20 Most Recent 2005 Yamaha V-Max Questions & Answers

If that weephole is the hole in the middle of cylider's head width on its side, that is for draining the excess of water that goes into the plug's tunnel and avoid puddling around it.If you see antifreeze leaking out of that hole, you should ckeck the coolant hoses that are mounted on the top of cylinder's head above the head's cover, for loose fitting or damage.

Hello! To remove the Battery, Take off seat, unscrew the 2 little bolts holding on the coils, mark or remember which coil wire goes where and undo them by un screwing the ends that goes into the coils and pull them out, move them aside and lift the 2 coils with the plate they are connected to up enough to get access to Bat. then with a philips screw driver loosen and take off the "hot" side of bat.,then the neg. side then as you lift the bat. you have to pull off the drain line on the far side, it stays in place, thats it!!. BB.

Most brake squeal is produced by vibration (resonance instability) of the brake components, especially the pads and discs (known as force-coupled excitation). This type of squeal should not negatively affect brake stopping performance. Simple techniques like adding chamfers to linings, greasing or gluing the contact between caliper and the pads (finger to backplate, piston to backplate), bonding insulators (damping material) to pad backplate, inclusion of a brake shim between the brake pad and back plate, etc. may help to reduce squeal. There is a product called "disc brake quite" that i use on the back of the pads when i do a brake job that absorbs the vibration.

Good luck, i hope this helps. Thanks for useing FixYa.

okay...these are general to Yamaha igniter systems...
so bike is in neutral...shows neutral, kill switch on...
Test each plug cap with a new spark plug...if one or more getting no spark....
Unhook the pickup coil harness and test the resistance (the P U coils located in left front crankcase cover with stator. If resistance tests out fine, ensure the connector is clean and connect.
Now test that both ignition coil packs primary and secondary resistances are within spec.
Verify the ignition coil packs are getting battery voltage to the primary terminal (often a red/white wire).
Ensure the igniter (the ignition black box) also called TCI is getting battery voltage on its supply.
Ensure all connectors clean to TCI.
The only other issue may be the interlocks are trying to shut down ignition....typically a black/white wire from the igniter goes to sidestand relay, tip over switch....both shut down ignition by grounding the control side of the TCI...could be they are partially grounding allowing minimal ignition.

Your describing a tire problem as these bikes are very hard on tires and if ridden hard can fail a new tire very quickly. If it has the orginal tires they are likly worn out as I'm on my third front tire since '05 and my 8th rear tire. I don't trust old tires as I've been in a number of tire related accidents. new tires are way cheaper than just stepping into an ambulance or walking in the door of an emergency room. I've been thereand done that and I'm still paying the bills since 04 to prove it. tires ( new ones) are cheap insureance to avoid accidents. I likeMetlzer and Michelin tires
the OE tires aren't even close to the quality of these aftermarket tires but they cost much more and last much longer also. Head bearings rust and can be damaged in accidents and in some cases are too loose or too tight. with the bike jacked up so the frount tire is of the ground turn the steering to see if it turns smoothly and doesn't (catch) in the middle. If it turns smoothly with no ( catch) also gab the forks at the bottom edge and pull front to back to feel any play other than turning side to side like it's supposed to. Anything other than smooth movement with little or no binding as misrouted cables and wiring can also cause troble. If smooth the tires are at fault and even and worn rear tire can be felt in the front most often at 25 MPH

hi
this model year is 94

Not sure what problem is but my 97 does the same thing it has a rattle or chatter at low throttle and deceleration. Did you ever figure out what the problem was?

You will need to do everyting else first. full tune and service, maybe clean the carbs, valve clearances.
Carb syncro will only be a benifit after this, and syncro only makes sure the carbs open the same with the same vacumn through each manifold, the biggest effect will be a smoother idle, it is not likely the cause of backfire.

to best fix the problem you need to replace the slave cylinder,
if you cant do it your self, then take it to a better shop,

Check your choke system first, fix any anomalies then if all OK check your carb systems including your air cleaner.
If those steps doesnot resolve your problem ask me again for other possibilities. Good luck

You got to take the chain case cover off and check the chain. Chould be broke or stretched.

Go to http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp and down load all the manuals you require.

1157 most folks put it at 1200 on account of it being easier to do so. it dont hurt it but i like going for the just lower side. it lets me be able to rev it at the stop lights while waiting for a green

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Yamaha Cars to model category. Nowhere gives a single wire wiring diagram and if you search 'fuse box wiring' you will get pages of fuse box diagrams. Here is your Service Manual set to the correct page. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/936686/Yamaha-Vmax-Vmx17c-2009.html?page=583#manual ..