Hi, Ilovekatrina it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turnover or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity or adventures, laying the bike down or crashes, rainstorms or bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints or aids into tracking down the gremlin, also for 2003 and older models carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes and reduce the risk of being stranded or towed also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM like parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or your speedometer sensor is contaminated and needs to be cleaned.
And the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Faulty charging system.
3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors
4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. The engine got wet where it didn't like to get wet.
6. Faulty ignition circuit spark plugs, coils, cables etc.
7. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. Run speedometer diagnostics and check for generated fault codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=49183 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luptiSaqnzk https://www.manualslib.com/manual/801932/Triumph-Daytona-675.html https://www.triumphestore.com/ https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1110475/Triumph-Daytona-675.html
Hi, Robert before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=36905 https://www.675.cc/675/threads/electrical-issue-all-power-gone.27432/ https://www.manualslib.com/manual/801932/Triumph-Daytona-675.html https://www.triumphestore.com/ https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1110475/Triumph-Daytona-675.html
Hi, Marcel and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Intake air leak.
9. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, fuel pump and/or filter.
10. Faulty fuel pressure regulator
11. Fuel tank vent system plugged.
12. Throttle body controls misadjusted.
13. Damaged throttle body or intake seals.
14. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
15. Faulty MAP, CKP, O2, and/or CMP sensors.
16. Incorrect valve timing.
17. Weak or broken valve springs.
18. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day. Rough Running Engine James on Engines 2 fuel injected bike running real rough How To Diagnosing Bad Triumph DAYTONA 675 Service Manual
Engine management light was on permernantly after replacing battery, took advice and let bike idle until thermo fan started, turned bike off and let thermo fan stop, restarted bike and engine management light went off. this proceedure resets engine management system. GREAT ADVICE thanks.
I don't know that model specifically but you can try going to a dealer and have them bring up a picture of the filter/airbox on their computer to compare to what you have. If there's no dust in the intake tract it's probably fine and just the way it's made.
So I just had this exact problem about an hour ago. I wondered about the starter, crankshaft, etc. but discarded them for the simplest explanation: battery.
I'm sure you've all noticed how absurdly easy it is to mistakenly miss the steering lock and put the parking lights on. Odds are you may have done this without realizing (I must've even if I don't remember). Jumper cables are the answer.
If you've never jumped a bike, here's the skinny:
1) Make sure the car you're jumping from is, and remains, off.
2) Connect the cables as normal; black to black, red to red.
3) Let the bike sit for a minute then start her up.
4) If you can, take her for a ride to get the charge back up.
If this doesn't work, then you may very well have more serious issues. Hope this helps, ride safe!
check wiring connections under tank, this was a common fault that the EGR valve plug came of or the Lambda sensor had poor connection, another favourite is jump starting a dead bike from a car, 85+ amps 12v into 16 amsp dont go and stiffs the ecu voltage control unit, ouch!
first off its a daytona 675... 75cc more compression. its slightly MORE powerful than the 600 class, yet not quite a 750.
the bike rides a little higher than most rice rockets (so make sure you're comfy on it), and being a tripple has a great powerband, kind of the best of both worlds (being an I4 and Vtwin)
The triumph was voted best in it class (600 class) by sport rider last year, and won international bike of the year award in 04.
IMO a ****ing great machine, and rare for that matter. i'd jump on it.