4 stroke engines but to be on the safe side you should refer to your owners manual. Use your center stand if you have one.
1. Bring the engine up to operating temperature or let idle for 5 minutes.
2. Turn off your engine and let it sit for 2 minutes, this will allow the oil from the top end to drain to the bottom.
3. Hold your bike straight up or on the center stand and wait 2 minutes for the oil in the bottom of the engine to be level in the sight glass or on the dipstick.
4. Your oil level should be between the top full mark and the bottom add oil mark.
5. Never overfill your oil system it will cause problems:
a. oil leaking out of exhaust pipes.
b. oil leaking out of breather pipe/hose.
c. oil carryover into the air cleaner.
6. Your oil site glass must "NEVER" be, completely full or empty drain or add oil as necessary.
7. Your oil dipstick must "NEVER" be over the full mark and should never be below the add mark drain or add oil as needed.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/air-cooled-twins-technical-talk/184949-simple-question-check-the-oil-on-bonneville.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VV8Q7VVpEPQ
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/278334910-triumph-bonneville-service-manual-motorcycle-2001-2012 $15
https://www.triumphestore.com/
https://www.triumphmotorcycles.com/offers-and-services/manuals

2007 Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Frjaau it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine-tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
8. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
9. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/air-cooled-twins-technical-talk/156428-adjusting-tuning-carbs-on-08-bonneville.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnepyuOw3Xk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p44VNddZ7Zc
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/278334910-triumph-bonneville-service-manual-motorcycle-2001-2012 $15
https://www.triumphestore.com/
https://www.triumphmotorcycles.com/offers-and-services/manuals


2007 Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. A failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen the gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from the intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/air-cooled-twins-technical-talk/154191-help-keeps-cutting-out.html
https://www.triumphtalk.com/threads/bike-shut-off-twice-in-two-days.26025/
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/253883097-triumph-bonneville-2001-2007-workshop-service-repair-manual $15
https://www.triumphestore.com/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1359522/Triumph-Bonneville.html

2007 Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. A failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen the gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from the intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/air-cooled-twins-technical-talk/139801-engine-stalls-or-dies-suddenly-help-please.html
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=278352
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/253883097-triumph-bonneville-2001-2007-workshop-service-repair-manual $15
https://www.triumphestore.com/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1359522/Triumph-Bonneville.html

2007 Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Bruce and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).
10. Check for generated diagnostic codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/air-cooled-twins-technical-talk/226325-bonneville-backfiring.html
https://www.bertsmegamall.com/--Why-is-my-motorcycle-backfiring
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/253883097-triumph-bonneville-2001-2007-workshop-service-repair-manual $15
https://www.triumphestore.com/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1359522/Triumph-Bonneville.html

2007 Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Your carbs need cleaning and setting,, the needle and seats are what controls the flow of gas into the float bowls... the floats movement (up and down) regulate the movement (opening and closing) of the needle and seat

2007 Triumph... | Answered on Jul 12, 2017


Check all of the fuses. Next check the HT leads and HT coils (use a multimeter) Change the spark plug, spark plug wire, and replace the pick up coil if you don't see any resistance. Look for any broken, torn, or melted eletrical wires in the harness

2007 Triumph... | Answered on Jan 20, 2013


Hi. I have a 2006 Bonneville which needs changing to K.P.H. as I have just moved to France. I also have to change the headlight lense, how do you fancy doing a straight swop. My speedo has nearly 10,000 miles on the odometer

2007 Triumph... | Answered on May 30, 2012


Probably lack of lubrication from being stood for a while.
Hopefully no damage done.
Has the whine gone away now ? If not it will need to be investigated.
The pipes would not worry about if you mean they are very blue.

---


Please dont forget to vote this answer was helpful.

Many thanks

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2007 Triumph... | Answered on Mar 01, 2011


Then 10th digit in the vin number tells you the year.
If it is a W = 1998
X = 1999
Y = 2000
If it is a 1 = 2001
2 = 2002
etc.
So your 12/07 bike is a 2008 and the 10th digit in your vin # will be an 8

2007 Triumph... | Answered on Nov 30, 2010


its not too hard. the procedure is as follows:-- (The traditional way to get the seat off is by taking off the right side cover and removing a little allen wrench, and then unbolting the seat. The extended seat bolts eliminates this.)
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

2007 Triumph... | Answered on Mar 14, 2010


The carburater jets are plugged

2007 Triumph... | Answered on Nov 01, 2009


The fuel flow was not shut off when you found the leak right? If your leak has not returned then it was most likely caused from the fuel being forced back through float bowl, then up and out the air inlet in to your air cleaner. How much fuel did you find? Once the flow has been shut of to the carburetor there's not much fuel left to leak out. Maybe a 1/4 cup.
If you had more then that it had to be coming from the tank.

2007 Triumph... | Answered on Aug 22, 2009


There should be a CC designation on the engine casting - usually on the cylinder (hard 2 see)

2007 Triumph... | Answered on Jul 31, 2009


sounds like the throttle cables need to be looked over .( he get everything back to where it was before the lubing?)as one may be out of sync with the other. the oil change has NOTHING to do with the sputtering and surging ,stall .it would only apply if the clutch was slipping and that would make the bike rev with the car oil.

2007 Triumph... | Answered on Nov 10, 2008


Hi, Bobhamilt790 if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water, etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. Your engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, the engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark grey, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vintage-and-veteran/773594-carb-tuning.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ouUl2tZoW0
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/Repair/1970s/70-Triumph-Repair-Manual-63-70.pdf
https://partsbooks.britishonly.com/partsbooks/20-10201C.pdf
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/OwnersManuals/1970s/1972TriumphOwnersManual.pdf

Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019


Hi, Yagoonano1 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vintage-and-veteran/316393-1971-t120r-wont-start-help-2.html
http://classicmotorcycleforum.com/index.php?topic=3895.0
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/Repair/1970s/70-Triumph-Repair-Manual-63-70.pdf
https://partsbooks.britishonly.com/partsbooks/20-10305C.pdf
http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/OwnersManuals/1960s/68OwnersManualTriumph650s.pdf

Triumph... | Answered on Oct 17, 2019

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