2004 Yamaha YZF-R6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Fuel filter? Trash in the tank? Other fuel delivery system devices. Ecu (computer) fuel injectors? DYIer get the repair manual from your parts supplier.

No. There were changes through the years and the electronics between the two years are different.

Under the seat.

Install a new pump. They don't last forever especially if you have been letting it sit.

All three are a matched set if your bike was a theft recovery then your insurance company would pay for it.

Your clutch is smoked. Time for a new one.

Time for a new clutch assuming you let all the adjustment out.

disconnect your battery to try to reset your computer

Slippage

• Slippage is a clutch problem that occurs when the pressure plate is unable to hold the friction disc against the flywheel tightly when the clutch is engaged. This causes the disc to rotate at a different speed than the flywheel. The high temperature caused by friction against the disc will eventually damage the clutch plate and necessitate a replacement. On clutches with mechanical linkage, adjustment can forestall replacement for a time. If you notice the engine revving abnormally as the clutch is released, and the car accelerates gradually, then it could be a slippage problem. It's possible that grease or oil on the disc is causing the slippage or the engine mount could be broken, causing the linkage to be bound up by an improperly moving engine. Another common cause of slippage is when the friction plate is simply worn out from use. A clutch will not last forever, and over time the clutch will begin slipping. Adjustments will not fix this problem, as a worn out friction plate will require complete replacement.

Vibration

• A grabbing or chattering clutch is an indicator that there is a problem inside the clutch mechanism. It is an easily noticed problem. Symptoms include a vibration or jerking as the clutch is released, especially when accelerating from a stop. This problem may be the result of a damaged or broken disc, flywheel or pressure plate. It may also be caused by loose springs or worn engine mounts, according to the Integrated Publishing website on Clutch Troubleshooting.

I HAVE YZF R6 2003, WHEN I START THE ENGINE AFTER ALMOST 5 MINUTE RECTIFIER REGULATOR OVER HEATING AND DAMAGE CONECTION

Check fuel petcock filter and any inline fuel filters. Possible dirt or water was taken in .

This problem affects all bikes the reason the bike stalls out when idling low or when the clutch is pulled in is because of Fuel/Air/Combustion ....

Wrong reasons

1. If it was the spark plugs the bike would run rough in all gears all the time

2. IF it was Fuel pump you would notice poor performance in all gears and sometimes the bike will not start depending if the pump is punched.

3. GUYS! It's not the kick stand, I see this answer all the time (makes me laugh)

4. It is not sensor issue ether because well if sensor is bad whole thing will not work

5. It is not the clutch cable, because the stall happens then clutch is engaged

SOLUTION

Throttle bodies / VALVES need to be adjusted and synchronized (BY Professional) Do not attempt to do yourself involves opening cam cover and messing with Springs/Valves

Explained what is happening inside your engine/heads

---- Your bike is so many years old and has say 20,000km on it...depending how hard the bike has been ridden in its life this may have to be done sooner... Your Valve operates on Rockers and Springs inside the Cylinder Head... Over time the springs become less springy this requires Shimming of sprigs or if you are lucky (price) simple screw adjustment... As you ride the valves are not closing all the way, you do not feel this because you are traveling at high enough RPM to keep the engine going ....as soon as you engage the clutch it Revs down to 1750RPM, and now that the Valves are not closed properly the combustion stops happening...Simply put your engine chokes its self out

MAJOR SIMPTOMS

1 BACK FIRE OF EXAUST (WHILE IN HI RPM) Sounds cool but not good for engine

2 CLICKING IN ENGINE - Almost sounds Valves are running with no oil (listen close you will hear)

3 NO TORQUE/HORSE POWER- When in good shape power wheelie is achievable at 5000-6000 RPM (on a 600cc)

This must be done for the following

Yamaha YZF R6 - 24,000km

Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki ----Not sure (I know for fact it's less 16,000ish)

they sound like dealer techs-dont go bac----u hav a lean-rich problem-an 02 sensor or other is creating it--scan motor and run a data stream-find a good mech with his own shop

The stator coils are not the only part of a generator. the bit that rotates is just as important for generation. You have changed everything else so that only leaves the rotor. Check the voltage at the battery when it is running at approx 2000 rpm. the voltage should be above 13.5 but below 15. I would guess that in your case the voltage is below 5. So you should change the Rotor. Sorry, Hope this helps.

Check the sensor on the kick stand. Check for damage on wiring or proper fitment.

replace the kill/stop switch.

While it may be possible that it's a wiring fault, unless you have done something that you think might have disturbed the wiring, this is pretty unlikely.

It's entirely possible that your low beam bulb has blown. Even if you have 2 bulbs, it's not uncommon that as the bulb faults out, it takes out a fuse as it fails, so you would do well to check the fuse box and see if all your fuses are intact. I'm not familiar with this particular bike, but yamaha fuses are usually in the side pannel on the opposite side to the battery in a rubber housing about 2 inches long and an inch wide. (There is usually a single main fuse near the battery, but if this had gone, it would probably have killed most of the electrics on the bike).

Check fuses (Hopefully, the cover of the fuse box has a list of which fuse does what, but there will only be about 6 fuses, so check all of them. Yamaha also have a lovely habit of listing the fuses in the top of the cover on the fuse box, but just to confuse the issue, the list is upside down in relation to the way the fuses run!). You will also find that there are usually 3 spare fuses in the box that you can swap out for a dead one.

Having checked the fuses, PARTICULARLY if you find a blown one, take out the bulbs before you turn the bike on again and check them too. On occasion, a bulb will short out as it fails, blowing the fuse. You swap the fuse, switch the bike on and the defective bulb takes the fuse out again!
Take each of the bulbs out and put them across a battery or a battery charger to test them.

If all the above doesn't get you anywhere, then, and only then, start looking for a wiring problem.

You will find loads of R6 manuals (With wiring diagrams) for various years here if you do need to investigate further:
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-maintenance-technical/39254-r6-service-maintenance-repair-manual.html

Here ya go.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-Yamaha-YZF-R6-YZFR6-Fuel-Pump-Sending-Unit-84O-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2312503a4eQQitemZ150631103054QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Sounds like fuel delivery, check throttle bodies for obstructions and make sure each injector is firing also check to make sure all four cylinders are firing,(you will hear it suffer when it does fire wide open ) those early R6's are known for having ignition coils go bad.

flat battery or blown main fuse