20 Most Recent 2000 Yamaha DT 125 R - Page 7 Questions & Answers

i sounds like when you sit on your bike your traping a fule line and stoping it getting fule as for it not reving up thats also short of fule it could be a blocked pipe or a blocked jet in the carb as you say it starts ok if you hold your hand over the carb this is the choke not working but as soon as its warmed up it dont need a choke, so its back to the carb jets blocked or fule shortage, also look at the air filter is it clean also cheak the exhaust pipe,,,if its slightly blocked it wont go very well, if at all,,,

servo valve sounds like it needs adjust or the power valve adjusting do you have a manual ?

YOUR GONNA HAVE TO BUY A MANUAL FOR SPECIFIC INFO ON YOUR BIKE THEY ARE ONLY ABOUT 20 BUCKS If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_00678fd4800d19c5

If the hoses are anti-freeze, take the bottom out put hose from engine to the top of radiator then bottom of ratiator to top of engine

try squirting some fuel on the inlet and see if it firse get back to me with results

just check ur push-rod....

If it is a hydraulic clutch, i would continue to squeeze handle to build up pressure. If it is only a cable clutch, Re-check your clutch springs that you should have replaced. They should not be all in the same direction.

when replacing these bulbs take extra care to not tough them with your bare hands....all halogens are like this..... even for cars.
where gloves or clean you hands real good to get the oils off of them.

you either got too much fuel or too less fuel being pulled in the engine on carb there is 2 screws you need to find the mixture screw and screw it in if it runs worse screw it out 2/12 turns this picture will show you it

hi you are DEFINATLEY getting combustion gases into the rad so if th h/gasket is ok then either the head is cracked or the barrel is when it is cold it's probably ok but as soon as it gets hot the crack expands and it gets worse and worse if you can, make up an adapter out of an old spark plug to take an air line blow air in /block off the inlet and exaust ports water/air will come out of rad the other problems are all linked with the water prob hope this helps merlin v12

You have several possibilities;

• The slide in the carb is not closing properly,
• The throttle cable is stretched or kinked so that the cable is binding up.
• The rubber seals mounting the carb to the manifold are old, hard and cracked. This lets extra air into the fuel making it lean which makes the engine go nuts. The original seal was broken when the carb was removed from the cylinder.
• The reed valves are cracked, chipped or broken.
• The new head gasket is not sealing properly and is sucking in air. You DID tighten the head bolts in a pattern, a bit at a time, and you DID use a torque wrench, didn't you?
• The timing is pre-set, you have no points or condenser. You may have messed up the timing by trying to adjust it.
• Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?

Hi fit butcher,

The assembly of DT's speedo are all the same after 1998 models. below is a picture of a 2002 DT125/175. the assembly is the same, only that yours does not have a tachometer, yet the placement of the assembly is the same.



and here is the manual for your unit,

hope this helps,

regards,

voodoo

have you changed the battery?

B9ES

swap your cables to the power valve around

The carb probably is dirty or has some water in the float bowl, if you can first remove the float bowl without removing carb to see if there is any water or foriegn matter in the bowl try not to splill gas while removing so you can see what is in there

Disconnect the clutch cable at the side case. Now try the lever. If it is easy then the problem is not the cable. A short handle does make it harder to pull the clutch in. Get a new lever and hook the cable back up to the side case. If the clutch lever is still hard to pull in, try changing the gearbox oil. Dirt and grit can build up and cause the clutch to become stiff. If an oil change doesn't fix the problem after riding for an hour, get back to me by posting a comment.

The brown oil is water mixed into the oil. If I recall correctly the DT bikes were air cooled. The water would be condensation in the gearbox. Just drain the oil and ride more often. If the bike is water cooled the two seals on the water pump shaft are bad. This is not a major repair. The bike probably needs new crank seals. Go ahead and clean the carb as water and trash may have accumulated restricting the fuel flow to the motor. Install an in-line fuel filter.

Use TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL in the pump. If not using an automatic oil pump, then mix the gas and oil 32 to 1. That equals 4 ounces of TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL to one gallon of gas. NEVER use motor oil in the gas. Only two stroke engine oil. Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.

If the tank is rusting, you need to seal it up. Google “ kreem fuel tank liner “ or go to www.http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html

The teloscopic forks have mounts for disc brakes so you would need forks from a bike with disc brakes and the front tire with the rotor and caliper all off the same bike so it would all bolt up. Most forks are the same diameter but measure to make sure.

Use TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL in the pump. If not using an automatic oil pump, then mix the gas and oil 32 to 1. That equals 4 ounces of TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL to one gallon of gas. NEVER use motor oil in the gas. Only two stroke engine oil. There may be an oil build up in the crankcase. Do a 64 to one gas/oil mix for awhile. Watch closely. when the smoke reaches proper levels go back to the 32/1 mix.

A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!