20 Most Recent 2002 Yamaha TT-R 125 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

While sitting on the bike, reach down and grab the chain in the center of the front and rear sprocket,lift the chain up and down, you should have 1inch to 2inch slack up and down.

If the compression is good and you have a spark at the plug, remove the carburetor and give it a thorough cleaning. Take care not to attempt to clean jets with anything made of steel or you will wind up damaging them and buying new ones. If you don't feel comfortable disassembling the carburetor, remove it and take it to the shop for a rebuild instead of hauling the whole bike; but first ensure that you have compression and spark.

The smaller engines seem to need the original air filter covers, and a good element.
adjust the mixture screw with the cover in place.
Not sure why, I assume they need some negative pressure in the air box , for the carb to s uck the fuel through the jets as it was designed ( thats my guess anyway) not necessarily too much air, but not enough fuel.

10w-40 should work just fine. I prefer a full synthetic, like Amsoil or Bel Ray. Avoid "energy conserving" oils. They contain additives the clutch won't tolerate. API rating SL/CF,SJ,SH,SG are all acceptable. Happy biking!

Thank you for the inquiry.
This is one of those projects in life that best requires special tools (Spoke Jig) and a lot of patience. I also recommend a couple of good quality spoke wrenches. The one that comes with your tool kit usually is for general emergency spoke tightening and minimal maintenance. Even at the shops there is not to many people that know how to do this well. It's time consuming and shop labor is expensive.
That being said here goes:
To get started you will need to know a couple of things:

1. Spoke lacing pattern
2. Rear sprocket/hub alignment position. (Chain must run true from front primary sprocket) this applies only if this is a rear wheel.

I've posted a link to some helpful pictures of wheel lacing on various bikes to give you a few tips and pointers. http://www.rcycle.com/wheellacing.html
Look at the spoke pattern on your other wheel to determine the direction to push the spokes through and determine the spacing pattern for the short or long spokes.
1) Lay the hub flat on a bench and install the spokes loosely in correct pattern. 2) Lay the rim over the spokes and push them through. Spoke direction corresponds to the receiving angle on the rim. Important to get started correctly than alternate. 3) Thumb tighten a couple of the nuts/ferrels loosely to hold rim in position. 4) Tighten nuts according to get the hub centered as best as possible (just to temporarily hold) 5) You can build a fixture with a couple of 2 x 4s as shown in the illustration or carefully clamp the bikes axel in a vice, not to damage the threads or pinch the axel nut.Horizontal position. 6) You will need to clamp a coat hanger or a heavy piece of wire to something solidly fixed to act as a reference guide. 7) Tighten spokes first for correct up/down centering then for left/right centering. 8) UP and Down: Position your gauge wire close to the top/front of the rim and rotate. Finger tighten and loosen the spoke nuts until you get the wheel running true for up/down motion. Keep going around and redoing until you get it as perfect as you can finger tight only. 9) Move you wire gauge to the side of the rim and repeat process. The front rim has a disc brake position to align for (not to critical) and the rear rim has a critical sprocket position to maintain. You will have to measure the sprocket offset to get it correct. Chain must run true. 10) Spin the rim on the axel for reference and Keep going around and tightening and loosening the spokes until you get the side alignment running true. May take a while and many spins. 11) Once you get the rim running true for both wobble and run out you are ready to slowly start tightening the spoke nuts with your spoke wrench's. Take you time and keep tightening in tiny amounts until you get tight and true. Tap the spokes as you go and listen for tension. 12) When you tap if you get a dull thunk - it's a little loose. If you get a ringing musical string sound you know you are tight and/or close depending on the amount of ring. Take your time.
Before you mount the tire be sure you mount the rim on the bike and run the axel in place to final check for front brake rotor alignment or real sprocket alignment. You may have to adjust.
I have always wrapped duct tape in the V-slot to hold the nuts and prevent spokes from coming up and puncturing the tube. Go around several times. Just maintain the groove so you can still have room to place the tire bead in to stretch for mounting.
Best wishes and good luck from a fellow biker/racer.
TF

intake valves are leaking

First thing put a new spark plug in and see if that improves how it runs. then if it dosent improve i would look at your carb next, also look at what your spark plug looks like should be brown not black or gray.

Id check out utube.

something is not lined up with the hole...its just going to take a little messing around. make sure the shift forks are sitting in the shift barrel. as your lining the shafts up, you will need to apply medium pressure to cases and "TAP" the top half together with a dead blow hammer, just tap, dont go beating the hell out of it. the bearings are such a tight tolerance its going to be a little hard a little WD-40 on the shafts will help, and it will evaporate in a day, but that will help. go to youtube, and type in rebuild a tt-r or even yz250f, a guy calling himself "jonnys shop" has a video that might help you see how to get a case together.this one would be easier for me to do it versus telling someone....it take a little monkeying around. just jet everything lined up, it will be tight. hope this helped

adjust the clutch, its still engage.... like half clutch thats why its hard to move or roll... and its bad for your clutch linnings...

between $300-500.00 depending on where u go and how many parts have to be replaced If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_00678fd4800d19c5

put new spark plug after sitting over the winter this usually cures the problem:)

Petseal will fix that. Ebay have it.

Usually nothing.
The valves usually bend easily , and the connecting rod bearing usually can take it.
With bad luck, you could have cracked the piston, bent the rod, squashed the bearing, damaged the crank, and worn the valve guide.
You can tell if the guide is warn by inserting a new valve and seeing it is rocks side to side too much.
Of course the real questions is how you threw the timing chain and allowed the valve to get bent?

the carburetor settings are easy : 1- locate the screw mixture air /fuel 2- wind the screw all the way in 3- unwind the screw 1 1/2 turn and this should be sufficient to set the carburetor back to its original settings for the air/fuel mixture . 4- as for the idling screw , wind it down to suit the revs required

does it start upon turning the keys?

Got to BikeBandit.com. Click OEM parts and look up your bike. They've got great exploded views of every part of the bike. I wouldn't use the penetrating oil. Now, what you might can do is put the transmission in top gear, hold the clutch lever in, and rock the bike back and forth. Sometimes that will break the clutch loose but it can also tear the friction material off the metal backing disc. The best thing is take the clutch apart.

When you get the clutch plates out, wash them in gasoline. Do not smoke while doing this and be very careful of static electricity. Gasoline is the only thing I've found that would break the glaze otherwise I'd say use something else, Just be careful when using it. Once you washed all the plates off, lay a piece of medium grit emory cloth on a flat surface. Lay the friction plates on the emory cloth and lightly sand them using a figure "8" pattern. Just lightly. Put the clutch back together by installing a friction disc, a metal disc, a friction disc, and so on.
You'll do fine. Just remember, don't force anything. If something is supposed to come off but doesn't seem to want to, look for another bolt that you may have overlooked.

Good Luck
Steve

It sounds like your clutches are stuck.If the bike has been sitting for awhile the clutch plates will stick together. Sometimes they will unstick.1st I would change the oil. Then i would place the front tire up against a solid wall start the bike pull in clutch put in gear ,repeat a few times.If this does not unstick the clutch you might have to replace your fiber clutch plates.Hope these helps
D.

If you were riding it before where you live then that is not the problem. Could be that your jets in your carb are dirty. Your main jet might have a piece of dirt lodged in it. Does it have a fuel filter in line between the Fuel Tank and Carb? If so, you might want to change it. Also, If you have your carb cleaned, it should run better. I hope that this helps.

Its a 4 stroke trail bike. They never like to start when its cold. Just make sure the plug is good and make sure the choke is actually working. Other than that, kick it until you get mad, then kick it some more and it will eventually start.