Top 20 2008 Triumph Daytona 675 Questions & Answers

Sounds like a spark plug issue to me. If you don't know how to check it out yourself, I'd suggest taking it to a shop. I had a spark plug issue a few years back in my mustang-thing busted off in the middle of a drive and tore through the engine. Had to rebuild the whole thing. Regards, Motorcycler https://motorcycler.com/

This is not normal. There should be an seal on the air box. The part number is T2208163.

I don't know that model specifically but you can try going to a dealer and have them bring up a picture of the filter/airbox on their computer to compare to what you have. If there's no dust in the intake tract it's probably fine and just the way it's made. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/oscar_403cc49e0f00cda7

I run 91 Octane as it is the highest grade available where I live. If you can get 93 I would recommend that.My Daytona runs between 5 and 6 bars on the temperature gauge. You'll find it will vary based on outside air temperature. You should look into getting "TuneECU". Its free software that you can use to connect to the bikes computer. Downloaded it here http://www.tuneecu.com/You should be able to pick up a ODBII - USB cable for under $20.With the software it will tell you what trouble codes or errors the ECU is having.

I would think YES oil will come out. Always change the oil, it helps.

first make sure the antifreeze is up to snuff, check the reading when th engine is hot, should be near the full mark

The switch for your kickstand mybe disconected. Or do you have the kickstand down.

check wiring connections under tank, this was a common fault that the EGR valve plug came of or the Lambda sensor had poor connection, another favourite is jump starting a dead bike from a car, 85+ amps 12v into 16 amsp dont go and stiffs the ecu voltage control unit, ouch!

adding the octane boost is no harm. . make sure battery is good, connections are good. it could be a small short, but unlikely for a newish bike

It seems the wiring around the ignition switch could be the problem, its worth checking the connections over there!

if its not turning over at all its probably the starter if its not firing then id say check the gas

Engine management light was on permernantly after replacing battery, took advice and let bike idle until thermo fan started, turned bike off and let thermo fan stop, restarted bike and engine management light went off. this proceedure resets engine management system. GREAT ADVICE thanks.

So I just had this exact problem about an hour ago. I wondered about the starter, crankshaft, etc. but discarded them for the simplest explanation: battery.
I'm sure you've all noticed how absurdly easy it is to mistakenly miss the steering lock and put the parking lights on. Odds are you may have done this without realizing (I must've even if I don't remember). Jumper cables are the answer.
If you've never jumped a bike, here's the skinny: 1) Make sure the car you're jumping from is, and remains, off. 2) Connect the cables as normal; black to black, red to red. 3) Let the bike sit for a minute then start her up. 4) If you can, take her for a ride to get the charge back up.
If this doesn't work, then you may very well have more serious issues. Hope this helps, ride safe!

sounds like the starter solonoid(or relay) has gone on vacation with out you or the bike the clicking noise would be the (relay) solonoid trying to complete the circut to engage the starter

first off its a daytona 675... 75cc more compression. its slightly MORE powerful than the 600 class, yet not quite a 750. the bike rides a little higher than most rice rockets (so make sure you're comfy on it), and being a tripple has a great powerband, kind of the best of both worlds (being an I4 and Vtwin) The triumph was voted best in it class (600 class) by sport rider last year, and won international bike of the year award in 04. IMO a ****ing great machine, and rare for that matter. i'd jump on it.

the battery is not ok have a load test done on it and have the starter circuit checked possible starter relay failure

about two thirds of the way down the cables there are two cable adjusters

What about the CPS do you have a question?

Well, thats one for the books I believe.Without having the bike in front of me, I would suggest first finding out where the problem is NOT. Start with your ignition. Pull off a spark plug boot with a pair of insulated pliers.Hold the boot close to the plug and try to start the bike.See if you are getting any spark.If yes,then your problem is fuel, but that doesnt add up to what caused your original issue with the tripmeter. So I am betting you will not have any spark to your plugs. In which case, you have either a short between the handlebars and the coils which is causing them not to get the power they need to fire the plugs, or depending on the ignition system you have, you may simply have a shorted ECM.Again, to test components like that you will need test equipment and a manual.if your going to do it yourself, be patient and dont give up.Or you could simply take it to a shop and pay them their fees to diagnose the circuit failure.Good luck and I hope it is something simple that you can fix yourself.

There should be a handle or lever under the seat on the right if you were sitting on the bike