20 Most Recent 1974 Yamaha DT 360 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Difficult one this ,if the carb numbers are the same, found on the side of the carb then you have a good chance ,but the jet sizes may differ do you have the original carb to transfer the jets.Sorry cant be more help. Pay particular attention to the choke size ,the hole through the middle,this size is usually part of the carb number eg 28.

Try "just dirt bikes" in Victoria.
The phone number is (03) 9391 8334.
Vince or Tony

Hope this helps
regards Andrew Porrelli

Yes, it does sound like a clutch, but make sure you have a little free play in the clutch lever. Age will make the clutch plates deteriorate.
You need to remove the right side engine cover to get at it. Take your time and note where all of the pieces are. Pre-soak the new clutch plates (The ones with fiber on them) in oil before you install them.

check for spark at the spark plug.. if no spark at the plug check the coil for spark where the plug wire plugs into the coil. that bike probably has points. check the points gap.

A service manual ( if you can find one ) is what you need. The second thing you need is repair parts. They are pretty hard to find. Babbitt's, a well known distributor, only has parts left in stock for the top end. Go to their website, www.babbittsonline.com/parts/viewbybrand/parts.aspx
and you can see what is left. There's also a diagram of the crankcase center halves. If you can't get the repair parts, spending hours doing an engine teardown is fruitless.

The teardown will require a flywheel puller, a case splitter, an impact driver, and a torque wrench (somewhat optional). Disassemble the top end then remove the left and right side case covers. Remove the flywheel and related electrics, the clutch, crankshaft drive gear, oil pump, kick starter, shift shaft assembly, shift drum end cap and index pins. Now remove the screws on the center case and you can then split the case. This gives you access to replace shift forks, gears, and bearings. Note that crank seals can be replaced without splitting the case.

I am not trying to be a smart *** here, but re-assembly is just the reverse of dis-assembly. This is why a manual would help. Another potential source for parts is to Google motorcycle salvage yamaha .
The normal things you would need to replace inside the center case would be bent shift forks (if shifting is the problem), busted gears, crank bearings and seals, and sprocket shaft bearing and seal. All else can be replaced by removing just the side covers.

should read over 300 volts A/C at plug wire cap. pull plug to kick over makes easier to test with no compression. one lead in plug cap and one to good earth ground anywhere on bike.

Compression is too low!

Replace the piston rings.

Also check continuity from engine to frame till high-tension coil...
Check if breaker points aren't dirty ( clean out with fine sandpaper )
Check breakerpoint settings

i actuall have a yamaha enduro 100 and had this same problem.
First thing is take the clutch apart take all the rings out and clean them good with momry cloth assemble the clutch compleatly as it came out and when tighting the springs tight them all one turn at a time and after everytime you go around try to move youre clutch with youre bike in gear. if it trys to move it is engageing just keep turning the screws untill they stop. also recomend putting threadlocker on the drive gear bolt and the clutch bolt that holds the clutch on. if you have and questions just e-mail me at [email protected] just make shure to tell me that i responded to youre fixya question about youre bike and i will walk you threw it.

ps just rember to put the clutch pushrod back in

The 360 had a mukuni - mostly obsolete - go to mukuni web and look for a replacement.

With the springs out,compress the forks fully then fill them to 150mm (6in) from the top. Refit springs and caps and you are good to go

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Try these sites for your parts

It's an older model but didn't it have a fibre sort of washer to go into the head,and the flanged end of the pipe was then pushed in.It then may have been held in place by 2 springs from the pipe to the head.I might be wrong so don't bet the farm on it.Hope this helps

Dave, to answer a question all you need to do is select either "Solution" or "Clarification Request" then type in your reply and click on "Post It".
There is no need to post an entirely new "question".

Best wishes

I seem to remember that they were oil injection, and had a tank seperate for oil, but...32:1 will work if it's pre-mix, just jet the carburator to match that and you will be fine.

loosen off the screw that you tightened up, sounds to me like the needle and seat valve is dirty, you will need to take the carb apart and either clean it well or put a carb kit in it.Very inexpensive and your carb will work much better. what is happening is the needle and seat are sticking and causing the carb float not to work properly, the float stays down and the carb continues to fill with gas, causing it to flud out.

the carb piston slide has a needle in center

lower the retainer clip on needle to richen fuel

here a carb manual.pdf that will give the basic principle of tuning

remove any rubber, plastic parts an soak carb in lacquer thinner and use a copper brush remove tarnish

Same happended to me with exactly the same motorcycle... I solved the provblem by replacing the crankshaft oil seal on the rightside of the crankcase. It solved the problem immediatly!

Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.

Use TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL in the pump. If not using an automatic oil pump, then mix the gas and oil 32 to 1. That equals 4 ounces of TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL to one gallon of gas. NEVER use motor oil in the gas. Only two stroke engine oil.

A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

its not an electrical problem. the engine either misfires or backfires. you have to be careful since kickbacks can be painful when the stater lever hits your leg.i believe you have to retune your engine, since its an old bike.

Hi there and welcome to fixya!

Here are some tips that may help:

1. Make sure plugs are clean and you're using good fuel quality. (tank should be clean of water moisture).

2. Turn the air-fuel mixture 2.5 turns out. This is assuming you haven't replaced the stock jet size. If you have increased the jets. Start at 1.5 turns out, if air filter is clean and free flow, you may use 1 turn out. Turn out or inward to make minor adjustment.
Usually experimenting with the air and fuel mixture would do the trick.

Let me know if this helps.

-levibit