20 Most Recent 1982 Yamaha XJ 650 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

use a hair dryer to heat up plastic parts and a little oil and parts will slide right on.

it connects to the metal fitting thats on the intake manifolds

Autozone may have the manual for your specific bike.

Check the kickstand switch is not broken and that the kill switch has not failed.

On Two-strokes you mix the oil and the gas together. If it has an oil pump the bike will do this for you if you fill up the oil tank.

if there oil fouled then rings or valve guides are bad from age--if gas fouled then the carbs need ajust or spark is bad--getta clymer manual

chec connections in ignition area and make sure batt has 12.6volts-that motor has alotta horses--carb probly needs overhaul or choke maintenance

turn signals need full 12.7 battery voltage to work sometimes when the batt is loww only one side will blink ,if the flasher is bad sometimes only one side will blink charge ur batt and try again a quick check to see if both sides are wired correctly or that the wires to the side not working is to unplug the flasher a small square box sometimes under tank or left side cover and jump the two wires and put blinkers on each side they should come on but not blink and that will tell u if ur flasher is ok or not good luck!

your charging system might be bad.

The idle adjust screw is usually accessed from under the carbs, usually in between the #2 & #3 carbs. Start the bike and rotate the head of the Screw/Bolt/Knerled adjuster one way until the idle revschange, if the speed decreases, turn it the other way until the idle RPM is where you want it.

take ur frt wheel off and check ur bearings with ur finger they should turn free and smooth and also look at ur speedo drive sometimes if the wheel was just off people don't line up the drive and the tabs hit bending the drive on the wheel into the bearing.

Have you tryed turning it over with a spanner on the crankshaft

Front or rear , try spraying WD40 into it & operate it a few times to rid the contacts inside of corrosion, if STILL no joy , replace . They are cheap.

Mine was stored for 20 years, I ended up replacing the seat and needles, cleaning them thoroughly and when I tried starting it, nothing!! No gas was going to the carbs, it turned out to be my gas pump, it was seized by the old gas remains 'varnish' so I had to clean it numerous times, soaked it in gas cleaner (short period at a time 15 minutes or so, being a very powerful cleaner, you cannot leave it for long without causing greater problems, thus I was able to get the pump going by boosting it with my car batterie, having more cranking amps directly to the pump, the pump was able to release itself from the old crusty varnish.

Hi Dave...I think you mean YICS, which stands for Yamaha Induction Control System. Back in the day this was the latest & greatest in modern technology, this engines are considered classics now.
Yamaha introduced Yamaha Induction Control System in 1979 as a fuel-saving engine system in 4-stroke motors...It was ahead of it's time actually. These engines burn cleaner, get better mileage, and produce more power. It will work fine in your bike.

I hope this helps & good luck with your bike.

looking from the left side, the crank spins counter clockwise.
I'm intrigued how you would turn it backwards, if you touch the starter or kick start, it is going to go the correct way. If the tensioner is working it shouldnt slip anyway

20w40 is most common for bikes and unless you have shaft drive there is no oil in the rearend. Good luck

i have a kawasaki 750 classic and on mine i had to change the headlight from RHD to LHD dip and i lost the connections as my friend was helping and as he took it out he dropped the headlight and all the little push in plugs come away but it wasnt difficult to sort out as i used my multi meter and turned the side light on first and found the feed then the indicators and so on till had one wire left and i couldnt find where it went so i shone torch on it and decided it had never been connected as it was all sort of dirty .Iam red/green colour blind so this is the only way i can do certain jobs like this .

When the bike is on the center stand and on a level surface, the oil should be in the middle of the window. Chances are strong that compression is getting past the piston rings and into the gear box. The compression carries air and fuel into the box. The fuel mixes with the oil and will increase the amount of "oil-gas" in the box. As the oil-gas level rises, the air carries some of the oil-gas out of the box and into the air box. The fix is to bore the cylinders and install 1st oversize piston and rings. Re-seat the valves wile the engine is apart. Put it all back together and you have a near new engine with power you did not know was there.

Many use 15-40 diesel oil in their XS650's. Here's why: It has the high-load package, that Detroit had removed from the SH & SJ-rated oils, for fear of long long-term catalytic convertor damage. This is important for lubricating the transmission and air-cooled camshafts. It is Allison C4 rated, suitable for wet clutches, instead of having the friction modifiers Detroit insisted on to up the corporate gas mileage numbers. This is important to our XSs, since the poor exhaust ports and flywheels in the oil raise the oil temperatures. Many XS1s lost engines due to unnoticed slipping clutches that heated the oil and broke it down, causing engine failures. Hope this helps Fix Ya up