20 Most Recent 2005 Yamaha XT 125 X - Page 5 Questions & Answers


Hi, Sanjay for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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Yamaha... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


Hi, Billy for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.yam-r125.net/adjusting_the_valve_clearance-125.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rr06fihgd_s
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https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/motorsports/owners-manuals

Yamaha... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


Hi, Tandy and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Battery damaged or nearly discharged, should have 12.5 volts.
4. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
6. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
7. Water or dirt in the carburetor.
8. Intake air leak.
9. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or the fuel line is closed off, restricting fuel flow.
10. Choke valve inoperative.
11. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
12. Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
13. Faulty ignition coil.
14. Valves sticking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.facebook.com/171109872920925/photos/a.238194019545843/374609199237657/?type=1&theater
https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/5643/motorcycle-with-efi-not-starting-well
https://usermanual.wiki/Document/yamahat115servicemanualuoezmze.582485069.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
http://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/?r=0

Yamaha... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


Hi, Rhys for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Mikilon, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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http://www.classiccycles.org/1852/597985.html
http://ironbrothersmc.com/motors/Yamaha/Yamaha_XV_V-Twins_81-94.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
https://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-xv-owners-manuals/

Yamaha... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


Hi, Arthur and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. A faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://motorcyclistlifestyle.com/hotwire-a-motorcycle/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRD58qqmRWE
http://www.xjcd.org/book/export/html/77
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/898875/Yamaha-Xj600sk.html#product-Seca%20II

Yamaha... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


It appears to be a part of the battery. When you look at the battery there is a plug attached to it.

Yamaha... | Answered on Sep 19, 2019


it will clean up your carbs somewhat. i use it in every engine driven device i own except my cars...maybe you need to set your idle speed a bit higher???

Yamaha... | Answered on Sep 14, 2019


Hi there, i posted link to manual, just look carefully for download button, its small down the middle of the screen, let me know if you come right otherwise ill download it for you and just send you new link, the only reason i haven't done that yet is cause my net is slow but will if i really have to. :)

http://www.manualedereparatie.info/en/download/yamaha-fj-1100-1200-1984-1993-Service-manual.html

Yamaha... | Answered on Sep 13, 2019


i suggest you find and buy a repair manual

Yamaha... | Answered on Sep 11, 2019


Either low battery or the solenoid/starter is going bad.

Yamaha... | Answered on Sep 11, 2019


  • Follow the thick red cable from the battery and it should take you to the solenoid

Yamaha... | Answered on Sep 02, 2019


Hi, Jay for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
http://www.49ccscoot.com/manuals/Yamaha_Vino_125_Service_Manual.pdf
OEM parts for Yamaha
Tips Tricks

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


Yamaha... | Answered on Aug 30, 2019


Hi, Dipsundar before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed, depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.quora.com/My-R15-bike-is-not-starting-Why
https://www.r1-forum.com/threads/buzzing-noise-no-start.350503
Yamaha YZF R15 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
Yamaha YZF R15A Owner Manual

Yamaha... | Answered on Aug 29, 2019


quite likely either the killswitch shorted out or the starter solenoid has taken a dump. you can cross the posts of the solenoid with a screw driver with the ignition in the on position. if it starts then you have a bad starter solenoid.

Yamaha... | Answered on Aug 29, 2019


Hi, Hugo it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turnover or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity or adventures, laying the bike down or crashes, rainstorms or bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints or aids into tracking down the gremlin, also for 2003 and older models carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes and reduce the risk of being stranded or towed also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM like parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or your speedometer sensor is contaminated and needs to be cleaned.
And the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Faulty charging system.
3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors
4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. The engine got wet where it didn't like to get wet.
6. Faulty ignition circuit spark plugs, coils, cables etc.
7. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. Run speedometer diagnostics and check for generated fault codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Motorcycle Dash Warning Lights
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0vC8yE3_Ls
Yamaha XC125 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
List of Yamaha motorcycles

Yamaha... | Answered on Aug 26, 2019


check the fuel flow and fuel filter.

Yamaha... | Answered on Aug 23, 2019


Fire meaning run a second ok spray bottle w gas in it and air filter box tube off carb inlet have assistant to crank on your command.. spray 4 pumps of gas into carb inlet w grip wide open close grip have assistant crank bike if it starts be ready to pump a squirt of fuel erry 3 seconds . If it stays running doing this . Then you're carb idle circuit is clogged . Carb will be coming off fo cleaning. Kevin or dellorto or some brand of carb clearly marked ?

Yamaha... | Answered on Aug 20, 2019


they have only ever made 2 sizes and any one working on motors should own both

Yamaha... | Answered on Aug 19, 2019


Hi, I would take it apart to free the clutch, there is another option that may work but thats up to you, put the bikes front wheel against a wall, put in gear hold the clutch in just to put presure on it, press the starter,all the best.
(Just to say I would always advise some one else to take it apart)

Yamaha... | Answered on Aug 16, 2019


I once had an issue on my CB550 when I turned right I'd blow a fuse. It turned out there was a frayed turn signal cable. Every time I turned so far the wires shorted. Look for bare, or frayed wires near your left front turn signal.

Yamaha... | Answered on Aug 13, 2019

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