20 Most Recent 2004 Yamaha YZF-R6 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

the 60 being displayed on your dash is a diagnostic code letting you know you have an ECU (main computer, black box) malfunction. Possibly something to do with your TPS ( throttle position sensor ) that's why you can't give it any gas ( no signal either to the ECU, or through the ECU).

Fuel filter? Trash in the tank? Other fuel delivery system devices. Ecu (computer) fuel injectors? DYIer get the repair manual from your parts supplier.

No. There were changes through the years and the electronics between the two years are different.

Under the seat.

Install a new pump. They don't last forever especially if you have been letting it sit.

All three are a matched set if your bike was a theft recovery then your insurance company would pay for it.

Your clutch is smoked. Time for a new one.

Time for a new clutch assuming you let all the adjustment out.

disconnect your battery to try to reset your computer

Slippage

• Slippage is a clutch problem that occurs when the pressure plate is unable to hold the friction disc against the flywheel tightly when the clutch is engaged. This causes the disc to rotate at a different speed than the flywheel. The high temperature caused by friction against the disc will eventually damage the clutch plate and necessitate a replacement. On clutches with mechanical linkage, adjustment can forestall replacement for a time. If you notice the engine revving abnormally as the clutch is released, and the car accelerates gradually, then it could be a slippage problem. It's possible that grease or oil on the disc is causing the slippage or the engine mount could be broken, causing the linkage to be bound up by an improperly moving engine. Another common cause of slippage is when the friction plate is simply worn out from use. A clutch will not last forever, and over time the clutch will begin slipping. Adjustments will not fix this problem, as a worn out friction plate will require complete replacement.

Vibration

• A grabbing or chattering clutch is an indicator that there is a problem inside the clutch mechanism. It is an easily noticed problem. Symptoms include a vibration or jerking as the clutch is released, especially when accelerating from a stop. This problem may be the result of a damaged or broken disc, flywheel or pressure plate. It may also be caused by loose springs or worn engine mounts, according to the Integrated Publishing website on Clutch Troubleshooting.

I HAVE YZF R6 2003, WHEN I START THE ENGINE AFTER ALMOST 5 MINUTE RECTIFIER REGULATOR OVER HEATING AND DAMAGE CONECTION

Check fuel petcock filter and any inline fuel filters. Possible dirt or water was taken in .

This problem affects all bikes the reason the bike stalls out when idling low or when the clutch is pulled in is because of Fuel/Air/Combustion ....

Wrong reasons

1. If it was the spark plugs the bike would run rough in all gears all the time

2. IF it was Fuel pump you would notice poor performance in all gears and sometimes the bike will not start depending if the pump is punched.

3. GUYS! It's not the kick stand, I see this answer all the time (makes me laugh)

4. It is not sensor issue ether because well if sensor is bad whole thing will not work

5. It is not the clutch cable, because the stall happens then clutch is engaged

SOLUTION

Throttle bodies / VALVES need to be adjusted and synchronized (BY Professional) Do not attempt to do yourself involves opening cam cover and messing with Springs/Valves

Explained what is happening inside your engine/heads

---- Your bike is so many years old and has say 20,000km on it...depending how hard the bike has been ridden in its life this may have to be done sooner... Your Valve operates on Rockers and Springs inside the Cylinder Head... Over time the springs become less springy this requires Shimming of sprigs or if you are lucky (price) simple screw adjustment... As you ride the valves are not closing all the way, you do not feel this because you are traveling at high enough RPM to keep the engine going ....as soon as you engage the clutch it Revs down to 1750RPM, and now that the Valves are not closed properly the combustion stops happening...Simply put your engine chokes its self out

MAJOR SIMPTOMS

1 BACK FIRE OF EXAUST (WHILE IN HI RPM) Sounds cool but not good for engine

2 CLICKING IN ENGINE - Almost sounds Valves are running with no oil (listen close you will hear)

3 NO TORQUE/HORSE POWER- When in good shape power wheelie is achievable at 5000-6000 RPM (on a 600cc)

This must be done for the following

Yamaha YZF R6 - 24,000km

Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki ----Not sure (I know for fact it's less 16,000ish)

they sound like dealer techs-dont go bac----u hav a lean-rich problem-an 02 sensor or other is creating it--scan motor and run a data stream-find a good mech with his own shop

The stator coils are not the only part of a generator. the bit that rotates is just as important for generation. You have changed everything else so that only leaves the rotor. Check the voltage at the battery when it is running at approx 2000 rpm. the voltage should be above 13.5 but below 15. I would guess that in your case the voltage is below 5. So you should change the Rotor. Sorry, Hope this helps.

I have a friend he had an R1 his 2nd and 3rd gears blew out and wheelies seemed to be the culprit. in the wheelie the trans oil drains to the back of the trans starving the first few gears of oil.was your bike a wheelie machine? you may never know.

Check the sensor on the kick stand. Check for damage on wiring or proper fitment.