20 Most Recent 2006 Yamaha V Star Classic - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Yes, more than likely the oil has been over filled. Try to drain and refill with the correct quantity.

It's quite possible that you need your valve clearances adjusted.

If you are serious about getting real power from the engine, Google motorcycle racing cams. There is an outfit in California, "Web Cam Racing", that is used by the pro circuit racers. 51.369.5144
951.369.51

Have you had your battery tested? You should have it hydro tested or do it yourself. Tester available at most auto parts places. You may have a buddy at a gas station that would allow you to test it. A good reading is 1200.

I say battery because because left over or not, the battery probably came with it and they never get better with age.

I think I'd be asking the dealer why you are still having trouble starting even after the work that he or she did. Although, with only 500 miles on it, it is still not broken in yet. Might be time for a road trip?

I'm graspiing at things to help you ... I presume the dealer assured all ignition parts and systems were in good condition? New spark plugs?

Have you inquired of the manufacturer via the Yamaha web site?

When this resolves, id appreciate a update. Please opst a comment to this post.

Thanks for using fixya.com

VSTAR 1300 HOLDS 3.38 US QTS WITHOUT FILTER CHANGE AND 3.59 US QTS WITH THE FILTER CHANGE.

YOU CAN ADJUST FLOATS WITHOUT SPECIAL TOOLS. ALL YOU NEED IS A FOOT LONG PIECE OF CLEAR TUBING, SIZED TO FIT THE BOWL DRAIN. SET FLOATS AS CLOSE TO WHAT THEY WERE WHEN YOU REPLACED IT. INSTALL THE BOWL AND PUT THE TUBE ON THE DRAIN. OPEN THE BOWL DRAIN SCREW WHILE HOLDING THE TUBE UP BESIDE THE CARB. WHEN YOU GET THE TUBE BESIDE THE CARB ASSY., THE GAS IN THE TUBE SHOWS YOU THE EXACT LEVEL OF FUEL IN THE BOWL. FROM THIS YOU CAN MAKE ANY ADJUSTMENTS NECESSARY FOR CORRECT LEVEL. THE LEVEL SHOULD BE RIGHT BELOW THE PLANE WHERE THE BOWL MEETS THE CARB BASE.

It sounds like you did a good job - but, did you adjust the float? You will use more gas now and at high RPM you may be running ouy of gas - Check floats specs and adjust

That is a fairly easy task.
Remove the speedo bezel, and disconnect the wires and the speedo cable.
Remove the rear seat, then remove the front seat.
Unbolt the gas tank, turn fuel off, disconnect fuel line, slide tank back then remove.
Unscrew speedo cable from speedo drive at front wheel axle.
Note routing of speedo cable, remove speedo cable, install new cable using same routing as old cable. You will probably have to spin the inner cable to get it to properly engage the drive mechanism at the bottom. If you install the bottom first, you can turn the cable at the top with your fingers until the bottom fully seats.
Give each fitting for the speedo cable a slight twist (1/8 of a turn past finger tight) with a pair of pliers so they don't come loose
Reinstall all remaining parts in reverse order of dis-assembly.

There is not one that I know of.

Replace the cable from the starter to the starter solenoid with a thicker cable.

Its seems like fuel starvation ....blow(compressed air) the main and primary jets of the carburator and recheck the float level.
Set the air-mixture screw too.
Standard procedure ..tighten it all the way in ....slowly making sure you go slow as not to damage the tip of the screw and then open it 2 and half turns plus or minus.
Hope this helps!

It s simple fix actually. You need to spend only little money to buy a light and fix it. You cant do it manually only mechanics can fix it carefully. Rate this!!

2006 and you think the coils bad? think again. thats the least likely suspect. check fuses and fuel. spray ether into the air intake while cranking to see if its fuel related. if it starts in ether then its a fuel issue.

AS you tighten the throttle housing, your putting the cable in a bind. Make sure it's routing is correct and watch everything very close when you snug it down, not to bind it. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

remove the bowels from the bottoms of the carbs

You have a vacumm hose loose look for small hose no connecter to anything - should solve it - I had a similar problem with a ZX9r the other day - same would run fine on choke not idle or start without it

Good Luck

Del

REPLACE THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER BEFORE YOU GO TEARING THE ENGINE APART, THEY ARE SELF ADJUSTING BUT THEY DO FOUL UP, (HAVE HAD THIS ISSUE WITH A SUZUKI AND A YAHMAHA, NEW TENSIONER FIXED THE NOISE) IT IS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE ENGINE AND FAIRLY EASY TO GET OUT.

Engine Air-cooled, SOHC, 4-valve, 75°, V-twin
Displacement 1,063cc
Bore and Stroke 95 x 75mm
Compression Ratio 8.3:1
Maximum Torque 8.7kg-m (63 ft-lb)@ 2,500 rpm
Fuel Delivery Mikuni BSR37 x 2
Ignition Digital TCI
Transmission 5-speed
Final Drive Shaft

Stock: 55-58 hp.(Yamaha claims 50-52) rear wheel

Exhaus Mod, mid cams & ignition kit: 72-74 hp. rear wheel

hope this helps.

Regards

Voodoo

You said when you trun off the gas valve the bikes engine seems to idle nice and when you turn it on its pumping more gas...well its natural for it to get gas as you turn it on, you may hve to adjust the float of the carburator/s, the float level seems to be wrong allowing more gas in the chamber thn required for optimum function.

Knight . (Yamaha seca XJ750 A 1981)

hi nl friday,

here is a trick i learned from a friend who is a great fan of V twins.

on cold starts he usually opens the drain plug to let the carb balancer / floater set. once a few drops comes out, open the choke then start the engine. right after pushing the choke back, twist the throttle to force the jet to spray out.

hope this will work for you.

regards,

voodoo